1FZ FE Cylinder Head bolts/studs - ARP kit that works great.

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Mar 4, 2014
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Tucson, AZ
I had the head rebuilt on my 93 FZJ80 and decided to upgrade the head bolts to studs. I researched and found that others had successfully used the ARP Toyota Supra Head stud kit part #203-4205.

They worked out great for me. Seems like a worthwhile upgrade from stock and cheaper than Toyota bolts when purchase from Lightning Motorsports http://lightningmotorsports.com/arp/arp-head-stud/bolt-kits/2034205/i-61533.aspx
 
I thought we all decided that the Opel kit was better.
 
Only history can tell whether torque to spec or torque to yield lasts longer on a refreshed head gasket.
 
I see the Opel kit is bolts not studs. I went with studs for the better seal and better torque load.
 
Opel was slightly longer studs - closer to the original studs.
 
Would someone explain why studs are better than bolts? If so then why would toyota use bolts?
 
I used the supra studs last week with no issues. Like MS-75 said there is plenty of thread engagement in the block and with the nut on.
 
Good explanation here http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/hardware/head-stud-bolts

They can handle higher pressures and create a better seal. They sure felt better when I torqued them.
After reading the link you suggested I still plan to use bolts when I reintstall my head after HG replacement because Toyota felt they were ideal for this rather low performance engine and I think setting the head on the block which is still in the frame would be a bitch.
 
You put the head on then install the studs. Just as if you were using bolts. I figured it was cheaper then new bolts even though mine were in spec. I figured if I ever rebuild it I would save myself some $$ in the future.

Also, I chased my "bolt holes", and when installing the studs I got 3 holes with a fair amount of tension which I had to thread the studs down with a Allen wrench.

I think this would throw off your TTY bolts. So either way make sure you clean the threads out good.

I cleaned mine with a tap and brake cleaner, q tips and alcohol with a shop vac.
 
I think either one works well. Don't think it matters unless your boosting a fair amount according to what I read here.

Just make sure to thoroughly chase and clean your threads. I thinks that's the major thing in the reinstallation of either choices.
 
After reading the link you suggested I still plan to use bolts when I reintstall my head after HG replacement because Toyota felt they were ideal for this rather low performance engine and I think setting the head on the block which is still in the frame would be a bitch.

When using studs as opposed to bolts you assemble the head to the block in the same manner. You can't go wrong with either IMHO as long as you torque it correctly. I just felt that the major weakness on this motor is the HG and my mechanic buddy that's helping with this rebuild strongly advised using the ARP studs. Like Inkpot said above "Only history can tell whether torque to spec or torque to yield lasts longer on a refreshed head gasket." The cheaper price than OEM bolts won me over.
 
When using studs as opposed to bolts you assemble the head to the block in the same manner. You can't go wrong with either IMHO as long as you torque it correctly. I just felt that the major weakness on this motor is the HG and my mechanic buddy that's helping with this rebuild strongly advised using the ARP studs. Like Inkpot said above "Only history can tell whether torque to spec or torque to yield lasts longer on a refreshed head gasket." The cheaper price than OEM bolts won me over.
ARP studs cheaper than OEM head bolts? Now you have my attention! Thanks for the info.
 
Something to think about is the expansion properties of the block and the head. Being different material.
I personally used the ARP kit, With the larger washers. And the OEM HG.
I have the old bolts. And a stretch gauge. I am thinking of ordering a single new headbolt to compare for fun.
 

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