Builds 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Also, the FTE it is almost entirely the IP and ECU for being electronically controlled. Few extra sensors on the engine to complete this.

The FTE needs no high altitude compensator, it needs no VSV for A/C idle up and it needs no fuel or timing adjustments. The pump via a few sensors and the ECU takes care of all this. It can fairly easily be stripped down of most of its electronics. It’s cleaner burning, it’s smoother, it’s less smoky in plus easier starting and hassle free across a vast variety of driving experiences. It is no less reliable than a 1HDT or 1HDFT, in fact perhaps more reliable. It is definitely not as user friendly. It’s heavy EGR factory equipment is its only downfall besides the wiring and ECU side of things.

I get wanting to stay more old school, nothing wrong with that at all. Also nothing wrong with new technology.

Cheers

 

[coldtaco]

Can you/will you do a egr delete?

 

[Will Van]

Also, the FTE it is almost entirely the IP and ECU for being electronically controlled. Few extra sensors on the engine to complete this.

The FTE needs no high altitude compensator, it needs no VSV for A/C idle up and it needs no fuel or timing adjustments. The pump via a few sensors and the ECU takes care of all this. It can fairly easily be stripped down of most of its electronics. It’s cleaner burning, it’s smoother, it’s less smoky in plus easier starting and hassle free across a vast variety of driving experiences. It is no less reliable than a 1HDT or 1HDFT, in fact perhaps more reliable. It is definitely not as user friendly. It’s heavy EGR factory equipment is its only downfall besides the wiring and ECU side of things.

I get wanting to stay more old school, nothing wrong with that at all. Also nothing wrong with new technology.

Cheers

I don’t believe you. The 1HD-T is better. You will have to donate an FTE to my build to convince me otherwise.

 

[Honger]

I don’t believe you. The 1HD-T is better. You will have to donate an FTE to my build to convince me otherwise.

Same logic I'm using in sticking with my 3F.

 

[Will Van]

The high-pressure power steering hose for my HZJ75 is NLA, so I took a gamble and ordered the HZJ79 hose. They are identical.

Thought this might be helpful for someone else in the future.

Toyota PN: 44411-60621

Don’t forget the copper crush washers. Add a dab of grease to them and they’ll stay in place on the banjo fitting while you thread it on.

 

[OGBeno]

Use 44327-30030 instead of the copper ones.

 

[Will Van]

Used a Rotozip to make intercooler install easier in the future. Cleaned up any burrs with my Dremel and threw on a coat of touch up paint to prevent any rusting.

 

[Will Van]

I got the radiator, hoses, fan shroud, and overflow tank installed.

I had planned to install my water temp sensor in this outlet. I had the plug drilled and tapped for 1/8” NPT. Unfortunately, they didn’t run the threads deep enough and the sensor won’t thread properly.

 

[Will Van]

Can anyone recommend a high-quality tap and die set?

My Amazon special isn’t going to cut it.

Ha! Ba dum tisk! I’ll see myself out.

 

[SKULLYOTA]

i think the last tap handle i bought came from Lowe's and it's pretty nice. I usually use a crescent wrench anyway lol. How much deeper does it need to be tapped?

 

[Will Van]

i think the last tap handle i bought came from Lowe's and it's pretty nice. I usually use a crescent wrench anyway lol. How much deeper does it need to be tapped?

Because it’s tapered, probably another 3/8”.

I’m looking at a Matco set right now. They seem to be high quality and they have a full set/selection, plus a ratcheting t-handle.

 

[AirheadNut]

A couple of years ago I picked up a fairly comprehensive Craftsman tap and die set and it’s served me well. The only one that’s broken is a little M6 tap.

I often use a 12-point socket and ratchet to drive taps.

 

[Will Van]

I borrowed a Snap-On tap and die set and it worked flawlessly.

Installed temp sensor. I’m going to wait for water-safe Permatex to dry, then fill with fluid.

 

[Will Van]

 

[janyyc]

Now that's a sound I love!

 

[Will Van]

I finished the twin stick install. I may ultimately change up the boot, but this will work for now (to get the truck back on the road).

…Now what to do here???

I will permanently patch the PTO hole eventually, but I may make a temporary blank for now.

 

[SKULLYOTA]

Hope you have better luck with that boot than I did, mine tore immediately. Roadless Gear has a really good one in their Suzuki section.

 

[Will Van]

Today I worked on the clutch and the brakes.

I replaced the clutch master, flex line, and slave cylinder.

For the brakes, I replaced all the flex lines to the wheels/axles, the brake master cylinder, and upgraded to the FZJ80 Bosch/Seiken brake booster.

I had to do a little rust remediation on the firewall.

Making progress with a Ro-Loc disk.

Still need to bleed everything, but that's a project for another day.

Thanks for looking!

 

[Will Van]

Bled the clutch and brake lines (including LSPV). Went to take the truck out for a test drive and realized transmission is stuck in reverse.

Probably reverse shift fork slipped out of place during shipping. Hopefully going to be able to move it back following this thread.

h55f stuck in gear - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/h55f-stuck-in-gear.234282/

I don’t know where I would be without Mud.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Looking at exploded diagrams in the $OR catalogue and reading email, after email, after email on the LCML...at least that is where I was before Mud.