1FZ-FE Engine Rebuild Parts List (2 Viewers)

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Best spot I could find to pose, but doubt an easily answerable question.

Noted discrepancies between:
Start to 10/97 US
11/97 to 12/97 US
1/98 to 7/2007 Non-US

Of interest to me are the differences between the early US and late non-US:

Block
Head
Piston
Cams
Valves

The block is irrelevant....I think, since crankshaft, rods, and pistons are the same.

What's the difference between the other, early US and late non-US components?

Cut and paste of "list":

'98-'07 non us

1FZ block 11401-69805
1FZ Head 11101-69155
1FZ OS IntValve (.03) 11132-65030
1FZ OS ExhHavle (.03) 11136-66010
1FZ OS Piston (1.0) 13015-66021
1FZ Crankshaft 13411-66020
1FZ Camsgaft 1 13501-66030
1FZ Camshaft 2 13502-66020

'95-'97 US
1FZ block 11401-69535
[11401-69536 (11/97-12/97)]
1FZ Head 11101-69106
1FZ OS IntValve 13711-66030
1FZ OS ExhValve 13715-66030
1FZ OS Piston (1.0) 13015-66021
1FZ Crankshaft 13401-66020
1FZ Camshaft 1 13501-66020
1FZ Camshaft 2 13501-66010


Main difference is that the later 1FZ's became direct-ignition in some markets. Hence the difference.

The block number you are referencing does not come with any internals. Just a massive bare hunk of metal. The short block that is "loaded" would be 11400-66041.

Also, the old guy out west or myself cannot get any of the DI 1FZ-FE parts. All unobtanium for us. Akella or Japan4x4 would be a source for those components.
 
Ahhh....forgot all about direct injection.

Have no way to determine what and where, but the part number for the head in question is 11101-69096 (6/95-11/97 DIY'd), non-US, so my mistake and huge waste of time for not interpreting correctly.
 
Gotta love hard rods....

image.jpg


And pistons....

image.jpg
 
I figured since this document might get lost in another thread that I would make it's own thread.

I created this today for another thread.

Figured it might be of use to people contemplating a full long block rebuild of a 1FZ-FE North American market petrol engine.

If there are any questions, feel free to post up or contact me.

Regards.
-onur

Awesome!!! Thanks for sharing!
 
Sub'd. I need to keep this one around.

If I missed this comment I apologize. Can you use the 105 series (direct injection) head on the non DI 1fz?
 
Gotta love hard rods....

View attachment 903991

And pistons....

View attachment 903992
Are these forged pistons and rods? For my 3rz 98 Tacoma build this was an absolute must I wondered why more 1FZ engine build posts didn't include discussion of forged components especially with the availability of Joey Turbo.

Currently with 302k and excellent compression everything is running fine but I'm preparing myself for when it comes time to build the most awesome engine I can.

It's been 6 years since this post how's your 1fz doing and what would you do again or different?

Thanks :beer:
 
Are these forged pistons and rods? For my 3rz 98 Tacoma build this was an absolute must I wondered why more 1FZ engine build posts didn't include discussion of forged components especially with the availability of Joey Turbo.

Currently with 302k and excellent compression everything is running fine but I'm preparing myself for when it comes time to build the most awesome engine I can.

It's been 6 years since this post how's your 1fz doing and what would you do again or different?

Thanks :beer:
Some guys like @scottryana have built the blocks with forged internals.
Have you seen the size of 1fz internals? They're pretty monstrous compared to most and should be fine with low boost applications. If we were running 15+psi i'd worry but i think stock is fine for 7psi.
 
The size of the 1FZ internals are basically somewhere between a gas and a heavy duty diesel.

For example the wrist pins on a Chevy LS engine are 0.927" while the 1FZ is 1.024"
Big end on the LS 2.100" the 1FZ is 2.384"
Crank bearings are massive the crank itself weighs something like 88lbs.

I have been pushing a completely bone stock 1FZ (No studs, no MLS head gasket, stock internals, etc) on 15+psi of boost for 6 years.


Are these forged pistons and rods? For my 3rz 98 Tacoma build this was an absolute must I wondered why more 1FZ engine build posts didn't include discussion of forged components especially with the availability of Joey Turbo.

Currently with 302k and excellent compression everything is running fine but I'm preparing myself for when it comes time to build the most awesome engine I can.

It's been 6 years since this post how's your 1fz doing and what would you do again or different?

Thanks :beer:
 
The size of the 1FZ internals are basically somewhere between a gas and a heavy duty diesel.

