This thread is an in depth post about what I have done to swap a 6BT Cummins with a 47RH (A618) into a 1996 FZJ80 with the stock transfer case. I am bad at taking pictures during the build process and I apologize in advance. I will answer any questions I can. I also apologize for any typos. Here goes...
BACKGROUND
I am a diesel mechanic, and I have access to almost any tool I need in the shop that I work in.
I bought the 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser in November of 2019. Former Texas vehicle, now in Tennessee, mostly rust free, little surface rust on rear axle. It is triple locked with 250k miles on it.
I love everything about this vehicle, expect for the notorious lack of power and mpg.
I decided to swap in a Cummins because I was very familiar with the engine (I owned a 95 Ram 2500 Cummins/NV4500 prior to the Land Cruiser) and loved the sounds, power and mpg, but hated every Dodge thing about the Ram so I put the best of two worlds together.
I saw a few 6BT NV4500 swaps, but I wanted to do an automatic so I decided on the 47RH.
I had the 6BT and 47RH ready to go before pulling my completely working 1FZ-FE and A343F out.
The process of getting the vehicle driving again was exactly three months of weekends.
I had a friend assist me when needed, and having a buddy to help is certainly something I would say is necessary for some parts of a project like this.
If you take anything from this post, I'd say that the Land Cruiser I own now is the coolest vehicle I've ever owned, the coolest one around, and I love driving it. However, I wish I went with a 6L80E, only because of the transmission length and more gears. This would be a bit more expensive, but would offer a better driving experience and the transfer case would be in its stock position (Marks4WD Adapter), allowing less modification. That being said, it is still awesome to own this vehicle and I am not sure what I would trade for it at the moment. An LS Swap was certainly on my mind this entire time because my buddy is doing one on an older vehicle, and I got a chance to drive a Silverado SS (6.0 Vortec AWD truck, super fun.) I will definitely be doing an LS Swap on something in the future, probably a Toyota truck of some type, maybe even a Land Cruiser... Anyway on to the Cummins build.
ENGINE:
1993 6BT Cummins VE-Pump Intercooled from a 1993 Blue Bird bus - approx. 103k miles
What I needed to do to go from industrial style engine to an engine that will fit in a Land Cruiser:
Stripped down to Long block, removed oil pan, all front pulleys and accessories, front timing cover, (KDP fix) flywheel housing, intake and exhaust manifolds, air compressor and power steering pump.
Replaced front main seal and timing cover gasket.
Cleaned and degreased the long block, taped off and painted the engine.
Installed the Cummins B Series High Mount A/C bracket from Adventure Vehicles NW, set valve lash, installed 2nd Gen Ram automatic transmission style flywheel housing, new rear main seal, and flywheel.
Installed new oil pan and 6BT to FZJ80 engine mounts also from Adventure Vehicles NW. The custom engine mounts made the swap take several fewer days, would highly recommend.
Installed new water pump, fan pulley bracket, fan pulley, and high mount belt tensioner pulley bracket and belt tensioner (Buy the OEM Cummins Dayco Tensioner, Gates style that came with the high mount bracket made the belt ride off the fan pulley.)
Installed Saginaw style direct mount power steering pump (vacuum pump delete) from Quick Draw Brand. I hate vacuum pumps, and did a hydro-boost conversion.
AIR SYSTEM
Installed an HE351CW Turbo (stock 3rd Gen Cummins turbo), as I have heard they are very efficient and quick spooling, even in less powerful trucks. So far I love it, the sound and boost is great.
I planned to do water to air intercooling, but after realizing that it creates another failure point (potentially catastrophic hydro-lock) I decided against it. Doubt I'll change my mind, I am not after big power.
Installed a BHAF, all intake and turbo piping custom made.
EXHAUST
Installed a two piece, 12 Valve industrial style exhaust manifold where the turbo mounts low and towards the back of the engine. Bought the manifold to do a Fummins swap, ended up working for my FZJ80 swap.
All exhaust piping (4") was custom made, used the stock routing, has an AP Exhaust XS2772 Muffler (4" in and out) where the cats used to be, dumps straight towards the ground after muffler. Nice tone, not too loud, definitely still a Cummins.
