Keep up the good work... fun to watch!
Dan
Dan
Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE
- Thread starter MoeGasim
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #202
Thank you.....its fun to learn and work on the cruiser....just a PITA to make a small mistake after u clean, solder and tape a wire only to realize i was reading the gasoline instead of the diesel page ....
will upload images as soon as i figure out what is wrong on my side here...
thanx again
- Thread starter
- #203
the work continues
well...its taking longer than i thought....but being my first time doing car electrics...i guess i have learnt plenty..
after doing a few tests on how much wire i need for each part of the LC....and modding my new (second hand) relay box RB2....started to install, solder and tape the wires to terminals and clips for ease of removal/revision whenever required...
the relay before..
the operating theater
and the final product
disregard the previous image i did for the hi/lo beam connection....i got the idea to provide a separate relay for each...word is, it gives much better light on the same bulbs....http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ ...worth reading
the idea to connect them etc was from the circuit of wired wagon....a beautiful product that, unfortunately, i cannot get my hands on here
well...its taking longer than i thought....but being my first time doing car electrics...i guess i have learnt plenty..
after doing a few tests on how much wire i need for each part of the LC....and modding my new (second hand) relay box RB2....started to install, solder and tape the wires to terminals and clips for ease of removal/revision whenever required...
the relay before..
the operating theater
and the final product
disregard the previous image i did for the hi/lo beam connection....i got the idea to provide a separate relay for each...word is, it gives much better light on the same bulbs....http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ ...worth reading
the idea to connect them etc was from the circuit of wired wagon....a beautiful product that, unfortunately, i cannot get my hands on here
- Thread starter
- #204
currently working on the interior wiring, combination meter, audio and every little switch i found..no soldering until i do a small test....really crappy wires in the market, so im buying only a few colours and marking them with permanent markers (3 colours)....PITA, but as Bilt4Me's advice....using better (bigger) wires = less heat and less voltage drop....so will probably end up with an alien vs predator symbol system on the wires...looool
I'm amazed by the amount of work you have put into this 80. Wish you the best and hope to see it on the road soon!!
- Thread starter
- #206
I'm amazed by the amount of work you have put into this 80. Wish you the best and hope to see it on the road soon!!
Thanks ... always inspired and motivated by other mudders...
- Thread starter
- #207
and yeah...i too really want it back on the road....most transport here is either cramped buses, rickshaws or micro buses.....and imagine being 1.9m tall and getting into one of those on a daily bases....i think evolution will kick in and i will develop a second knee or something
- Thread starter
- #208
addicted to pimp my ride, monster garage etc.....yep..they do take things a bit too far, but i tend to get inspiration and some small things here and there do work for me....
btw....this is me day dreaming
btw....this is me day dreaming
- Thread starter
- #209
circuits used...or source of insperation
cant remember where i got it from.....but, works for me...plus i added an extra relay and fuse for the off road lights on the brush guard
see...im learning, he is learning...we are learningggggggggg....looool
cant remember where i got it from.....but, works for me...plus i added an extra relay and fuse for the off road lights on the brush guard
see...im learning, he is learning...we are learningggggggggg....looool
- Thread starter
- #211
Wow....that makes me proud....guess I should be voted WOS...wreck of the site....loooool
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #212
guys...need advice
...thinking of moving the window/door main control to center console (which im going to mod to something like those Tuffy safe ones)...will remove the other switches from the doors, so only the main control will handle all windows....having kids does have a few (electrical) set backs...but also accessible to 'almost' everyone.
this will mean less wires, less switches to go wrong....and more space for maybe a cup holder on the doors.
what do you think....good or bad idea?
doing the mod for door switches for interior illumination to light room and hatch lights...and wiring the new courtesy lower door lights and wires......so that is next on my list.....help please.
...thinking of moving the window/door main control to center console (which im going to mod to something like those Tuffy safe ones)...will remove the other switches from the doors, so only the main control will handle all windows....having kids does have a few (electrical) set backs...but also accessible to 'almost' everyone.
this will mean less wires, less switches to go wrong....and more space for maybe a cup holder on the doors.
what do you think....good or bad idea?
doing the mod for door switches for interior illumination to light room and hatch lights...and wiring the new courtesy lower door lights and wires......so that is next on my list.....help please.
- Thread starter
- #213
Anyone. ..?.....
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
I don't mind the moving of the switches to the center console, just not sure I like a master switch that controls all the windows.
I had a Chevrolet Cavalier with the window switches in the middle. On one hand, it was kind of neat, I liked it when I first got it, and after I got used to looking in the middle, it was good. I didn't like it when I would climb out, forget to roll up a window, and have to climb all the way back in to roll them up. I also spilled drinks on the switches and they don't operate well with Coca Cola in them.
