Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy (1 Viewer)

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This has been fun to watch and read, well done. !
 
Final pic for the rebuild. Installed, test driven, and passed CA smog. Now I can get some license plates.

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During the first test drive, it was really underpowered and ran with a lot of 'hesitation'. I figured the timing was off, when I did the timing adjustment for the initial drive, I did it quickly with the jumper in the diag port, but the idle was high. Turns out it was retarded by 25 degrees, so it ran pretty poorly. Went through the FSM procedure a couple of times and got it set properly and it drives great. Decent power, really smooth, you can't feel it running at all, barely can feel it idling if you put your hand on it. All the balancing and injector stuff payed off.

What went into this?

Machine shop $1200 (approx):
  • Dissasemble short block for me (I couldn't get crank pulley off)
  • Clean all parts in hot tank
  • Line bore
  • Deck block
  • Bore 0.5mm over
  • Polish crank
  • Install all new soft plugs
  • Resize rods both ends
  • Pressure test head
  • Valve job
  • Balance rotating assembly
  • Adjust valves on bench
  • Check all block and head dimensions and surfaces
Parts $4500 (approx):
  • OEM Pistons 0.5mm over (0.020")
  • Aftermarket japanese main, rod and thrust bearings
  • Hastings rings
  • @landtank oil pump bushing
  • OEM oil pump internals
  • Aftermarket japanese timing chain and gears
  • All OEM gaskets, including ones not in master kit
  • Cometic custom thickness MLS head gasket
  • ARP head studs
  • OEM main bolts
  • Clean and flow injectors
  • Replace warped head with used
  • All new OEM valves
  • Many new OEM hoses
  • Gates or the best I could find hoses for all others (every piece of rubber attached to engine was replaced)
  • OEM engine mounts
  • OEM radiator cap
  • OEM cap and rotor
  • Denso Spark plugs
  • Denso Spark plug wires
  • Ideal hose clamps in most places, breeze in others
  • Green stripe heater hose all the way to rear heater
  • Pesky Heater Hose silicon hose kit
  • OEM thermostat
  • Gates 'OEM' belts
  • Denso water pump
In addition I also did some 'while I was in there' and those cost additional to the above.

Full A/C overhaul with new Denso compressor, expansion valve, dryer, o-rings, etc...
Flush/test all cooling system components
Photoman 150 amp alternator bracket
New Denso 150 amp alternator
New gates power steering hoses
New trans cooler hoses

It's been a long process and I easily put 200 hours into the job. It is a rewarding payoff to climb to the top of the first mountain on a motor with 100 miles on it though. :) Drove up to the top of Black mountain in Ramona from Pamo valley. Just 10 miles from the house.

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I can see what the big deal is with these things. Drives up a mountain side like it isn't there. The off road handling is by far the best I've driven. Even washboard is handled with ease, and the truck doesn't sound like it's falling apart going over it. I'm sure it will only get better as I freshen the rest of the running gear!
 
This is a great thread. You will certainly enjoy your truck every time you get in it knowing you put all that time into it.
 
Great Job- I wish I had the knowledge to do what you've done. Big Kudos to you-nice job!

Just for curiosity's sake- What engine temps are you running? Just curious how a freshly rebuilt engine compares with say, 188K engine...
 
Beautiful work sbman!!!

I think you're missing a ground wire at the back right of the head that goes to the firewall at a bolt that holds the wiring harness.

Here's a before pic of mine:
View attachment 1123762

Thank you for the picture. I did attach that wire to the firewall but I was not sure which bolt it went with. I will move that one up.
 
Great Job- I wish I had the knowledge to do what you've done. Big Kudos to you-nice job!

Just for curiosity's sake- What engine temps are you running? Just curious how a freshly rebuilt engine compares with say, 188K engine...

So far I am seeing 190 to 200 water temp per the obd reader. Usually engines run a bit warm during break in until things have seated there is some extra friction as the rings seat in.

I did notice the under hood temps really climb at low speeds and my fan does not seem to do much about it.

The floors get pretty warm and there is a good leak around the steering shaft I am going to have to fix.
 
Cool...thanks! Maybe a fan clutch rebuild is in order as well?
 
I am planning to do an electric fan setup. I want to gather some data with the stock setup first so I can compare the difference. A lot of people seem to distrust electric accessories, but done correctly they can easily outlast a mechanical system. An electric fan can deliver good performance at low RPMs and at idle and can be optimized to work best when you need it most, but a mechanically driven fan has to make a lot of compromises.
 
Great job, and thanks for keeping us posted on your progress and end product. Enjoy!
 
My only concern with the electric fans is how they react in deep water crossings.
Should one build in an override switch to protect them? In other words switch them off for river crossings.
 

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