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
VE Pump, removed AFC Housing and installed Denny-T's AFC Delete and 3600 RPM Governor Spring.
The VE Pump comes with a mechanism for cold starts called the KSB. The KSB was mounted to the intake (due to the air compressor) on the industrial engine, so I relocated it to the position it is on a Dodge Cummins application (attached directly to the injection pump) with the KSB variable timing spacer from M&H's Inc.
Installed brass tipped plunger on Fuel Shutoff solenoid due to stock plastic tip failing somewhat often
COOLING SYSTEM
Using the stock radiator, and custom radiator hoses, the Cummins is naturally cool, and I will not be doing much towing, if any. Fans are two electric 12 inch fans, which flow 1250CFM IIRC. Custom fan shroud.
One of the freeze plugs in the head, near the exhaust port on cylinder number 5 was removed and tapped to fit a 5/8" hose barb fitting for the heater core. Heater core return routed to the lower rad hose port connected to the block.
Deleted the rear heater, and all coolant lines to it.
TRANSMISSION
Transmission was a core, with a broken input shaft. I installed a new pump, billet input shaft, and the 485 HP rated transmission kit from Power Driven Diesel. The kit comes with a deep pan, upgraded valve body, etc. etc. I highly recommend doing your research if you want to build any automatic transmission. I have rebuilt one, (somewhat successfully) and I still have no idea how they work. I do not plan on reaching that power level ever, but I know the Dodge transmissions have many weak points and I do not want it to fail while I own it.
I used multiple YouTube videos and a manual to build the transmission. I will not go in depth on how to build a transmission here, there is so much information out there, use it to your advantage if you wish to do a similar style swap.
DPC Single disc billet converter, low stall.
Trans is controlled by a Compushift mini transmission controller, only controls O/D and lockup. You can also control it yourself using two toggle switches, but Compushift allows you to program in speeds and throttle positions for shifting, which is nice to have.
Shift linkage is the stock selector modified so that the foot that extends below the body of the trans tunnel is on the driver side. This is connected to a rod and a bolt with a bunch of washers which allows the stock shifter to shift into the gears properly. (Essentially an L shaped shift linkage if the L were rotated clockwise 90*)
The dipstick is a short (approx. 6 inches) 727 dipstick from Lockar. Very high quality. Would recommend this dipstick or a flexible one.
TRANSFER CASE
Using the stock transfer case, I bolted the Axis Industries Toyota HF2A to Jeep 23 Spline adapter, clocking position 3 ( 4 different clocking positions available to ensure the best mounting angle for the transfer case) to the stock mounting holes on the HF2A.
This was the most important part of the build in my opinion, allowing a transmission proven to work behind a Cummins, to bolt to the stock transfer case. This allowed me to keep my stock axles and only have to worry about driveshafts.
Beware though, the 47RH is long, and the adapter makes it longer. You will hit your fuel tank, unless you find a way to make the engine move forward and almost hit the radiator. I will eventually get a rear 42 gallon capacity tank, and remove the stock tank completely.
The transfer case also hits the floorboards causing the entire body to shake. I will deal with that later as well. (BFH time)
SENSORS/WIRING HARNESS
I used the factory Toyota sensors adapted to the Cummins engine.
On the intake side of the engine there are multiple coolant ports and oil pressure ports.
For the coolant port you will need a 1/2" NPT male to M16 x 1.5 female adapter.
For the oil port you will need a 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT female adapter. Both are found on Amazon.
Entire wiring harness for the engine was custom made using wire and waterproof connectors from Amazon.
Including the A/C wires, there are 6 wires that need to be attached to the engine for it to work. One for coolant temp, two for engine oil pressure, two for AC Switch, and one for fuel shutoff solenoid. Very easy to make using Amazon wiring harness connectors, and very satisfying to make. Use wiring harness tape, wire loom, and p-clamps to make it look factory.
