1999 100 Series Front Diff Removal Instructions

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Thanks for your replies!

I ended filing the spline ends pretty heavily....still didn't go in even with snap ring out. (I will of course put the ring in once I feel this can actually go in correctly). One thing I noticed (rather interesting though I did read something long ago about this) is that the short splines that are there to hold the clip in (first to enter into diff) and the main splines that are actually taking all the power from the differential, these splines are misaligned.....just a little. I also notice that the main splines on the axle are maybe just a little curved (they almost run at an angle due to the torque........vehicle has 210,000 miles but was not abused). I could see how this could happen given this axle spline is closest to the diff and I believe this one is usually the one that gets more power to it when driving. I actually took the boot off and removed the six ball bearings (in the cv axle) so I could man handle the part of the axle that goes into the diff.. Still pretty rough going in. I got my old two pin diff and I will see how that goes in just for the heck of it. Does anyone know what type of grease is good to use inside the cv boot and how much to put in?
Thanks!!
 
Sounds like you've issue with bad diff side gear assembly. Modifying axle doesn't sound like way to go IMHO.
 
replying on an old thread... Shoving CV axles back into the diff was tricky, but what worked for me in the end was to have the steering spindle completely out of the way so the axles can be pushed in 100% straight. Ridiculous how easy it was this way. Even the slightest angle for me wouldn't let the axles shove in.

Also a note on the axles seals (at the fr Diff)... the new seals need to be pressed in nice and square, and slightly deeper than the housing surface. Gotta be careful since there's no edge inside to stop the seal from going too deep, or crooked.
 
Also a note on the axles seals (at the fr Diff)... the new seals need to be pressed in nice and square, and slightly deeper than the housing surface. Gotta be careful since there's no edge inside to stop the seal from going too deep, or crooked.
There is and inner shelf, the seals should be flush with. Joey at Wit'send, has a great seating (Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Drive) tool for this. For the one timer, an oak stick works well as a seating tool.
 
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