You're right it would be a LOT less wiring, so do what you want. Obviously you're getting good at it.... You can change it later to make it what you want if you decide you don't like it!
You're right it would be a LOT less wiring, so do what you want. Obviously you're getting good at it.... You can change it later to make it what you want if you decide you don't like it!
- Thread starter
- #216
i was reluctant too, but mind u, having "guests' roll the windows down to look at something (through non tinted glass) is a PITA, especially with the NEED for as much AC as the compressor can pump inside....thanx for participating.
first of all....where the hell have u been hiding.... hope all is well..
i have learnt and still intend to learn a lot from u..
i was looking into how to solder videos on the web and practicing on short strips of wire.....will post now, if i can upload the images.
will also try to finish the 3d model i am working on (when its hot outside) of the console i intend to fabricate.
as always....great advice....thanx
btw...i enjoy Pepsi....guess it does the same damage though....loooooooooool
- Thread starter
- #217
Home made soldering lab
after looking through maybe about 30 vidz on youtube on how to solder properly...i decided ...i need one of those gizmos that clamp the wires for me while i solder....was previously using 2 pliers...one to hole the wire down, the other to weight the other end down....
so....i got the clamps (not the disease, the handles ) from an old Need for Speed game steering wheel...yes im a computer geek in my not so muddy life.
Used epoxy mix glue (guess u have JB weld)
and voila.....my own "high tech' soldering, static, non moving robotic arms.
first test....
VERY happy with the result.
..this was the first time i ever saw soldering flux in real life.....it literally make soldering a piece of cake....
after looking through maybe about 30 vidz on youtube on how to solder properly...i decided ...i need one of those gizmos that clamp the wires for me while i solder....was previously using 2 pliers...one to hole the wire down, the other to weight the other end down....
so....i got the clamps (not the disease, the handles
) from an old Need for Speed game steering wheel...yes im a computer geek in my not so muddy life.
Used epoxy mix glue (guess u have JB weld)
and voila.....my own "high tech' soldering, static, non moving robotic arms.
first test....
VERY happy with the result.
..this was the first time i ever saw soldering flux in real life.....it literally make soldering a piece of cake....
- Thread starter
- #218
as u see in the previous post....i took out all the terminals from nearly all the plugs....been sorting them out to male/female and then by thickness (or guage).
did a breakdown of what i want connected, through where and how many wires come together at a certain place. this allowed me to decide what connector plug to use and what wire guages to use.
mainly:
- 1 x 9 wires at each door (2 audio, 2 door lock, 3 window and 2 the new courtesy lights) the window motor i intend to ground locally instead of going all the way back .
- 1 x 20 pin for the rear (to include rear hatch wiper, rear speakers, hatch lock, hatch light and tail lights + an additional 6 pins in case i want to add something later on.
- 2x 10 pins for the power sources and in engine relay switches.
- 1x 13 pin for engine sensors, fuel solenoid and reverse switch.
and so on.....still sorting out how i want to connect the dash wires and center console wiring.
any help/advice is more than welcome
did a breakdown of what i want connected, through where and how many wires come together at a certain place. this allowed me to decide what connector plug to use and what wire guages to use.
mainly:
- 1 x 9 wires at each door (2 audio, 2 door lock, 3 window and 2 the new courtesy lights) the window motor i intend to ground locally instead of going all the way back .
- 1 x 20 pin for the rear (to include rear hatch wiper, rear speakers, hatch lock, hatch light and tail lights + an additional 6 pins in case i want to add something later on.
- 2x 10 pins for the power sources and in engine relay switches.
- 1x 13 pin for engine sensors, fuel solenoid and reverse switch.
and so on.....still sorting out how i want to connect the dash wires and center console wiring.
any help/advice is more than welcome
necessity is the mother of invention! Your build is a great example of that for sure
I have concerns about your plan to not ground the windows except locally. I may be way off here, but Toyota didnt ground anything to the door and there might be a good reason for that. Maybe its the possible moisture (I know youre in the Sudan) or maybe the door isnt a safe or effective place to ground, but I just thought I would raise my hand, so to speak.
great work. keep it up!
I have concerns about your plan to not ground the windows except locally. I may be way off here, but Toyota didnt ground anything to the door and there might be a good reason for that. Maybe its the possible moisture (I know youre in the Sudan) or maybe the door isnt a safe or effective place to ground, but I just thought I would raise my hand, so to speak.
great work. keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #220
i totally agree....i re-thought the idea of grounding them on the door and the issues of future diagnoses if ever needed....i might go for grounding them with the seat belt bolts outside the pillars, but not all the way back to the main switch like previously.
thank you...and keep the advice coming.
