Builds 1FZ-FE TRD S/C Rebuild

beno

Gihee Arakawa
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Can you discuss why you didn’t go with OEM internals (ART/Taiho)?

You work for Toyota. Figured you would be using company suppliers for a build like this...

Looks incredible. Great work.
 
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Thanks for the compliment. I’ve dreamed about working for Toyota but never have.

As far as parts go, I generally try to stick with OEM, OEM brands or Japan brands. The choices made on this motor go to the fact I have immense respect for my machinists knowledge base and experience as well as my Isuzu experience.
 

beno

Gihee Arakawa
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Thanks for the compliment. I’ve dreamed about working for Toyota but never have.

As far as parts go, I generally try to stick with OEM, OEM brands or Japan brands. The choices made on this motor go to the fact I have immense respect for my machinists knowledge base and experience as well as my Isuzu experience.
Sorry. My bad. Thought you worked for Toyota.

Nonetheless, great build.
 

ajax1

 
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@thetoyotaman i have done some headgaskets and was taught to use hylomar on the block lightly after cleaning the top of the block off followed by Toyota gasket. Never had a issue that I’m aware of. I am currently building a engine right now and will do yota gasket with hylomar. Nice build looking good
 

ajax1

 
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Nope just the block , to fill in any imperfections of the block then gasket, I used the tube too not the spray. That’s how I was taught by a very good cruiser builder.
 
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Thanks for your take on this. I’ve done copper coat in days gone by tinkering on 2Fs without machine work and might like the hylomar if I wasn’t doing any machine work on this motor. But, I’ve looked into this and for my purposes am going with a decked head and block with the updated OEM style headgasket. These are the conclusions I’ve come to:

The OEM gasket already has a surface treatment on it. They are grey and sticky to the touch right out of the package.
Excerpt from: WARNING ON THE USE OF HYLOMAR! | Southside Cylinder Heads, Engine Reconditioning Australia

6262D559-BB95-49B3-8FD3-6D8C5DC2E708.jpeg
 
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@thetoyotaman i have done some headgaskets and was taught to use hylomar on the block lightly after cleaning the top of the block off followed by Toyota gasket. Never had a issue that I’m aware of. I am currently building a engine right now and will do yota gasket with hylomar. Nice build looking good
Hylomar has been approved for OEM headgaskets in the past. However, I’d like to know if is approved by Toyota.
 

ajax1

 
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Interesting read I’ve done only a handful of engine head gaskets all with Toyota gaskets, never saw issue. I think you will be fine either way. As far as hylomar working and doing what it says , if it’s approved for turbines which I am licensed to work on and know the rigors of getting something approved in aviation I’m sure it works like they say
 

ajax1

 
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I doubt Toyota approves anything other then there gasket, I have no idea. I think you will be fine either way. If you use it it just takes a little and I only used it on the block.
 

ewillis

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Thanks for the compliment. I’ve dreamed about working for Toyota but never have.

As far as parts go, I generally try to stick with OEM, OEM brands or Japan brands. The choices made on this motor go to the fact I have immense respect for my machinists knowledge base and experience as well as my Isuzu experience.
Any thoughts on OEM gasket vs Cometic MLS? With a decked block, I thought the MLS gasket might be advantageous.
 
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I made a decision to use an OEM style composite gasket for reliability as the purpose of my build is for stock longevity with some mild improvements that should improve low end and overall driveability. MLS gives you the advantage of different compression ratios. Decking the block and head is to have a perfectly flat surface for good sealing. MLS requires a certain type of surfacing to seal. I’ve personally yet to meet anyone that said they ran an aftermarket MLS and went 300k miles on it without a headgasket failure. Locally where I live the MLS failures on engines in general far exceed composite. Blocks with floating bores are especially susceptible. At least the 1fz isn’t. It’s just something I didn’t want to chance on this build. If I was building a race motor with frequent rebuilds I think it would be fun to try.
 
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