FUEL SYSTEM
I used the stock metal feed and return lines that came from the tank. I mounted a WIX 24770 filter housing for the CAT 1R-0750 to the fender, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" hose 90 degree barb fittings to it to use the factory fuel line, minus the banjo fitting which I just cut off. the return hose from the Cummins was also 3/8" so it had to be squeezed quite a bit to seal around the tiny stock return line, but it works.
I installed a high pressure piston lift pump because they are less prone to failure than the stock diaphragm style 1st Gen Cummins lift pumps. Stock injector lines and stock injectors were used.
SUSPENSION
I have the OME Heavy Lift, (850 and 863 springs) with one inch Delta Vehicle Systems spacers up front, and Delta Vehicle Systems bump stop drop brackets in the rear. I also have the Dobinson's (?) sway bar drop brackets because the flywheel housing hit the sway bar when the engine was installed.
The suspension handles the weight well in my opinion, not stock obviously, there is a lot of mass up front but it just takes a little getting used to.
If I were to do it again I'd go for the ICON Stage 1 just to see what it is like.
STEERING
In my opinion, you have to convert the steering system on a Cummins swapped truck (that has less that 4 inches of lift) to the GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link steering system. The oil pan is extremely close to the stock tie rod that is behind the front axle, and when you hit a bump you might dent your oil pan right where the oil pickup tube is. Oil starvation is the last thing I want my engine to have, so I converted to the GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link steering kit so that all the steering components are in front of the axle. Not too difficult if you have an angle grinder and welder or know someone with them.
There is a great thread on here on the FJ80 to GM 1 Ton TRE steering conversion. I would link it but this is my first post and I am not well acquainted with this website yet (someone please link below). I would have a shop ream the pitman arm and knuckle steering brackets to the proper sizes. All power steering lines were custom made. I have access to high pressure hose and a hydraulic crimper.
ELECTRIC SYSTEM
One wire alternator from PA Performance. Buy it and never worry about alternator issues again. External regulators with relays and such are not worth the hassle.
The most enjoyable part of this build in my opinion, besides finally driving it, was depinning the engine and transmission connectors down to only the wires I needed.
I used the FZJ80 wiring diagrams and my knowledge of what sensors I needed to do this. The wiring harness shrunk down to essentially just the transfer case connector, and the coolant temperature sensor wire.
I also installed a fuse panel that has ignition power to it so I could easily have accessories available, and also to run the fuel shutoff solenoid. The panel is ran off a relay that uses the old igniter wire (black and red) to activate it. Works perfect for my fog lights and electric fans as well. I must note that I have a check engine light, oil level light and ABS (recently removed entire ABS system) light on my dash, however those bulbs will be removed shortly as they serve no purpose for me any more.
ABS ECU, TCM, Cruise Control ECU all deleted.
AIR CONDITIONING
Sanden style compressor for 1st Gen Dodge application, working on getting custom lines and fittings, will update eventually.
INSTALLATION
You will have to bash in the firewall with a BFH if you want the Cummins to fit. This swap was completed with NO BODY LIFT (very important to me, Jonesy's Auto proved that it could be done without a body lift.)
I did not have to move the brake lines near the starter although I have read other had to. I used a 6.7 Cummins starter which is allegedly smaller than the 5.9 ones, but I've never had both side by side so don't quote me on it.
The trans crossmember required a piece of rectangular 2"x4"x12" 3/8" steel in order to have the trans be mounted at the proper height. This took a bit of custom work with a drill press but was not too difficult. Bolted steel piece to factory rubber isolator, and then to trans. Rear driveshaft had to be shortened, and I am working on getting a front driveshaft made. Beware, if using a dodge transmission, the trans pan is very wide and might interfere with a thicker driveshaft, I imagine my custom driveshaft will have to be made with some thin diameter steel pipe, but have thick walls to handle the Cummins torque.
Everything else is straightforward, just takes time. Wiring certainly took the most time in this, but only because I used wire harness tape and wire loom on every wire, but it was certainly worth it.
