alia176
SILVER Star
well that sucks but look on the bright side, time to buy a tool
4 in. x 36 in. Belt/6 in. Disc Sander
you're welcome!
4 in. x 36 in. Belt/6 in. Disc Sander
you're welcome!
1993 LS Swap (6.0L LQ4 and built 4L60e) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter eplazajennings
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Haha- I actually went an bought that exact POS when I was rushing to get the engine in over the holidays, I go to unpack it from the box and the cast steel chassis that it rides on was cracked in half.
I think I would skip the headers and pick up a set of the cast manifolds.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Was about to suggest the same thing.
My4x4FJ40
Open 6 days a week
I've got the hookers on mine but I did send them out and get them ceramic coated . I've got the lq9 in mine with a tune a 420 horsepower and 400 pound of torque I am a little disappointed in gas mileage though 12.5 nothing to write home about
alia176
SILVER Star
Oh s***, LOL!!!!
- Thread starter
- #27
I've gotten a little backed up on writing this blog- but here goes a bunch of new posts. Attached are the new model headers that Hooker sent me. They fit perfectly and I am a big fan.
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- #28
So the next step in my process was test fitting my engine in the truck itself. A word on getting the powertrain in and out of the 80. I made a chain spread out of some scrap metal in my shop to make sure that the chain doesn't pinch on the heads of the motor. There are ton of spare bolt holes on the front and back of the heads to use for picking up the motor, they take standard metric bolts that you can get at your local hardware store.
If you decide to keep the entire powertrain together when test fitting (which is what I did) you will need to run a support chain to the back of the transmission or transfer case when lifting with an engine hoist. No engine leveler will be able to compensate for all the mass you've got cantilevered back there. My process for getting the engine in and out involved getting the powertrain in until my rear support chain starting hitting the firewall. Then I would get under the truck with a rolling floor jack and support the transfer case. Then I would disconnect the rear support chain and slide the drivetrain in the remaining distance.
I probably pulled and refitted my powertrain 3 times until I welded the motor mounts in for good. As far as how I placed the engine. The rear placement is easy as the transfer case cross member dictates placement. The front was a little trickier. I just went with dead center between the framerails, using the center pulley on the engine as my reference point.
The dirty dingo motor mount holes did not exactly correspond with the placement I wanted so I had to cut them down a bit to get the exact fit. I also decided to reinforce the frame with 1/4" plate steel where the motor mounts were going to go for added strength. The old Toyo mounts were tied in all over the frame rail and just welding to the side of the frame seemed like a weak point to me. Once, I had everything like I liked it I painted it with heat resistant paint.
If you decide to keep the entire powertrain together when test fitting (which is what I did) you will need to run a support chain to the back of the transmission or transfer case when lifting with an engine hoist. No engine leveler will be able to compensate for all the mass you've got cantilevered back there. My process for getting the engine in and out involved getting the powertrain in until my rear support chain starting hitting the firewall. Then I would get under the truck with a rolling floor jack and support the transfer case. Then I would disconnect the rear support chain and slide the drivetrain in the remaining distance.
I probably pulled and refitted my powertrain 3 times until I welded the motor mounts in for good. As far as how I placed the engine. The rear placement is easy as the transfer case cross member dictates placement. The front was a little trickier. I just went with dead center between the framerails, using the center pulley on the engine as my reference point.
The dirty dingo motor mount holes did not exactly correspond with the placement I wanted so I had to cut them down a bit to get the exact fit. I also decided to reinforce the frame with 1/4" plate steel where the motor mounts were going to go for added strength. The old Toyo mounts were tied in all over the frame rail and just welding to the side of the frame seemed like a weak point to me. Once, I had everything like I liked it I painted it with heat resistant paint.
- Thread starter
- #29
Of note- the drivers side is much more difficult in general because it is surrounded by brake lines. Be very careful. I undid all of them and always had someone holding them when I was welding/grinding.
bloc
SILVER Star
How is your clearance between the AC tensioner bracket and tubular crossmember? I ask because your mount posts look quite a bit lower than mine yet I only have 3/4" between the bracket and cross bar.
WOW - nice work!!!!
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I install the drive line as a unit as well and have found that picking it all up at the back of the heads works well with a load leveler. I can pivot the T-case up and down at will while lowering the whole thing with a chain hoist. I land the T-case on a rolling ATV jack and then lower the motor from there and roll the jack back and forth where needed. Hope it helps 
- Thread starter
- #33
The AC compressor and tensioner clear the tubular crossmember well. The one spot I did have an issue with was that my reinforcement plate on the frame was hitting the side of the compressor itself. I had to get in with a grinder and remove some metal to get the clearance I needed.
- Thread starter
- #34
Test fitting and fitment issues. A couple of headaches-
- Oil pan, I have a 4" lift and still it wasn't even close. Do yourself a favor and buy the F-body pan listed at the top of the thread. Holley has a really good guide on installing LS oil pans, I recommend following their instructions.
