1999 100 Series Front Diff Removal Instructions (1 Viewer)

[smbramlett99]

Yes folks it's another thread on a broken front 100 series diff! I just broke mine yesterday afternoon during some (mild) wheeling. Knew I needed to install a locker at some point but just wasn't ready for it yet....guess now I am!

So as I searched I found plenty of posts about folks trying to diagnose the problem, but zero info on removal / install. Seems as though everyone takes their rigs to the shop for this upgrade.

The local shop (Slee in Denver) will install the locker but I think I'd like to save a little money and remove the assembly for them, take the whole thing down there and have them set it up. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but have never done this nor seen instructions on it before.

Anyone have instructions on the removal of the front diff or can you direct me to a post with the same?

Much appreciated!

 

[nissanh]

I did this about 6 months ago.
Items needed:
14 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm wrenches and box sockets (GOOD 6 sided box sockets), extensions, pry bars, breaker bars

While the truck wheels are ON the ground, remove the front skid and trans guards: Just loosen the diff mounting nuts and bolts. If these are never been removed, they are super tight so it is best to do all this while the truck is on wheels.


Just brake loose the front diff mount bolt (19 mm)
Removed the front drive shaft from the pinion flange at the diff
Drained the diff oil
Loosen (not remove) the four 14 mm nuts bolts on the diff support bar that runs across the left and right frame
Loosen (not remove) the diff rear mount located right next to the pinion flange: I think it is also 19 mm

Jackup the front wheels and choke the rear wheels: Apply park brake.

I used 4 jack stands (2 on each side to support the weight of the truck) and also placed the removed wheels under the truck to be safe.

With all that.
I removed the upper ball joints from the knuckle on both sides
Removed both CV axles from the diff end only (hope you know this):
Place a jack to support the diff. After making sure it is properly secured, start removing the above mentioned nuts and bolts. Note the orientation of the rubber washers.
Slowly lower the diff. Remove the breather hose

That is it.

 

[smbramlett99]

Thanks for your reply! I was just out prepping the garage.

Can the inner axle splines be removed without removing the ball joint?

 

[nissanh]

^^^ NO.
Without removing the upper (easier than lower) there is no room to separate diff from the CV's

I first disconnected the battery ground.
Then disconnect the ABS sensor wire at the wire clip in the engine bay. Then remove the abs wire and leave it hanging on the spindle.

 

[smbramlett99]

Thanks! I went ahead and removed them, (just didn't have the appropriate puller). Once the castle nut was loose I just hit it with a hammer a few times and off she came.

Just finished removing everything. It's definitely the ring and pinion. Thanks again for the instructions and confidence boost. It really was pretty easy.

 

[nissanh]

Alright!

 

[Niko1]

I did this about 6 months ago.
Items needed:
14 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm wrenches and box sockets (GOOD 6 sided box sockets), extensions, pry bars, breaker bars

While the truck wheels are ON the ground, remove the front skid and trans guards: Just loosen the diff mounting nuts and bolts. If these are never been removed, they are super tight so it is best to do all this while the truck is on wheels.


Just brake loose the front diff mount bolt (19 mm)
Removed the front drive shaft from the pinion flange at the diff
Drained the diff oil
Loosen (not remove) the four 14 mm nuts bolts on the diff support bar that runs across the left and right frame
Loosen (not remove) the diff rear mount located right next to the pinion flange: I think it is also 19 mm

Jackup the front wheels and choke the rear wheels: Apply park brake.

I used 4 jack stands (2 on each side to support the weight of the truck) and also placed the removed wheels under the truck to be safe.

With all that.
I removed the upper ball joints from the knuckle on both sides
Removed both CV axles from the diff end only (hope you know this):
Place a jack to support the diff. After making sure it is properly secured, start removing the above mentioned nuts and bolts. Note the orientation of the rubber washers.
Slowly lower the diff. Remove the breather hose

That is it.

Hi Nissanh,
Thanks for the detailed instructions on removing the front diff. I am removing mine shortly and putting in a TJM locking diff. I dont want to break anything as many of the others here have.
I was just curious when you mentioned to remove the upper ball joint......does this require a special tool? Also, did you put in new axle seals (the ones that are next to the differential)? Any advice would be great, thanks!!

 

[nissanh]

Yes, I installed OEM toyota axle seals. Do NOT install any aftermarket seals ever! OEM seals are very cheap as well.
For the ball joints I believe, I used a folk ball joint separator. If you damage the boot, you should be able to buy just the boot from the dealer. Try Camelback toyota parts.

 

[Niko1]

Thanks for the reply. I picked up toyota axle seals. I am under the rig now. Just curious.....I imagine once i remove the upper ball joint I will be able to remove the axle end that is in the differential? Thanks for you help.

 

[Niko1]

Thanks! I went ahead and removed them, (just didn't have the appropriate puller). Once the castle nut was loose I just hit it with a hammer a few times and off she came.

Just finished removing everything. It's definitely the ring and pinion. Thanks again for the instructions and confidence boost. It really was pretty easy.

I did this about 6 months ago.
Items needed:
14 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm wrenches and box sockets (GOOD 6 sided box sockets), extensions, pry bars, breaker bars

While the truck wheels are ON the ground, remove the front skid and trans guards: Just loosen the diff mounting nuts and bolts. If these are never been removed, they are super tight so it is best to do all this while the truck is on wheels.


