1FZ FE Cylinder Head bolts/studs - ARP kit that works great. (1 Viewer)

[Rwhat]

Just follow the FSM for measuring the bolts. You measure the diameter in 2 spots. I used a pair of calipers, however I would prefer micrometers. They were all within spec. However 2 bolts measured a little bit smaller then the other 12. Although still within tolerance.

I bought 2 new ones, but didn't use them. All the bolts looked perfect without any corrosion or thread damage.

 

[baldilocks]

Something to think about is the expansion properties of the block and the head. Being different material.
I personally used the ARP kit, With the larger washers. And the OEM HG.
I have the old bolts. And a stretch gauge. I am thinking of ordering a single new headbolt to compare for fun.

For you guys who used the studs: How has your HG held up? Any problems? How many miles since? Did you go back and do a second or third torque after some miles?

 

[NLXTACY]

36k ish on mine. No issues. Retorqued a few hundred miles after break in.

 

[dogfishlake]

With either the ARP Supra kit or the Opel kit, where do I get the proper torque value for the 1fz-fe? I would think there is proper increment torque value and final value for our engines. Is this already in the FAQ's? I am also assuming the sequence is the same as the factory one? Thanks

 

[scottryana]

You use the torque specs of the fastener itself. They will be in the box with the studs. Same sequence when tightening them.

 

[dogfishlake]

Interesting, thanks. Seems like it would have relation to what the head is designed to handle, although that value may be somewhat of a standard for aluminum heads on iron blocks.

You use the torque specs of the fastener itself. They will be in the box with the studs. Same sequence when tightening them.

Didn't you use factory bolts on your turbo build? If so did you go new or reuse the original bolts?

 

[scottryana]

Nope the fastener manufacturers very rarely take into account head type, they are looking for maximum clamping load and that is directly based on material and stretch of the fastener. This was no more clear than when ARP spec'ed 155ft/lbs of torque for their L19 fasteners for the Nissan GT-R head and people were cracking heads trying to reach ARP's torque values. But with their normal supra studs it is around 90ft/lbs and like I said it will be included with the fasteners.

I did use new factory bolts and factory head gasket on my truck, before I knew I was going to turbo it.... But it is turbo'd now and I have run up to 17psi without issue.

My take is simple. If you are going to do the proper block and head prep and run an MLS gasket go ARP. If you're going to run a stock gasket go OEM.

Interesting, thanks. Seems like it would have relation to what the head is designed to handle, although that value may be somewhat of a standard for aluminum heads on iron blocks.

Didn't you use factory bolts on your turbo build? If so did you go new or reuse the original bolts?

 

[dogfishlake]

Well, I think it's going to be a little of both for me. Oem gasket and the Supra studs from Lightning Motorsports. The engine is not coming out so I can't machine for MLS, and for the money, the stud kit seems like a deal. Thanks for the post FZJ80AZ

 

[FJZ80AZ]

Well, I think it's going to be a little of both for me. Oem gasket and the Supra studs from Lightning Motorsports. The engine is not coming out so I can't machine for MLS, and for the money, the stud kit seems like a deal. Thanks for the post FZJ80AZ

You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions. I have mine all back together now and running great.
If you're adjusting the valves I can help. I have a spreadsheet that helped with the valve adjustment and I have all the part numbers for the shims so just let me know...

 

[Howard705]

Don't know stock bolt thread pitch or upper pitch of arp but finer threads=more clamping for same torque.

 

[dogfishlake]

That's great, thanks. At the rate i'm going it will be done before the decade is over, barely!

 

[djsixbillion]

Almost 40k on mine with ARP studs and MLS head gasket, no issues.

 

[Rwhat]

The ARP supra studs are 80ft lbs in the instructions.

The upper portion of the studs are SAE threads non metric. If IIRC

I bought my studs on amazon and were about $136

Make sure you use the supplied lube on all the threads and washers.

I followed MS-75 directions and threaded them all the way in and back them out 2.5 turns.

You can also install the nut with 1-2 threads sticking out past nut with washer on and thread them in with your Allen driver till they are sitting flush. A "T" handle driver will save your hands and wrists. Follow the FSM torque sequence. Another tip is to write with a sharpie on the head ( valve cover surface) next to the bolts the corresponding number of the bolt from the FSM.

 

[dogfishlake]

Almost 40k on mine with ARP studs and MLS head gasket, no issues.

I'd love to have that mls but I can't machine the block. Updated toyota gasket should be cool I suspect

 

[dogfishlake]

The ARP supra studs are 80ft lbs in the instructions.

The upper portion of the studs are SAE threads non metric. If IIRC

I bought my studs on amazon and were about $136

Make sure you use the supplied lube on all the threads and washers.

I followed MS-75 directions and threaded them all the way in and back them out 2.5 turns.

You can also install the nut with 1-2 threads sticking out past nut with washer on and thread them in with your Allen driver till they are sitting flush. A "T" handle driver will save your hands and wrists. Follow the FSM torque sequence. Another tip is to write with a sharpie on the head ( valve cover surface) next to the bolts the corresponding number of the bolt from the FSM.

Great info. Maybe some of this thread info could go in faq?

 

[1973Guppie]

I just reused my stock bolts after cleaning the heck out of them with a bench wire wheel......

 

[thetoyotaman]

So stock head bolts can be reused if they are measured? Can someone post up a pic of this stretch tool and procedure to do? Thanks!

 

[1973Guppie]

per the fsm they are supposed to be measured but I just took a gander at them and figured they were not in that bad of shape and reused them, meh.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Thanks for any help on this as I learn about this motor. I've seen in the FSM to inspect, but have not located the exact specs or tools or how to do this in there. In discussing this with my machine shop they tell me TTY bolts should never be reused, but since the FSM says you can inspect and reuse it makes me wonder if these are truly TTY in the traditional sense.

 

[scottryana]

They really are TTY bolts in every sense of the word.

Shops do not like to take the risk of reusing TTY bolts because even if they measure ok, if they start the process to torque everything down and one of them lets go they are completely at a stop and have to order a new bolt. Why risk it?

The process is to measure them with a caliper at their thinest location and compare them to the go/no-go size in the manual. But I side with your shop, not worth it to reuse them.