Builds 1FZ-FE TRD S/C Rebuild (2 Viewers)

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Did you have the head machined ?
 
I was waiting for someone to observe that. :) My machinist likes to set up the valve adjustment first prior to surfacing the head as he doesn’t want to touch the head after surfacing.
 
I made a decision to use an OEM style composite gasket for reliability as the purpose of my build is for stock longevity with some mild improvements that should improve low end and overall driveability. MLS gives you the advantage of different compression ratios. Decking the block and head is to have a perfectly flat surface for good sealing. MLS requires a certain type of surfacing to seal. I’ve personally yet to meet anyone that said they ran an aftermarket MLS and went 300k miles on it without a headgasket failure. Locally where I live the MLS failures on engines in general far exceed composite. Blocks with floating bores are especially susceptible. At least the 1fz isn’t. It’s just something I didn’t want to chance on this build. If I was building a race motor with frequent rebuilds I think it would be fun to try.

So far I've got 60K miles on my MLS with no issues or signs of an issue. I was able to compensate in the height loss of the machining operations with the gasket by ordering it to a prescribed thickness. With the length of this aluminum head, I think the shear forces on the gasket exceed what a composite gasket can handle in any kind of overheat situation. I don't intend to intentionally overheat it, but if it does happen, I think the MLS stands a better chance of surviving it, but that's all opinion.

Will take a good many years to get to 300K! Am hoping to get on board with @NLXTACY and run his turbo kit on mine once he has it CARB approval since I live in CA. Once I do that, will put the MLS under additional stress.
 
A little late on this update but, the valve adjusting shims came in and were delivered to the machine shop. In the meantime kids have become very interested in wrenching so I’ve been teaching and guiding the next generation.
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Got word from the machine shop that the valves have been set at .010 IN & .014 in. EX. Head was surfaced. Had to take off about 6-7 thousandths. Awaiting final clean and the bill.
 
Got word from the machine shop that the valves have been set at .010 IN & .014 in. EX. Head was surfaced. Had to take off about 6-7 thousandths. Awaiting final clean and the bill.

That has to be a world record for the longest time to do a valve job in automotive history! Glad to hear it's almost done.
 
That has to be a world record for the longest time to do a valve job in automotive history! Glad to hear it's almost done.

hmm, you know...I think it’s taken me less time to develop an entire turbo kit, make a prototype, have it destroyed along with the truck it was in, start a second prototype, test at SEMA garage, start production, and ship turbo orders all BEFORE this head job 🤔


😂🤣😜
 
This is why I’ve affectionately nicknamed it the turtle build. But, I’m trying to keep up with my thread.
 
The updates are good. We started rebuilds at basically the same time, I remember talking with you on the phone about our projects. I've got 65K+ miles on my rebuild and discovered the hard way that telling a shop to 'use good quality parts' is not good enough. I had my head re-done at a performance race shop and provided my own Toyota parts to use after the original head work failed in less than 60K miles. Talk about frustrating! The MLS gasket was really good though, no issues at all and I put a brand new one on when I redid the head. I was also glad I used the ARP head studs, was able to reuse them with no issues at all of course.
 
Long term update. It's been too long and it's time to bring the community up to speed. We're loving the rig and really enjoying it. We've put about 20k miles on it so far with many days on the trail and camping. Mostly trouble free. Thanks to the friends, family, and club members that helped get this 80 on the road I couldn't have done it without you. You know who you are and I'm grateful to each and every one of you. You know what I've been through the past few years and what I'm fighting. You guys have made it possible to keep the hobby. Hence the reason for the delay.

Engine sounds like that wonderful sewing machine the 1FZs are even with the aftermarket cams. I've had a few quirks I haven't been able to resolve. I started off with the green 12 hole injectors and was running about 10% lean on fuel trims. This may have been from the cams. I also had a shift problem. I ended up replacing the injectors with WRX and codes went away. The new oversized MAF fixed the trans shifting like it does on a Chevy truck. The problem was that about 4000 rpm it started running rough and would fall on its face. No codes. I had an EGR code later and turned out to be the modulator. I also bypassed the plenum. No EGR codes for awhile.