For example the wrist pins on a Chevy LS engine are 0.927" while the 1FZ is 1.024"
Big end on the LS 2.100" the 1FZ is 2.384"
Crank bearings are massive the crank itself weighs something like 88lbs.

I have been pushing a completely bone stock 1FZ (No studs, no MLS head gasket, stock internals, etc) on 15+psi of boost for 6 years.

my bad for thinking you had built your block. I just recalled you being a big fan of the stock internals at the same time.
 
I have two 80's ;)

my bad for thinking you had built your block. I just recalled you being a big fan of the stock internals at the same time.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I get the impression by reading this that if I can find a supercharger or end up going with Joey's Turbo bone stock is just fine.

Really enjoying mud really enjoy learning all about the 1FZ and the 80 series.

There's a crazy question with 300K and killer compression if I find a supercharger should I just throw it on? Roll the dice :hillbilly:
 
At 300k I would do a new head gasket and new head bolts. There was a head gasket redesign. You could be just fine but it is a crap shoot. It really depends how you think of your 80. Is it a toy or is it something that has to be completely reliable?

Thanks for the replies.

I get the impression by reading this that if I can find a supercharger or end up going with Joey's Turbo bone stock is just fine.

Really enjoying mud really enjoy learning all about the 1FZ and the 80 series.

There's a crazy question with 300K and killer compression if I find a supercharger should I just throw it on? Roll the dice :hillbilly:
 
At 300k I would do a new head gasket and new head bolts. There was a head gasket redesign. You could be just fine but it is a crap shoot. It really depends how you think of your 80. Is it a toy or is it something that has to be completely reliable?
Recent engine/vehicle post purchase preventive maintenance and engine evaluation consisted of

Compression check, Valvecheck, valve cover baffle cleaning (chased down the oil in intake due to spark tube seals), new spark plug seals to solve oil in intake, cleaning of throttle body and intake, sent out injectors for balance/clean (glad I did they were trashed), complete cooling system refresh everything brand new, every hose in the truck's been changed, fuel filter fuel pump, every gasket I touched is new, full tune-up plugs cap rotor wires, pcv, all vacuum hoses EGR and EVAP system (under intake) factory service manual tested or replaced, air filter, power steering flush back to correct ATF, fix oil leaks crank seal, oil pump gasket, distributor o-ring, new blue fan clutch, fan, belts.

I do all the work myself and enjoy it immensely.

Basically seeing no combustion gases after testing my coolant and having killer compression I decided to roll the dice not knowing the previous history of the vehicle or what work has been done and not pull the head and change the head gasket for good measure. I bought this beauty with 298000 miles.

I noticed aftermarket gasket maker (sloppy excess and gray) material on both oil pans and half moon camshaft discs. the gasket maker look hard and very old so I have no idea when the last time somebody was in there.

I decided to go with the if it's not broke don't fix it attitude and enjoy the truck. I do want it to be very reliable for family trips.

Ifand when I have to do a head gasket is the popular consensus just to go to the brand new Factory Short block or rebuild the low end?

I've also considered looking for a factory new long block, I waited forever to get this truck and just wanted to be awesome.
 
The size of the 1FZ internals are basically somewhere between a gas and a heavy duty diesel.

For example the wrist pins on a Chevy LS engine are 0.927" while the 1FZ is 1.024"
Big end on the LS 2.100" the 1FZ is 2.384"
Crank bearings are massive the crank itself weighs something like 88lbs.

I have been pushing a completely bone stock 1FZ (No studs, no MLS head gasket, stock internals, etc) on 15+psi of boost for 6 years.
How many miles were on the engine when you turbo'd? Had it been rebuilt? How many miles now?

6 years is one of the longest term turbo'd 1fzs I think we have on here.
 
I had 120,000 miles on it when I turbo'd it. I did not rebuild it, I simply did a headgasket. Stock OEM head gasket, and stock head bolts. (At the time I was not going to turbo it.) I now have 177,000 miles on the truck.

We finished the Turbo install July 2013 first on stock ECU and then added a stand-alone in Feb 2014. I have run between 15-19psi since then. So I guess 6.5 years.

There were probably a couple Safari setups prior to mine and I am sure a couple homemade setups, but I don't really know. I do know that there was no one with any kind of first hand knowledge back in 2012 and we had to do a lot of learning. But that is what makes me very comfortable with how I spec'd out @NLXTACY Witsend turbo kit.


image-1532510973-jpg.780142





How many miles were on the engine when you turbo'd? Had it been rebuilt? How many miles now?

6 years is one of the longest term turbo'd 1fzs I think we have on here.
 
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