FAQ 1995-1997 1FZ-FE FZJ80 OBD2 Main Engine Wiring Harness Connector Information (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

An annotated copy of the Wire Harness Repair Manual, with notes as above, is in the Resources section. I update it as I come across more specific housing usage. If there is a housing you want to add, or one you want to have identified, please let me know and I'll add it.

 

[Godwin]

An annotated copy of the Wire Harness Repair Manual, with notes as above, is in the Resources section. I update it as I come across more specific housing usage. If there is a housing you want to add, or one you want to have identified, please let me know and I'll add it.

The deeper we get into Land Cruiser ownership the more critical this information becomes. Thanks.

 

[artech]

Just to be clear, you're asking about the housing part numbers on the pigtails, which are supplied with the sensors, not the harness side connector. Both the sensor and harness sides are typical for 1995-1997, Toyota Land Cruiser and 1996-1997 Lexus LX450.

The front 02 sensor pigtail connector (male) is 90980-10868; the harness side connector (female) is 90980-10869 (harness connector "H5").

The rear 02 sensor pigtail connector is 90980-11027; the harness side connector (female) is 90980-11028 (harness connector "H6").

Both are Sumitomo waterproof type for terminal type 2.3 II.
View attachment 3321943

Was hoping there was a part number for a complete splice-in replacement connector for the harness side of each sensor. I replaced the sensors but am still having a problem with the front sensor heating element. Thought I got a bad sensor so replaced it again and still the same problem, so I'm assuming the harness was damaged. (This is what I get for letting a shop touch my truck, but it was snowing at the time and my rig doesn't fit in my garage. I should have toughed it out laying in the snow to work on it but I didn't, so now here I am. Should have known better...) Figured I might as well do both at the same time if I can find the parts. If I have to build the kits is the 'Toyota Terminal Repair Wire 82998-12440' the correct wire to use for these connectors and are they the same in both front and back harness side units?

 

[Malleus]

The "repair wire" is the single terminal for the connector housing crimped onto a 6-inch length of wire. If you have a damaged connector housing or harness, the wire won't be of any help to you, unless you can identify a damaged wire near the connector housing. The repair wires were intended to be a dealership shop fix for damaged wires near the connector housing.

 

[Malleus]

If you buy a connector housing, it's empty (bare); you also need the terminals (above, post #104) and seals for the rear:

 

[Malleus]

Rather than blindly replacing parts, try using a multimeter to verify that you have a problem in the harness. The troubleshooting procedure for the O2 sensor is in the FSM.

 

[artech]

That's always good advice, but I'm not going at this blindly. Probably I should have specified all this at the beginning, sorry about that.

I got code P0130 for bad heater in the forward engine side O2 sensor, (which I didn't get before I let some hack work on my truck.) That's on page DI-43 in the FSM, which also refers to a page IN-28 that I do not have. The EWD shows on the Engine Controls page 58 that the heater wire should be gray at the harness side coupling, with the ground being yellow and red. Since I may have a problem on either the pos or neg side of the heater circuit on the bank 1 sensor connector- which is original to the truck and definitely showing it's age- I'm electing to get a pigtail to replace the entire coupling, and I found a unit from Ballenger, #‎CONN-85928, that should work. Hopefully this solves my problem. If not then I need to go further back up the harness chasing those wires. My other option would be to unpin the connector and try just replacing the two affected wires and terminals, but I've not had great luck unpinning connectors on this truck without breaking some plastic. I'd rather just replace the whole thing and have a new coupling.

I'm pretty averse to poking holes in wire insulation for testing because I'm high in the rust belt and the road salt just wreaks havoc on unprotected wiring. I've had wiring fall apart from corrosion under the insulation at old test probe holes, so now I really try not to compromise wiring integrity unless I absolutely have to. Hopefully I can remember to put all the adhesive heat-shrink tubing on BEFORE I start crimping things this time!

Thank you for all the part numbers of all the components, that helps a ton on these old rigs!

 

[Super80]

90980-10944: grande, gris, 3 pines, 2 sin usar (alterno, con soporte):

[ADJUNTAR=completo]1418860[/ADJUNTAR]

90980-10841: gris, 3 pines (lado alternativo):

[ADJUNTAR=completo]1418864[/ADJUNTAR]

90980-11317: negro, 5 hilos, para MAF:

[ADJUNTAR=completo]1418869[/ADJUNTAR]

90980-11153: gris y marrón, 2 hilos, para los inyectores. Cuando compras reemplazos, solo vienen grises:

[ADJUNTAR=completo]1418870[/ADJUNTAR]

90980-11246: Gris, 2 hilos, para bobina:

[ADJUNTAR=completo]1418871[/ADJUNTAR]

Gracias Thank.

 

[Malleus]

That's always good advice, but I'm not going at this blindly. Probably I should have specified all this at the beginning, sorry about that.