In an effort to fix the fueling issue I went back to stock injectors and a new stock MAF. Computer seemed to like that better. I ended up replacing the entire EGR system and bypassed the plenum afterl getting codes again. This computer is very sensitive. Not sure what else I can do here but was trying to keep cylinder head temps down. Right now I've put everything stock to try to baseline and rule out codes. I get a weird lean code PO171 if I run 55mph for awhile and get an EGR code PO401. For some reason at that RPM the fuel trims go crazy. I could try the oversize MAF again.

I had Jon Bond redo the supercharger and am itching to install but really want the bugs worked out. Leaning towards meth injection for the octane benefits. Starting to wonder if these cams are not going to work out or I need an adjustable cam gear I can't find or they'll be really happy with the S/C. I don't have the power I should. Need to go back and verify they are in phase.

Been running Joe Gibbs 10W-30 Hot Rod oil and oil consumption has been good. Getting down to 8mpg on the trail and 11-13 on the hwy.
 
Long term update. It's been too long and it's time to bring the community up to speed. We're loving the rig and really enjoying it. We've put about 20k miles on it so far with many days on the trail and camping. Mostly trouble free. Thanks to the friends, family, and club members that helped get this 80 on the road I couldn't have done it without you. You know who you are and I'm grateful to each and every one of you. You know what I've been through the past few years and what I'm fighting. You guys have made it possible to keep the hobby. Hence the reason for the delay.

Engine sounds like that wonderful sewing machine the 1FZs are even with the aftermarket cams. I've had a few quirks I haven't been able to resolve. I started off with the green 12 hole injectors and was running about 10% lean on fuel trims. This may have been from the cams. I also had a shift problem. I ended up replacing the injectors with WRX and codes went away. The new oversized MAF fixed the trans shifting like it does on a Chevy truck. The problem was that about 4000 rpm it started running rough and would fall on its face. No codes. I had an EGR code later and turned out to be the modulator. I also bypassed the plenum. No EGR codes for awhile.

In an effort to fix the fueling issue I went back to stock injectors and a new stock MAF. Computer seemed to like that better. I ended up replacing the entire EGR system and bypassed the plenum afterl getting codes again. This computer is very sensitive. Not sure what else I can do here but was trying to keep cylinder head temps down. Right now I've put everything stock to try to baseline and rule out codes. I get a weird lean code PO171 if I run 55mph for awhile and get an EGR code PO401. For some reason at that RPM the fuel trims go crazy. I could try the oversize MAF again.

I had Jon Bond redo the supercharger and am itching to install but really want the bugs worked out. Leaning towards meth injection for the octane benefits. Starting to wonder if these cams are not going to work out or I need an adjustable cam gear I can't find or they'll be really happy with the S/C. I don't have the power I should. Need to go back and verify they are in phase.

Been running Joe Gibbs 10W-30 Hot Rod oil and oil consumption has been good. Getting down to 8mpg on the trail and 11-13 on the hwy.

Good update. I've got about 120K on my rebuild now. Having built it all stock, I haven't had any issues to deal with related to fueling, until recently, and have never seen anything happen at any specific speed(s). I did have an EGR 0401 not too long after the rebuild and I replaced all the solenoids under the intake manifold with new OEM solenoids. No EGR issues since then. I'll post an update on mine, been having a misfire and rough idle lately.
 
Spoke with Schneider and they are running these cams in Dubai and some FJ40s with good results so need to double check I'm not off a tooth or something.
 
Update: pretty sure I have a vacuum leak causing all the issues that needs to be sorted out first. Wish I had a smoke machine!
 
Update: pretty sure I have a vacuum leak causing all the issues that needs to be sorted out first. Wish I had a smoke machine!

Do you have a oxy/acetylene setup?

-If so, the ace alone out the torch smooths stumbling idles, might show if your vacuum is the issue.
 
Unfortunately not. I did notice a new sound when I hit the brakes when it's cold recently. It's not consistent but I'm starting to wonder if the issue is in the brake booster or somewhere between it and the motor.
 
Went through the FSM brake booster test and nothing jumped out at me except on the last one I heard a hissing sound that lasted a couple of seconds.
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Status?
 
So, I went through the brake booster test. I also pulled vacuum on the booster. I followed up by checking vacuum with the engine running. Fuel trims were no different with it connected and disconnected. Notice crazy fuel trims at 1800 rpm with no load. Same trims fully warmed up. EGR insufficient flow and lean codes present. I ran brake cleaner up and down the intake, the plenum, the egr, and vacuum hoses. No vacuum leak noted.
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