- power steering pump return tubes on the drivers side. The tube pictured below was hitting the toyo steering box. I tried bending it out of the way, but was getting dangerously close to collapsing the tube. Since my power steering pump came from a truck with hydroboost brakes, I just decided to eliminate this return line, and utilize the other return inlet. To do this I cut it off with a hack saw and tapped it with a 5/16 tap in a place where the filings were easy to fish out with the help of gravity. I then put in a 1/2" bolt covered in JB weld.
- The AC pump on the passengers side. It's a tight fit. As I mentioned above, I had to trim out a fair amount of steel from the reinforcement plates that I welded in for my motor mounts. I would just say, be very mindful of this and make sure you have your AC compressor attached when test fitting.
- Front Drive shaft and transmission pan. To be honest I haven't really tackled this issue yet. I know it's tight because I mocked it up with my old drive shaft and it was definitely, less than an inch of clearance. Keep an eye out below for more posts on this.
- Thread starter
- #35
The picture with the A/C compressor shows how it is hitting. I need to take a picture tomorrow of the clearanced portion of the frame.
- Thread starter
- #36
A couple of things that I took care of on the old engine today. I pulled the harness off which ended up being a huge pain in the rear. Fishing all the connections through the intake manifold was wildly difficult, I ended up cutting some of the connections off that I knew I wouldn't be using. I would recommend saving some time and taking a look at the wiring diagram before tackling this so that you can cut a bunch of connections off.
I also pulled the stock toyo temp sensor off the engine to find out it was totally corroded and unsalvageable. I bought a knew one and installed it on the LS motor. I am planning on retaining the stock gauges so the temp sensor needs to be ported over.
I also pulled the stock toyo temp sensor off the engine to find out it was totally corroded and unsalvageable. I bought a knew one and installed it on the LS motor. I am planning on retaining the stock gauges so the temp sensor needs to be ported over.
- Thread starter
- #37
This guide from autometer is helpful for figuring out where to attach aftermarket gauges on the LS motor- in my case that will be the temp and oil pressure sensors.
http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1563.pdf
I was able to thread the stock toyo temp sender threads nicely into the LS head - no adapters necessary. From reading other swap threads, some people did need adapters, so not exactly sure how I got so lucky. The port on the LS head is on the rear passengers side head. There is a plug that you remove with and allen key and then just thread your stock temp sender in.
Also pictured are my trans dip stick which is important to install before putting the engine in as well as the new belts.
http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1563.pdf
I was able to thread the stock toyo temp sender threads nicely into the LS head - no adapters necessary. From reading other swap threads, some people did need adapters, so not exactly sure how I got so lucky. The port on the LS head is on the rear passengers side head. There is a plug that you remove with and allen key and then just thread your stock temp sender in.
Also pictured are my trans dip stick which is important to install before putting the engine in as well as the new belts.
bloc
SILVER Star
It threaded in because it isn't the correct sender. On the 1FZ there are two.. one for the toyota ECU (what you used), and a single-wire sender behind the distributor/water neck that sends a signal to the water temp gauge. The second one is what we've been having to machine and rethread to fit the port on the LS head.
I don't know whether you can hook the gauge up to the sender you are using, but I'd doubt it.
Easy mistake to make.
- Thread starter
- #39
- Thread starter
- #40
I'm getting a little behind in my posting. But here goes the fuel pump section. Follow the FSM for getting to the top of the tank. The access port is located in the middle of the truck so you have to remove both back seats. Mine was filthy so clean it up so that you don't get mud into the tank when you take the pump out.
One you get the old pump out its fairly easy to get the pump off the assembly. The issue I ran into was that the toyo wires running from the top of the assembly to the pump weren't long enough. Because this was being constantly dipped in gas I got paranoid and went down to the local mechanics shop and got an old fuel pump he had just replaced for some longer wire leads. This particular fuel pump came out of a 911 Porsche.
Anyway, I lengthened the leads, soldered on some new ends and and riveted them in place. Of note, the supra pump did not come with the nuts needed to affix the leads to the pump terminals. Had to go to the hardware store for those. THEY ARE TWO DIFFERENT SIZES, save yourself the two trips I had to make.
Also while your at the hardware store pick up some hose clamps, I used those to affix the new larger pump to the assembly. It doesn't fit perfectly, but I jammed it in there and retained the rubber isolator at the bottom.
One you get the old pump out its fairly easy to get the pump off the assembly. The issue I ran into was that the toyo wires running from the top of the assembly to the pump weren't long enough. Because this was being constantly dipped in gas I got paranoid and went down to the local mechanics shop and got an old fuel pump he had just replaced for some longer wire leads. This particular fuel pump came out of a 911 Porsche.
Anyway, I lengthened the leads, soldered on some new ends and and riveted them in place. Of note, the supra pump did not come with the nuts needed to affix the leads to the pump terminals. Had to go to the hardware store for those. THEY ARE TWO DIFFERENT SIZES, save yourself the two trips I had to make.
Also while your at the hardware store pick up some hose clamps, I used those to affix the new larger pump to the assembly. It doesn't fit perfectly, but I jammed it in there and retained the rubber isolator at the bottom.