Just brake loose the front diff mount bolt (19 mm)
Removed the front drive shaft from the pinion flange at the diff
Drained the diff oil
Loosen (not remove) the four 14 mm nuts bolts on the diff support bar that runs across the left and right frame
Loosen (not remove) the diff rear mount located right next to the pinion flange: I think it is also 19 mm

Jackup the front wheels and choke the rear wheels: Apply park brake.

I used 4 jack stands (2 on each side to support the weight of the truck) and also placed the removed wheels under the truck to be safe.

With all that.
I removed the upper ball joints from the knuckle on both sides
Removed both CV axles from the diff end only (hope you know this):
Place a jack to support the diff. After making sure it is properly secured, start removing the above mentioned nuts and bolts. Note the orientation of the rubber washers.
Slowly lower the diff. Remove the breather hose

That is it.

Hi,
Can anyone help me. Im removing the front diff from my 100 series. Its almost out but I am not sure how to remove the axles from the diff. I have removed the upper ball joints and not sure what the next step is to detach the axle housing shafts/or axles from the diff. Thanks for anyone's help!!

 

[nissanh]

Removing cv axles from diff is common for any other toyita front cv axle removal. you will need a pry bar and pry the cv axle from the diff. there should be plenty of yiu tube videos. Try Timmy the tool mans 3rd gen 4runner front cv axle on youtube.

 

[2001LC]

I use my 5lb sledge on a brass dowel. If using a craw bar, take great care, to not damage the dust shield.
FSM recommended method.

 

[Niko1]

Thanks guys. I went ahead and took off the four bolts that hold the 2 ft axle shaft cover (drivers side) off. It was a bear trying to pry off between the two sections. As I lowered the diff I dropped it toward the passenger side allowing the axle spline to clear. I was able to pry the passenger side off, it was pretty smooth. I will attempt to pry off drivers side after I watch a few vids, etc.. It looks like all the youtube videos that have the front axle disassembled still have the 2 ft piece attached to the diff. Oh well.

Also, I am looking for an upper control arm and a knuckle for drivers side (1998 Land Cruiser).
Thanks all for the help!

TJM Pro Locker installation coming soon for the front diff.

 

[Otis]

Also, I am looking for an upper control arm and a knuckle for drivers side (1998 Land Cruiser).
Thanks all for the help!

I have a drivers side upper control arm from a '99 LX470 that you can have. All it needs is a new boot because I trashed it while removing... Pick up for free in Mission Viejo or downtown LA, or pay shipping cost...

 

[Niko1]

I have a drivers side upper control arm from a '99 LX470 that you can have. All it needs is a new boot because I trashed it while removing... Pick up for free in Mission Viejo or downtown LA, or pay shipping cost...

Thanks Otis,

I am interested and will be intouch. I do come into LA/OC on occasion as Pioneertown gets a little desolate. You must be familiar with Pioneertown. There is a fun road from here to Big Bear (Im sure you know about that). The Land Cruiser club looks great.....possible I will join!

Thanks and I will be intouch.

 

[Niko1]

Hi Nissanh,
Thanks for the detailed instructions on removing the front diff. I am removing mine shortly and putting in a TJM locking diff. I dont want to break anything as many of the others here have.
I was just curious when you mentioned to remove the upper ball joint......does this require a special tool? Also, did you put in new axle seals (the ones that are next to the differential)? Any advice would be great, thanks!!

Curious if anyone here ran into trouble putting there axle shafts back into there front diff? I removed upper ball joints, axles came out fine, I installed a locker, drivers side axle went back in well, passenger side won't go back in (three hour effort)...even with c-clip removed. I'm trying to avoid pulling the hub and/or buying a new axle shaft. Any help would be much appreciated!!

 

[Niko1]

I will try and file the ends of the axle spline, but I welcome anyone to advise if they have ran into this.

 

[2001LC]

I've installed a lot of FDS. Some with front lockers. Non have had issue installing. Some are just harder than others.

The axle should not need any filing. But the inner snap ring must be smooth, that one reason I always replace snap ring.

I also always, grease the oil seal that seal FDS fits through/seals.
I always grease the end of FDS inner axle to hold snap open end down. Using crimp of outer large boot clamp as top orientation/reference point, like a sight.

Doing with steering knuckle in place (UCA BJ released), makes harder to install FDS. I Make sure, with a bottle jack under LCA. I get FDS in a level straight position, aligned to the differential. I'll often use my brass dowel and 5lb sledge to pound in from under the rig. Pounding on the inner lip of front FDS (reverse angle FSM shows us when removing), works very well for difficult installs.

 

[bwell]

Everything @2001LC said and some times it helps to rotate the opposing side tire a quarter turn here and there while trying to get the snap ring to seat. I use a 3' crow bar and 5lbs hammer(carefully) to get it to lock in from above while sitting where the tire would be once you know you have the splines interlocked and started in...if that makes since. I struggled a bit with a new driver's side axle recently. Just be careful not to damage the new axle seal or you'll be replacing it again soon.

 

[Niko1]

I've installed a lot of FDS. Some with front lockers. Non have had issue installing. Some are just harder than others.

The axle should not need any filing. But the inner snap ring must be smooth, that one reason I always replace snap ring.

I also always, grease the oil seal that seal FDS fits through/seals.
I always grease the end of FDS inner axle to hold snap open end down. Using crimp of outer large boot clamp as top orientation/reference point, like a sight.

Doing with steering knuckle in place (UCA BJ released), makes harder to install FDS. I Make sure, with a bottle jack under LCA. I get FDS in a level straight position, aligned to the differential. I'll often use my brass dowel and 5lb sledge to pound in from under the rig. Pounding on the inner lip of front FDS (reverse angle FSM shows us when removing), works very well for difficult installs.