RANDOM INFO
Steering gearbox fittings: High pressure side is outboard on LHD vehicles - M17 x 1.5 Low pressure side is inboard on LHD vehicles - M16 x 1.5
Quick Draw Brand Power steering pump fitting is M16 x 1.5
Hydroboost fittings are M18 x 1.5 and M16 x 1.5, high pressure side is side with canister
47RH (any 727 based trans has the same I believe) CASE cooler line fittings are 1/4"NPT
HE351CW compressor outlet is 2.75"
HE351CW V-Band turbine outlet is 4.4", needs a V-band clamp that steps down to 4" exhaust pipe
Fuel supply fitting on VE Pump M14 x 1.5
Cummins intake plate can be rotated horizontally 180* and fit, however intake horns cannot be rotated 90* and be used without wallowing out holes. I used a front/rear facing intake horn due to the placement of my intake piping
A ton of different fasteners on both Toyotas and Cummins are M8 x 1.25. I would recommend getting many different sized studs to make lining up and installing things easier. I used studs for my intake, exhaust, some of my timing cover, my AC compressor, and a few other odds and ends.
My pressure fluid lines (power steering and trans) were all converted to 6AN and 8AN respectively, to make custom lines easy
Low pressure fluid lines (fuel and coolant) were all barb or stock banjo bolt fittings
Running Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 15W-40 and Fleetguard filter
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
Have only driven this as a daily so far, no off-road or highway yet. Will update
MPG is much better than before. I was getting probably 8 MPG (all city, 13 if I was on a road trip) before and am currently at around 17 city. The VE Pump Cummins is naturally more fuel efficient than most other style injection systems. It handles like a 90s full size SUV with a 1200 pound engine over the front axle.
I enjoy it because you already feel like the king of the road sitting up high, and with more visibility than you know what to do with, along with the grunt of a diesel, it feels great.
OTHER MODS
Front ARB Bull Bar Bumper w/ Warn 10k winch
Rear ARB Bumper with left side tire carrier swing out
White Knuckle Off Road Sliders
GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link Steering Conversion
315/75r16 Milestar Patagonia M/Ts on stock alloy wheels
Square LED Fog Lights
Dual Battery System
Hydro-Boost Conversion w/ Wilwood 1 1/4" master
Drilled and slotted rotors
ABS Delete
Sound deadened entire interior
I apologize if I left anything out, I will be on here sometimes and will answer any questions that I can. Do not be scared of doing this swap, it builds character.
BACKGROUND
I am a diesel mechanic, and I have access to almost any tool I need in the shop that I work in.
I bought the 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser in November of 2019. Former Texas vehicle, now in Tennessee, mostly rust free, little surface rust on rear axle. It is triple locked with 250k miles on it.
I love everything about this vehicle, expect for the notorious lack of power and mpg.
I decided to swap in a Cummins because I was very familiar with the engine (I owned a 95 Ram 2500 Cummins/NV4500 prior to the Land Cruiser) and loved the sounds, power and mpg, but hated every Dodge thing about the Ram so I put the best of two worlds together.
I saw a few 6BT NV4500 swaps, but I wanted to do an automatic so I decided on the 47RH.
I had the 6BT and 47RH ready to go before pulling my completely working 1FZ-FE and A343F out.
The process of getting the vehicle driving again was exactly three months of weekends.
I had a friend assist me when needed, and having a buddy to help is certainly something I would say is necessary for some parts of a project like this.
If you take anything from this post, I'd say that the Land Cruiser I own now is the coolest vehicle I've ever owned, the coolest one around, and I love driving it. However, I wish I went with a 6L80E, only because of the transmission length and more gears. This would be a bit more expensive, but would offer a better driving experience and the transfer case would be in its stock position (Marks4WD Adapter), allowing less modification. That being said, it is still awesome to own this vehicle and I am not sure what I would trade for it at the moment. An LS Swap was certainly on my mind this entire time because my buddy is doing one on an older vehicle, and I got a chance to drive a Silverado SS (6.0 Vortec AWD truck, super fun.) I will definitely be doing an LS Swap on something in the future, probably a Toyota truck of some type, maybe even a Land Cruiser... Anyway on to the Cummins build.
ENGINE:
1993 6BT Cummins VE-Pump Intercooled from a 1993 Blue Bird bus - approx. 103k miles
What I needed to do to go from industrial style engine to an engine that will fit in a Land Cruiser:
Stripped down to Long block, removed oil pan, all front pulleys and accessories, front timing cover, (KDP fix) flywheel housing, intake and exhaust manifolds, air compressor and power steering pump.
