Build 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
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SWeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
Love this build !!!!
Love this build !!!!
Very nice job.
I see that you have the PTO port , would be nice to put in a PTO winch ,with such a car .
I see that you have the PTO port , would be nice to put in a PTO winch ,with such a car .
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #246
Thank you!
It previously had a PTO winch and front porch bumper. I removed it. ARB bumper and Warn 8274 winch is the direction I am headed.
Builds - 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1996-hzj75-land-cruiser-pickup.1252947/page-5#post-13884274
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Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #247
Ran into another snag with the driveshaft and transfer case. The front t-case output flange was the wrong dimension for the front driveshaft flange. Georg is sending me the correct one. So I decided to work on other projects while I wait.
My brother bought me a replacement rear tank cluster for my birthday. The switching button on the original cluster was broken off, so you had to use a pen or knife to switch to the rear tank. I installed the new cluster and realized someone had installed this terrible expanding foam/glue all along the inside of the cover. Presumably because the pad was separating from the shell. It would flake off and make a huge mess every time I went to install. Tried to clean it up, but decided to just order a new one since they’re still available.
Earlier in the thread I decided to relocate my vacuum canister because of the turbo water lines across the front of the engine. It makes more sense on the driver’s side of the bay anyway. I finally got around to extending the wiring for the sensor. Fished it through the dash. Wiring isn’t perfect, but I realized the entire engine and chassis harness needs to be pulled, cleaned, and rewrapped anyway (a project for another day). Went ahead and plumbed the line from the pump to the canister too.
Finally, I decided to go ahead and throw on the air intake.
If anyone has a spare rubber plug for the dust bowl on the bottom of the intake, let me know. Mine was dry-rotted and fell apart when I tried to remove it.
My brother bought me a replacement rear tank cluster for my birthday. The switching button on the original cluster was broken off, so you had to use a pen or knife to switch to the rear tank. I installed the new cluster and realized someone had installed this terrible expanding foam/glue all along the inside of the cover. Presumably because the pad was separating from the shell. It would flake off and make a huge mess every time I went to install. Tried to clean it up, but decided to just order a new one since they’re still available.
Earlier in the thread I decided to relocate my vacuum canister because of the turbo water lines across the front of the engine. It makes more sense on the driver’s side of the bay anyway. I finally got around to extending the wiring for the sensor. Fished it through the dash. Wiring isn’t perfect, but I realized the entire engine and chassis harness needs to be pulled, cleaned, and rewrapped anyway (a project for another day). Went ahead and plumbed the line from the pump to the canister too.
Finally, I decided to go ahead and throw on the air intake.
If anyone has a spare rubber plug for the dust bowl on the bottom of the intake, let me know. Mine was dry-rotted and fell apart when I tried to remove it.
Nice
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #255
All of my fuel lines were old/brittle and getting dry-rotted. I made a little progress under the hood replacing them. I went with Trident 365 A1-10 barrier hose in 3/8” and 1/4” diameter with constant tension clamps.
The Trident hose is for diesel marine applications and the best-reviewed (USCG approved, exceeds ABYC H-24 & H-33, SAEJ1527, ISO 7840, and USCG Type A1, blah, blah, blah). Hopefully it lasts a long time. I was only about 20% done before I realized I needed a lot more hose and clamps. The switching system for the dual tanks uses a lot of hose/clamps.
The only pics are from the bay.
The Trident hose is for diesel marine applications and the best-reviewed (USCG approved, exceeds ABYC H-24 & H-33, SAEJ1527, ISO 7840, and USCG Type A1, blah, blah, blah). Hopefully it lasts a long time. I was only about 20% done before I realized I needed a lot more hose and clamps. The switching system for the dual tanks uses a lot of hose/clamps.
The only pics are from the bay.
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- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
