1FZ power steering pump replacement... (1 Viewer)

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lz1gpa said:
Hello guys! My PS pump is going for scrap soon and I have difficulties finding the replacement locally in East Europe. My engine is 1FZFE, 1994 and the OEM No of the pump is 44320-60182. On the market I can find only 44320-60170, which is for HDJ80. Do someone know if the pumps are compatible?
Click to expand...


Sorry, no. Not even close.
 
cruiserdan said:
I have supplied several power steering pumps to board members over the last few years but I do not recall any of them detailing the actual replacement.

Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.

I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:

Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.

I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.

The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.

The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......


D-

EDIT NOTE:

The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.

I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.
Click to expand...
Are the FZ steering pumps made by Denso, Aisin, or someone else?
 
I do not know. The housing doesn't have any manufacturer markings on it.
 
OGBeno said:
The pump is assembled by JTEKT.

The housing is manufactured by Toyoda Industries.
Click to expand...
Together, you two know everything...
 
Partsouq shows two different styles of "gasket" for the high pressure line banjo bolt.

9043016168​

9043016168.jpg


and

4432730030​

4432730030.jpg


I see obvious visual differences but does it matter which style to use? I ordered the top style, they seem to be brass?? Was that the correct selection? Its the style I used on my 88 pickup so I went with it.
 
Dark Knight said:
Partsouq shows two different styles of "gasket" for the high pressure line banjo bolt.

9043016168​

9043016168.jpg


and

4432730030​

4432730030.jpg


I see obvious visual differences but does it matter which style to use? I ordered the top style, they seem to be brass?? Was that the correct selection? Its the style I used on my 88 pickup so I went with it.
Click to expand...

Hey Batman,

Why not just go with what Toyota went through all the trouble... to create a specific part... to fit the purpose... for your 80 series Land Cruiser?

Or just go ballz deep and tell us how it works out.
 
They are both toyota part numbers and both listed for my vin number. That leads me to believe both can be correct. But, which is more correct is my question.
 
Dark Knight said:
Partsouq shows two different styles of "gasket" for the high pressure line banjo bolt.

9043016168​

9043016168.jpg


and

4432730030​

4432730030.jpg


I see obvious visual differences but does it matter which style to use? I ordered the top style, they seem to be brass?? Was that the correct selection? Its the style I used on my 88 pickup so I went with it.
Click to expand...
The reason it's easier is you can't drop one while holding onto the other. All paired sealing washers should be made this way. Just try to install these two on the fuel filter.

FWIW, the other kind is fine, too. I have a dozen sitting on my parts shelves. That now will never be used.
 
Ditto all above: go with the dual/paired crush washer (gasket).

One tip for @Dark Knight , it is single use and should be replaced every time the banjo bolt is loosened, otherwise you're likely to get a leak. So maybe order two while you're into it??
 
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