Replaced front main seal and timing cover gasket.
Cleaned and degreased the long block, taped off and painted the engine.
Installed the Cummins B Series High Mount A/C bracket from Adventure Vehicles NW, set valve lash, installed 2nd Gen Ram automatic transmission style flywheel housing, new rear main seal, and flywheel.
Installed new oil pan and 6BT to FZJ80 engine mounts also from Adventure Vehicles NW. The custom engine mounts made the swap take several fewer days, would highly recommend.
Installed new water pump, fan pulley bracket, fan pulley, and high mount belt tensioner pulley bracket and belt tensioner (Buy the OEM Cummins Dayco Tensioner, Gates style that came with the high mount bracket made the belt ride off the fan pulley.)
Installed Saginaw style direct mount power steering pump (vacuum pump delete) from Quick Draw Brand. I hate vacuum pumps, and did a hydro-boost conversion.
AIR SYSTEM
Installed an HE351CW Turbo (stock 3rd Gen Cummins turbo), as I have heard they are very efficient and quick spooling, even in less powerful trucks. So far I love it, the sound and boost is great.
I planned to do water to air intercooling, but after realizing that it creates another failure point (potentially catastrophic hydro-lock) I decided against it. Doubt I'll change my mind, I am not after big power.
Installed a BHAF, all intake and turbo piping custom made.
EXHAUST
Installed a two piece, 12 Valve industrial style exhaust manifold where the turbo mounts low and towards the back of the engine. Bought the manifold to do a Fummins swap, ended up working for my FZJ80 swap.
All exhaust piping (4") was custom made, used the stock routing, has an AP Exhaust XS2772 Muffler (4" in and out) where the cats used to be, dumps straight towards the ground after muffler. Nice tone, not too loud, definitely still a Cummins.
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
VE Pump, removed AFC Housing and installed Denny-T's AFC Delete and 3600 RPM Governor Spring.
The VE Pump comes with a mechanism for cold starts called the KSB. The KSB was mounted to the intake (due to the air compressor) on the industrial engine, so I relocated it to the position it is on a Dodge Cummins application (attached directly to the injection pump) with the KSB variable timing spacer from M&H's Inc.
Installed brass tipped plunger on Fuel Shutoff solenoid due to stock plastic tip failing somewhat often
COOLING SYSTEM
Using the stock radiator, and custom radiator hoses, the Cummins is naturally cool, and I will not be doing much towing, if any. Fans are two electric 12 inch fans, which flow 1250CFM IIRC. Custom fan shroud.
One of the freeze plugs in the head, near the exhaust port on cylinder number 5 was removed and tapped to fit a 5/8" hose barb fitting for the heater core. Heater core return routed to the lower rad hose port connected to the block.
Deleted the rear heater, and all coolant lines to it.
TRANSMISSION
Transmission was a core, with a broken input shaft. I installed a new pump, billet input shaft, and the 485 HP rated transmission kit from Power Driven Diesel. The kit comes with a deep pan, upgraded valve body, etc. etc. I highly recommend doing your research if you want to build any automatic transmission. I have rebuilt one, (somewhat successfully) and I still have no idea how they work. I do not plan on reaching that power level ever, but I know the Dodge transmissions have many weak points and I do not want it to fail while I own it.
I used multiple YouTube videos and a manual to build the transmission. I will not go in depth on how to build a transmission here, there is so much information out there, use it to your advantage if you wish to do a similar style swap.
DPC Single disc billet converter, low stall.
Trans is controlled by a Compushift mini transmission controller, only controls O/D and lockup. You can also control it yourself using two toggle switches, but Compushift allows you to program in speeds and throttle positions for shifting, which is nice to have.
Shift linkage is the stock selector modified so that the foot that extends below the body of the trans tunnel is on the driver side. This is connected to a rod and a bolt with a bunch of washers which allows the stock shifter to shift into the gears properly. (Essentially an L shaped shift linkage if the L were rotated clockwise 90*)
The dipstick is a short (approx. 6 inches) 727 dipstick from Lockar. Very high quality. Would recommend this dipstick or a flexible one.