I got code P0130 for bad heater in the forward engine side O2 sensor, (which I didn't get before I let some hack work on my truck.) That's on page DI-43 in the FSM, which also refers to a page IN-28 that I do not have. The EWD shows on the Engine Controls page 58 that the heater wire should be gray at the harness side coupling, with the ground being yellow and red. Since I may have a problem on either the pos or neg side of the heater circuit on the bank 1 sensor connector- which is original to the truck and definitely showing it's age- I'm electing to get a pigtail to replace the entire coupling, and I found a unit from Ballenger, #‎CONN-85928, that should work. Hopefully this solves my problem. If not then I need to go further back up the harness chasing those wires. My other option would be to unpin the connector and try just replacing the two affected wires and terminals, but I've not had great luck unpinning connectors on this truck without breaking some plastic. I'd rather just replace the whole thing and have a new coupling.

I'm pretty averse to poking holes in wire insulation for testing because I'm high in the rust belt and the road salt just wreaks havoc on unprotected wiring. I've had wiring fall apart from corrosion under the insulation at old test probe holes, so now I really try not to compromise wiring integrity unless I absolutely have to. Hopefully I can remember to put all the adhesive heat-shrink tubing on BEFORE I start crimping things this time!

Thank you for all the part numbers of all the components, that helps a ton on these old rigs!

The "IN" pages are the introduciton pages to the FSM. Most scanned copies omit this. Here's the section you mentioned:

 

[artech]

That is very helpful, thank you!

 

[Malleus]

Sorry it took so long; I lost this thread somewhere.

 

[OOCustoms]

Ok so I have been following this thread with interest- lots of great information. I haven't had any luck through search for an answer to my question- I have a '97 that has cold start issues. Low idle , stalling, stumbling for the first 1-2 minutes until it warms up- then it's fine. I believe the problem lies in the wiring harness between the IAC sensor and the ECU- where can I find the correct readings to test these? It's a 6 way connector, I have another working '97 and the readings from that harness are way different than the values I get from the vehicle with the issue. Any ideas? -Thanks.

 

[Malleus]

The answers to all your questions are in the FSM. The engine section has a troubleshooting subsection with ECM pinouts and specific voltages for all operating conditions.

 

[Kernal]

FWIW (sealing probe holes in insulation):

 

[jefferson-mo]

Lots of great information here, my problem is different.....we're removing the head(in-car) and can't figure out how to disconnnect the engine harness connectors under the intake...can't tell which way to release them

Son's 93 FZJ80 1FZ-FE


or is there a better way to get the harness through the intake manifold


Thanks

 

[OGBeno]

Yazaki has now insourced wire harness manufacturing to Vietnam to a Yazaki plant there for service parts support for legacy applications.

82121-60343 is now made in Vietnam.

Most all service parts wiring harnesses are now made in Vietnam. Yazaki got smart with cost controls and has developed a supplier base that exceeds Japanese cost control parameters with equal if not better quality.

Vietnam is now becoming a serious contender in Toyota supply chain for global service parts support for a number of different keiretsu companies.

 

[MrBirfield]

What is the difference between the oil pressure sending unit harnesses 82221-60010 and 60020?
I’ve got a 95 and it lists the 60010 (discontinued) as the correct harness, but how different is the 60020 (available) for the 96-97 years?
I also notice part number differences for the oil sending unit. If I get a 96 sending unit will the 96 harness work with it?

 

[Malleus]

82221-60020 is listed for the 1998-2007 80 series models. It's odd that part is in the US dealer EPC, since those models were not US imports. My guess, and it is a guess, is that 60020 superseded 60010 when the latter production ended. I'd suggest you email Dave Stedman at Japan 4x4 and ask him if he can verify my guess.

What's wrong with your wiring harness?

The oil pressure switch, 83520-60011, listed for the 1984-1995 Land Cruiser is still available. Why wouldn't you use that?

The oil pressure switch, 83520-60040, listed for the 1996-1997 80 series and the 1996-1997 LX450 should be functionally equal, but I've never tried to substitute one for the other. The engine is the same, so I can't imagine the oil pressure sending unit requirement being different.

 

[MrBirfield]

Thanks for the reply.

Nothing wrong with my current harness, but connectors on my engine harness are super brittle. I was hoping to get a new harness for the oil pressure unit, but I’m guess I’m too late.
I ordered the oil pressure unit for my 95 and am going to replace it when I do the Cruiser and Compnay turbo kit.
Doing a bit more research it looks like the 60010 had additional wires for the AC unit where the 60020 doesn’t. Hopefully the connectors aren’t as brittle on the right side.

 

[Malleus]

You can buy new connectors. The part numbers are on the rear face of each one. There is detailed information in the Wiring Harness Repair manual.