Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter sbman
- Start date
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Kajun
SILVER Star
@sbman and @Pin_Head thanks for the clarification on the pushrod vs OHC.
I haven't had to crack my engine open for anything yet, but am mentally preparing myself for the effort and thinking about buying part$ now. When I do it I want to do it right. This is as concise and detailed of a blueprint as you can get.
I haven't had to crack my engine open for anything yet, but am mentally preparing myself for the effort and thinking about buying part$ now. When I do it I want to do it right. This is as concise and detailed of a blueprint as you can get.
I used HDS for my HG job (search my posts) and have a similarly favorable report, except the way I did it it was very reasonable, IMO.
New part number for the engine overhaul gasket kit: 04111-66036.
This kit includes almost all of the parts above in it.
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sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #247
1000+ miles and have done the first oil/filter change. Running smooth and strong. Not sure why people complain about the power so much, seems OK to me. More is always nicer, but it's adequate, can keep up with traffic on the freeway up steep hills just fine. The auto trans is still terrible but it's working as it should, can't wait to get rid of it. Switched it to thicker oil 15W40 Rotella. Cooling is marginal, but seems to be performing within stock parameters. Getting 14 mpg mixed city/highway. Looks like it should be capable of up to 17 or so on freeway cruises. Have done about 70 miles of forest fire service roads, does a great job. I'm still all stock: tires, weight and suspension.
There is always at least one thing after an engine rebuild. Glad you discovered and fixed yours. 
Those three upper intake manifold bolts frustrated me as well, but I solved the problem with a parts snatcher.
Mine holds it firm enough that I can turn it down to finger tight, and then torque it later with a chain of wobble extensions.
Those three upper intake manifold bolts frustrated me as well, but I solved the problem with a parts snatcher.
Mine holds it firm enough that I can turn it down to finger tight, and then torque it later with a chain of wobble extensions.
Dan C
Bonafide Jolly Turkaconis Freak
I'm putting this thread in my toolbox. Awesome job! 
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #250
With 2500 miles on the rebuild, all is well. First 1,000 miles used 1/2 quart of oil while the rings seated. Changed at that time and refreshed with new oil/filter. 1500 miles later and no measurable oil loss, so ring break-in is a complete success. No engine oil or coolant leaks. A slight weep from P/S return line that needs to be replaced.
Averaging 14.6 mpg combined city/highway, good power delivery and great sounding/feeling engine, couldn't be happier.
Averaging 14.6 mpg combined city/highway, good power delivery and great sounding/feeling engine, couldn't be happier.
Sweet!
Might we ask what the entire thing cost you in terms of both time and money? We've wanted a diesel conversion for some time, but reading this thread has really given us an appreciation for this over-engineered, very-reliable engine.
What's the going rate for a complete rebuild with all new parts and shop assembled
Hornd
SILVER Star
There is always at least one thing after an engine rebuild. Glad you discovered and fixed yours.
Those three upper intake manifold bolts frustrated me as well, but I solved the problem with a parts snatcher.
Mine holds it firm enough that I can turn it down to finger tight, and then torque it later with a chain of wobble extensions.View attachment 1131540
Wrap a short piece of electrical tape to hold bolt in long Extension then just pull socket off. Works great. Always use a new gasket as they are metal.
I also dipped my injector O-rings in gas per the instructions I seen on here. Worked great. Lube that evaporates.
Used Dielectric on the wiring connector.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #255
Money is easier to quote, I have receipts for everything. Total cost for the pure engine portion of the rebuid was $4100 for parts and machine work. I also spent $1000 on a complete A/C system replacement. About $500 on all hoses, water pump, all vacuum lines, paint cleaning supplies, etc.... Then another $300 on things like new engine mounts and an alternator upgrade. Time wise, I easily put 200 hours of labor into it, not counting all the research I did here and elsewhere or the trips to stores for parts/machine shop, etc...
A basic way of estimating shop hours/cost is to use the parts cost as an estimate of the labor cost. With $4100 in parts, that would be $4100 in labor, aprox $8K for the removal, rebuild and reinstall, not counting the A/C work, alternator upgrade, or all the OCD stuff I did like extra painting time and parts cleaning, FSM procedure checks on every component under the hood, etc... Look at @NLXTACY rebuild thread to find out what an OCD rebuild costs at a shop! A basic rebuild at a shop is going to be the bare minimum unless you find a specialty shop and open your wallet up wide.
The end result is one of the smoothest running engines I've ever owned. Between the design of the inline 6 and it's inherent balance advantages and the balancing work we did on pistons/rods/etc... it's just really smooth. You can't feel the engine in the body work at all, and even with your hand on the transfer case lever which is bolted directly to the drivetrain, you can barely feel it running.
I would love to have a diesel too, but at the same time, I wanted to get this on the road and usable within a reasonable timeframe and budget. I think I would have spent double on parts easily and had to deal with CA smog and easily tripled the labor time to get it done. It would be cool, but it's just not reasonable for me at this time. Maybe another build where I don't need a family sized vehicle to actually use within a fixed time frame I can do all that.
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What kind of oil did you break in with and plan on using long run?
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #257
I used NAPA brand 10W30 dinosaur oil for break in, ran it for 1000 miles. Switched to Rotella 15W40 diesel oil @ the 1000 mile mark. Not sure what I will run long term, some kind of synthetic, probably a diesel formulation similar to the Rotella I've got in there now. I like the higher oil pressure I get with the 15W40, especially in the warm climate I live in, any 5W stuff is too thin and a compromise the manufacturers are forced into by the MPG standards.
So $4000 for a complete rebuild not bad I just have to pull it and put it back
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #259
Well, you also have to tear down the engine and re-assemble it. Plan for 500-1000 more for the machine shop to do the tear down and re-assembly if you aren't into that. For myself I wanted to double check everything and know exactly what went into the motor. I was kinda OCD about it, rejecting bearings that i didn't like the look of, returning aftermarket pistons because i didn't like the quality of the machine work on them and their point of origin (ended up using OEM pistons), not being satisfied with bearing clearances and making them redo it, etc...
He said disassemble reassembly ARP head studs new everything painted ready to put back in $4000