TRANSFER CASE
Using the stock transfer case, I bolted the Axis Industries Toyota HF2A to Jeep 23 Spline adapter, clocking position 3 ( 4 different clocking positions available to ensure the best mounting angle for the transfer case) to the stock mounting holes on the HF2A.
This was the most important part of the build in my opinion, allowing a transmission proven to work behind a Cummins, to bolt to the stock transfer case. This allowed me to keep my stock axles and only have to worry about driveshafts.
Beware though, the 47RH is long, and the adapter makes it longer. You will hit your fuel tank, unless you find a way to make the engine move forward and almost hit the radiator. I will eventually get a rear 42 gallon capacity tank, and remove the stock tank completely.
The transfer case also hits the floorboards causing the entire body to shake. I will deal with that later as well. (BFH time)
SENSORS/WIRING HARNESS
I used the factory Toyota sensors adapted to the Cummins engine.
On the intake side of the engine there are multiple coolant ports and oil pressure ports.
For the coolant port you will need a 1/2" NPT male to M16 x 1.5 female adapter.
For the oil port you will need a 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT female adapter. Both are found on Amazon.
Entire wiring harness for the engine was custom made using wire and waterproof connectors from Amazon.
Including the A/C wires, there are 6 wires that need to be attached to the engine for it to work. One for coolant temp, two for engine oil pressure, two for AC Switch, and one for fuel shutoff solenoid. Very easy to make using Amazon wiring harness connectors, and very satisfying to make. Use wiring harness tape, wire loom, and p-clamps to make it look factory.
FUEL SYSTEM
I used the stock metal feed and return lines that came from the tank. I mounted a WIX 24770 filter housing for the CAT 1R-0750 to the fender, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" hose 90 degree barb fittings to it to use the factory fuel line, minus the banjo fitting which I just cut off. the return hose from the Cummins was also 3/8" so it had to be squeezed quite a bit to seal around the tiny stock return line, but it works.
I installed a high pressure piston lift pump because they are less prone to failure than the stock diaphragm style 1st Gen Cummins lift pumps. Stock injector lines and stock injectors were used.
SUSPENSION
I have the OME Heavy Lift, (850 and 863 springs) with one inch Delta Vehicle Systems spacers up front, and Delta Vehicle Systems bump stop drop brackets in the rear. I also have the Dobinson's (?) sway bar drop brackets because the flywheel housing hit the sway bar when the engine was installed.
The suspension handles the weight well in my opinion, not stock obviously, there is a lot of mass up front but it just takes a little getting used to.
If I were to do it again I'd go for the ICON Stage 1 just to see what it is like.
STEERING
In my opinion, you have to convert the steering system on a Cummins swapped truck (that has less that 4 inches of lift) to the GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link steering system. The oil pan is extremely close to the stock tie rod that is behind the front axle, and when you hit a bump you might dent your oil pan right where the oil pickup tube is. Oil starvation is the last thing I want my engine to have, so I converted to the GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link steering kit so that all the steering components are in front of the axle. Not too difficult if you have an angle grinder and welder or know someone with them.
There is a great thread on here on the FJ80 to GM 1 Ton TRE steering conversion. I would link it but this is my first post and I am not well acquainted with this website yet (someone please link below). I would have a shop ream the pitman arm and knuckle steering brackets to the proper sizes. All power steering lines were custom made. I have access to high pressure hose and a hydraulic crimper.
ELECTRIC SYSTEM
One wire alternator from PA Performance. Buy it and never worry about alternator issues again. External regulators with relays and such are not worth the hassle.
The most enjoyable part of this build in my opinion, besides finally driving it, was depinning the engine and transmission connectors down to only the wires I needed.
I used the FZJ80 wiring diagrams and my knowledge of what sensors I needed to do this. The wiring harness shrunk down to essentially just the transfer case connector, and the coolant temperature sensor wire.
