Build 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy

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sbman said:
I am planning to do an electric fan setup. I want to gather some data with the stock setup first so I can compare the difference. A lot of people seem to distrust electric accessories, but done correctly they can easily outlast a mechanical system. An electric fan can deliver good performance at low RPMs and at idle and can be optimized to work best when you need it most, but a mechanically driven fan has to make a lot of compromises.
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Sounds like a plan- anything that keeps the motor cool is OK in my book!
 
westco48 said:
Did you get your machining done in the North County?..if so where and do you recommend them?
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Yes, it was in Escondido. HDS Machine. I took it over there last weekend and showed it to them running. The guys are great and their work is top notch. It isn't cheap, but from what I can tell it's pretty much the best. The shop includes some really nice Sunon equipment and knowledgeable guys. They are also a carquest so I got some parts from them as well.
 
So unfortunately found an issue today. #6 injector is leaking at the fuel rail side and getting worse. I must have torn the o-ring putting it on or something. Searching the threads, seems like this is a fairly common thing to occur on re-assembly. 30 miles away from my tools and it isn't safe to drive. :( Took it to a shop I've had do one other thing to see if they would pull the manifold and fix it for me since I'd rather not have to pay to have it towed home. The mechanic was looking at it, asked who did the work on the motor, and when I told him I had done it myself, he started pointing out really basic things that had nothing to do with the problem that I 'probably didn't do right'. The timing probably isn't set right, probably didn't use oil on the o-rings, he won't work on it because 'someone' has already worked on it. What an ass. I'd rather give my money to a tow truck driver than someone that acts like that.
 
I know that sucks, but it is civil liability driving it. Even way back when I was working at a 10 bay department store shop, the one thing we never touched was fuel systems. If you did, some people would go home, torch their car and then sue the shop. If we noticed a fuel leak, we pushed the car out of the shop, wrote up the leak, had 3 people sign it and tell the customer to have it towed out of the lot.
 
On closer inspection it looks like the #6 injector may have been damaged during engine install. There is a heater pipe right above the injector on the firewall that may have pushed into it and cracked the injector body while the engine was being moved into place. The upper manifold definitely has to come off for repair.
 
I think I only know of one person that has changed the injectors without removing the upper intake. It was lilevo. He did a write up on it here on mud and said his small hands helped. lol.
 
scottryana said:
I think I only know of one person that has changed the injectors without removing the upper intake. It was lilevo. He did a write up on it here on mud and said his small hands helped. lol.
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I did it. it can be done if you're resourceful.
 
Honestly, I don't even want to attempt it that way. Removing the upper intake isn't easy, it's only three bolts that are really difficult. If I didn't have a cracked rib that I hurt putting the engine IN, I would have had the thing out tonight. As it is, it may just have to sit for a few weeks until I'm not in so much pain. I just can't crawl around down there anymore right now.
 
Hang in there bud, it's gonna work out. Get well soon!
 
After the fantastic detail pics and all the knowledge learned and taught about this very detailed rebuild, I am honestly sorry about such an annoying detail coming back to haunt you. Hopefully the injector is a quick fix, and doesn't affect the balance of the other 5!!
I was a little concerned about the injector orings and insulators when I did the head gasket, I used dielectric (love that stuff!!!) to keep the orings in place when I reinstalled the rail. I used the technique to pull the plenum in the engine bay outlined in the infamous head gasket DVD, so the harness does not need to be completely removed. There should be no reason to replace the throttle body or plenum gaskets with such little drive time on them, just rip it apart and stuff crap back in there and quit treating this 80 so nice!!!!! Time to start abusing her!!!:steer::cheers:;)
 
Like @blkprj80 I too have removed the fuel rail and reinstalled it without removing the upper intake. My #6 injector did the same thing as yours where it was leaking out all over the place. I tore the O ring on the engine side while reinstalling the first time. It took me about 4 hours to do IIRC and was a pain, but much better than removing the upper intake.
 
I got it tonight. buddy came over and helped me get the three rear bolts on the upper manifold out from under the truck with long extensions. Found a torn o-ring on #6 injector @fuelrail. checked them all and found #1 also pinched but not yet leaking. Replaced all with new OEM and a good dose of sil-glyde to make sure they slide right in. Double checked them all. Can't stress how easy it is to damage the o-rings, that's a lesson learned. Should finish up re-assembly tommorow when my buddy comes back to fish those three stupid bolts back in.
 
As a note for anyone needing to pull an injector. I basically followed the FSM, but I did NOT pull the EGR. I left it in place and removed it's studs. I then gave it a slight push to get it out of the way enough to tilt the outside edge of the manifold up and out. The EGR really looked like the difficult part to me and you can skip it. I left the throttle body and all cables attached and just pushed it up and over the head a bit to get clearance undeneath for removing the fuel rail. Was only about 30 minutes of work to do it, but you do need to use long extensions to get the rear three nuts/bolts off the manifold.
 
For more tech, here is a list of all OEM gaskets/o-rings I had to order for this rebuild:

1 - 90311-99009 Seal, Type T OIL
1 - 96761-24042 Ring, O
1 - 96721-24022 Ring, O
1 - 90099-14118 Ring, O
1 - 90311-38020 Seal, Type T OIL
2 - 15785-66010 Gasket, OIL
1 - 15188-66020 Gasket, OIL
1 - 25627-66010 Gasket, Ex.
1 - 90430-27001 Gasket
1 - 16119-66020 Gasket, Th
1 - 44327-30030 Gasket, PR

1 - 04111-66035 GASKET KIT

I didn't keep track of which is which. I know I had one extra o-ring because I thought it wasn't included and ordered it when I wasn't sure it was in there. I don't remember which part number it was though. It was an o-ring that fits into a slot on the timing cover if I remember correctly. The o-ring looks like it won't fit, but it does. I had a number of things left over in the gasket kit, I did not take every single sub assembly apart.
 
Great to hear you solved the injector issue. I have a question to the finish of the build and startup. Did you pre circulate oil through the pump and passages by turning the engine over via the dizzy input? I did this on an engine once with a spare dizzy shaft and a drill. It allowed me to verify that the pump, pickup and passages were all working plus it did a fair job of pre-lubing the system. Just wondering.
What was your startup/breaking in proceedure? Did you let it warm up to full temp before driving? i.e. Did you ease into it or just jump on it?
 
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