1995 80 Series A343F Transmission Problems (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 6, 2020
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Location
Pacific NW
Hi Guys,

I have an 80 Series that w/A343F Tranny that was just "re-built" by my transmission guy. And I'm having the same problem that I had in my 94 ( A442F). Coincidentally they both are having the same issue. When put into drive and trying to accelerate, the rpms raise and the FJ doesn't want to move. It's slipping very badly and eventually it slowly goes and rpms match the speed, then once up to speed it's fine. Also when placed in Park the FJ moves like it's in neutral, the E-brake must be applied so it doesn't roll. Also, if I put the FJ in low range, it works just fine, no issues in park or starting off/shifting..

My Transmission guy says my transfer case needs to be replaced. I've had this same issue on the 442 and 343. I've already paid him to rebuild the tranny on the 343 and now he wants to re-do the transfer case...? Fluids are topped off and fresh considering the rebuild was 500 miles ago..

Any thoughts would help..

95 FJ
A343F
158k on motor and body.
500 miles on tranny "re-build"
Triple locked
6" Slee lift
37" nittos (no it doesn't rub) :)
stock gears.
 
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It's your front drive flanges are stripped.

Get with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters to get the parts headed your way.

@cruiseroutfit


Oh....And find a different mechanic.
 
@BILT4ME I would have never thought that. That Son of a ...... I just paid to re-build a tranny that didn't need it!
Are you 100%?

@cruiseroutfit Can you help

thank you
Your own statement confirms it.

"Also, if I put the FJ in low range, it works just fine, no issues in park or starting off/shifting.. "

When you place it in low range, it locks the CDL (Center Differential Lock). Without this, the viscous coupler will eventually give enough slip with enough throttle that the truck will move forward. Eventually, that will cook the VC and then it will chirp and hop when you corner tightly all the time, because you have smoked the VC to the point it is welded and your "CDL" is always locked.

So, yes.
 
Sounds like it’s time for a new trans guy and a good general mechanic. If you go to a specialist they will do what they do no more no less.
 
Here's a way to confirm and drive it:

Start the truck. Place the transfer case in low range.
Shut off the truck.
Pull the Center Diff Lock Fuse
Start the truck
Shift the Transfer case lever into high range.

Drive it normally.

If it drives, then it is driving because the CDL is still locked.

Drive it around a couple "tight" corners on dry pavement. You should hear / feel the front drive plats slipping and grinding. Normally, if the drive plates are in good shape, the truck will hop and the tires will squeal as you go through the corner.

To disable this, do the opposite.

Start the truck
Place the truck in Low Range
Shut off the truck
Install the CDL Fuse
Start the truck
Shift the transfer case into high range.
It won't move again.
 
Can't he just pull the drive flanges and look at them? :meh:

Or really just the dust cap right? If there's a bunch of metal shavings in there they're toast.
 
Can't he just pull the drive flanges and look at them? :meh:

Or really just the dust cap right? If there's a bunch of metal shavings in there they're toast.
That works too.
 
i would bet just about anything on a drive flange.
 
@BILT4ME I would have never thought that. That Son of a ...... I just paid to re-build a tranny that didn't need it!
Are you 100%?

@cruiseroutfit Can you help

thank you

I have over 300K with my 343, your transmission guy, hosed you, I'll bet he just got a reman and swapped it out, I am going to guess Larry Mortinson in OC , he tried the same with me, I only needed fluid :rolleyes: . Oh yeah welcome to the pit :flipoff2:
 
Sounds like the OP got hosed.
 
Oh boy. Does sound like flanges, but when I had a failure it was more catastrophic; Clicking in corners but no slipping for a few months. Then, kapow! Axle broke free and grinding, as the teeth on the axle were still wearing on the flange but not turning the wheel. Pretty hard to miss even if you don't know much about a CD/solid axle configuration.
 
@shocktower
Ohh man, small world, I’m in OC, it wasn’t Larry, it’s Rosecity Transmission in SE 😬

I spoke with the guy at Landcruiser Slecialties today and he knew, and was very familiar with this issue. I’m going to take the FJ up to him!

On another note I’m selling my 94 FJ 210k
Owned and serviced by Landcruiser NW before I bought it a year ago. If anyone is interested. I’m going to post it for sale up on here too.

Here’s a few pics of my 95 I just finished .
B9B66795-0A2C-4B5B-BF26-0E345BEFAF94.jpeg
C79AEF4D-82A9-4AB6-B57C-1370B8411274.jpeg
E3A6781D-E4F4-4B4E-A68C-AF76A27DC1BC.jpeg
 
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It’s confirmed... When FJ is put into D, and not moving, front shaft from T-case is spinning.

When I press the T-case lock up button, then put in D, while not moving, the front shaft is not spinning. Torque and drive-ability return.

The bright side is I don’t have to rebuild another tranny that I didn’t have to rebuild in the first place.
 
Stories like his make me sad. Crooked mechanics like your transmission guy is what turns a lot of non mechanically inclined people away from owning these wonderful trucks.
 
I view the root cause more as incompetent mechanics rather than crooked. Crooked comes into place trying to cover up the incompetence. The OP should be going back to the company demanding reimbursement or filling a small claims court complaint.
 

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