I also installed a fuse panel that has ignition power to it so I could easily have accessories available, and also to run the fuel shutoff solenoid. The panel is ran off a relay that uses the old igniter wire (black and red) to activate it. Works perfect for my fog lights and electric fans as well. I must note that I have a check engine light, oil level light and ABS (recently removed entire ABS system) light on my dash, however those bulbs will be removed shortly as they serve no purpose for me any more.
ABS ECU, TCM, Cruise Control ECU all deleted.
AIR CONDITIONING
Sanden style compressor for 1st Gen Dodge application, working on getting custom lines and fittings, will update eventually.
INSTALLATION
You will have to bash in the firewall with a BFH if you want the Cummins to fit. This swap was completed with NO BODY LIFT (very important to me, Jonesy's Auto proved that it could be done without a body lift.)
I did not have to move the brake lines near the starter although I have read other had to. I used a 6.7 Cummins starter which is allegedly smaller than the 5.9 ones, but I've never had both side by side so don't quote me on it.
The trans crossmember required a piece of rectangular 2"x4"x12" 3/8" steel in order to have the trans be mounted at the proper height. This took a bit of custom work with a drill press but was not too difficult. Bolted steel piece to factory rubber isolator, and then to trans. Rear driveshaft had to be shortened, and I am working on getting a front driveshaft made. Beware, if using a dodge transmission, the trans pan is very wide and might interfere with a thicker driveshaft, I imagine my custom driveshaft will have to be made with some thin diameter steel pipe, but have thick walls to handle the Cummins torque.
Everything else is straightforward, just takes time. Wiring certainly took the most time in this, but only because I used wire harness tape and wire loom on every wire, but it was certainly worth it.
RANDOM INFO
Steering gearbox fittings: High pressure side is outboard on LHD vehicles - M17 x 1.5 Low pressure side is inboard on LHD vehicles - M16 x 1.5
Quick Draw Brand Power steering pump fitting is M16 x 1.5
Hydroboost fittings are M18 x 1.5 and M16 x 1.5, high pressure side is side with canister
47RH (any 727 based trans has the same I believe) CASE cooler line fittings are 1/4"NPT
HE351CW compressor outlet is 2.75"
HE351CW V-Band turbine outlet is 4.4", needs a V-band clamp that steps down to 4" exhaust pipe
Fuel supply fitting on VE Pump M14 x 1.5
Cummins intake plate can be rotated horizontally 180* and fit, however intake horns cannot be rotated 90* and be used without wallowing out holes. I used a front/rear facing intake horn due to the placement of my intake piping
A ton of different fasteners on both Toyotas and Cummins are M8 x 1.25. I would recommend getting many different sized studs to make lining up and installing things easier. I used studs for my intake, exhaust, some of my timing cover, my AC compressor, and a few other odds and ends.
My pressure fluid lines (power steering and trans) were all converted to 6AN and 8AN respectively, to make custom lines easy
Low pressure fluid lines (fuel and coolant) were all barb or stock banjo bolt fittings
Running Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 15W-40 and Fleetguard filter
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
Have only driven this as a daily so far, no off-road or highway yet. Will update
MPG is much better than before. I was getting probably 8 MPG (all city, 13 if I was on a road trip) before and am currently at around 17 city. The VE Pump Cummins is naturally more fuel efficient than most other style injection systems. It handles like a 90s full size SUV with a 1200 pound engine over the front axle.
I enjoy it because you already feel like the king of the road sitting up high, and with more visibility than you know what to do with, along with the grunt of a diesel, it feels great.
OTHER MODS
Front ARB Bull Bar Bumper w/ Warn 10k winch
Rear ARB Bumper with left side tire carrier swing out
White Knuckle Off Road Sliders
GM 1 Ton TRE Y-Link Steering Conversion
315/75r16 Milestar Patagonia M/Ts on stock alloy wheels
Square LED Fog Lights
Dual Battery System
Hydro-Boost Conversion w/ Wilwood 1 1/4" master
Drilled and slotted rotors
ABS Delete
Sound deadened entire interior
I apologize if I left anything out, I will be on here sometimes and will answer any questions that I can. Do not be scared of doing this swap, it builds character.
