1993 LS Swap (6.0L LQ4 and built 4L60e)

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On the other side of the fuel system I had to get creative to plumb the high pressure toyo line to the GM fuel regulator.

Here is the parts list:

Russel 640850, 610160, 610020, 640380 (to be brazed onto toyo fitting)

Wix 3373 (fuel regulator)

Starting from the GM fuel rail and working backwards... the Wix filter regulator clips right on. I made a little bracket that i riveted to the filter combo and bolts to a little 8mm bolt on the intake - this is probably overkill. on the back of the wix filter you need another press on fitting that converts it to -6AN (640850).

This is a good time for a tangent on AN fittings. Before I started this project I had no idea what they were. Here is a good summary I found - http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-0805-automotive-plumbing/

Back to the hose- once you're in AN fittings you need to get some -6 AN hose. Mine was 22" long (could be a bit shorter on second look). On one end I put a 90 degree joint (610160). On the other end of the hose I used a female end (610020). Now for the trick part.

The toyo high pressure fuel fitting is M14 x 1.5 INVERTED FLARE connection. It took a lot of effort to find this out, but the description for the replacement part lists this. Anyway, there is on adapter to go from M14 x 1.5 inverted flare to -6AN. I found it on ebay for $30. (seller 3sxperformance). I can braze so I decided to make my own. I got a steel -6AN fitting that looked like it would sleeve over the toyo female M14 fitting and went to town.

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Final Product below. For the low pressure return line I just heated it up in boiling water and jammed it onto the wix filter with a hose clamp.

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bloc

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I wish I could have done that with my filter and lines.. but the "trailblazer SS" intake on mine had the line too close to the rail.. there wasn't room for the filter without crimping the line heavily to bend it upward.

Either way good work. I need to learn how to braze
 
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Getting back to the driveshaft- TLDR it's not going to fit.

For those who care, when I bought my 4" lift from Slee back in 2007 I was a pimply faced teenager who didn't know the difference between a u-joint and understeer. I learned several years later that Slee mistakenly sent me a stock FJ80 front driveshaft instead of the double carden unit that the lift called for (that explains the driveline vibrations I had that whole time). So I'm currently the proud owner of 2 FJ80 front drive shafts if anyone wants to buy one or 2.

The silver lining in this costly mistake is that I needed to get a double carden shaft made regardless of the stock drive shaft clearance.

I called tom wood's shop and they let me know that they could weld me up a double carden unit for $400. They have remarkable turn around (they said they would ship in 2-3 days). I just need to provide them with the length of the driveshaft and the flange ends.

The big question is diameter. They recommended a 2" diameter shaft but said they could also make a 1.25" shaft if needed. The current shaft is 2.5" in diameter. My question is how much clearance do I really need up at the top of the drive shaft?

I'd guess my current shaft has about .25" of clearance (at a 45 degree angle) but it will contact the pan if it moves straight upwards. Would .25" of lateral clearance be sufficient?

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I wish I could have done that with my filter and lines.. but the "trailblazer SS" intake on mine had the line too close to the rail.. there wasn't room for the filter without crimping the line heavily to bend it upward.

Either way good work. I need to learn how to braze
You should! It's easy, just like soldering.
 

bloc

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Look for the "stock height" 5.3build by rockrod. He uses a smaller shaft diameter for clearance but I can't remember exactly what it is. 1.25 or 1.5. That .25" of clearance won't be enough if you come down hard on the bump stops
 
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Look for the "stock height" 5.3build by rockrod. He uses a smaller shaft diameter for clearance but I can't remember exactly what it is. 1.25 or 1.5. That .25" of clearance won't be enough if you come down hard on the bump stops
Looks like his solution was a 2" diameter shaft and some hammer blows.

This is probably a good time to paste in my notes that I accumulated in preparation for this swap. I put them all in a word doc so that I could quickly search and reference different topics. I uploaded them to a dropbox so everyone is free to download and amend as they see fit. Hope it helps people out.

In summary 252 PAGES OF LS ENGINE SWAP NOTES:
Dropbox - Combined Engine Swap Notes.docx


I should note that I accumulated all these notes circa 2015. Since then there have been a ton of new swaps on Mud including the 40+ page vortec swap page.


I just discovered Lazy's post which is hugely helpful in terms of wiring.

In other words, use this document as a starting point-
 
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Worked on mounting the new GM ECM and drive by wire control box. I ended up welding a custom bracket to accept both of them. the bracket threads into some bolt hole on the drivers fender that was used for some long tossed toyo part. I also drilled through the solid aluminum fins at the top of the ECM and connected the top to the charcoal canister.

It is my understanding from other swaps that it is best to retain the canister even if you are no longer retaining much/any of the old emission control systems.

The throttle control box was riveted on for simplicity.

Also, make sure you clearance for your battery box as it's likely not in.

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I'm getting ready to tackle the wiring tomorrow and have the wiring pin out spread sheet provided by rockrod. However, one big question I have is are people retaining the toyota ECM? So far as I can tell, there are a few crossover connections I need with the toyo harness, but there doesn't seem to be a need for the stock ECM to remain behind the dash. Am I totally wrong here?

As thanks for replying, here is a time lapse of the engine going in for the last time-
 

bloc

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There is no reason to keep the Toyota ECU or TCU if you have one (93-94 80s)

A few wires that go from the ECU to other parts of the truck (dash, transfer case, etc) will be repurposed but many of them just get pulled back, nipped, and insulated.
 
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Here goes my pedal modifications. My engine came from a truck with adjustable pedals so they were huge and elaborate. Nothing the sawzall couldn't fix. I made a bracket (really just a flat piece of steel) and drilled it out to fit into the two bolt holes where the old pedal had attached. I also chopped up the old toyo pedal and used the actual pedal part to finish the hacked up GM pedal. Tack welded everything and sat in the seat to check fitment. I am a little concerned with having too little travel but not much I can do about that.

Burned it in permanently and painted it.

This was one of the easier tasks I've tackled so far. Honestly I'm a big fan of drive by wire. Just plug and play. I did have to enlarge the hole on the fire wall to clear the new plug. Additionally, keeping the electronics cool when welding was also a big concern. Just got a nice damp rag and took my time.

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The Great Notch

I should start by saying, that you should definitely make sure that your AC compressor is mounted to you engine when you're test fitting. I neglected to do this and paid the price. As you can see, the compressor just barely fits and there is no way in hell the hoses are going on.

Had I test fit with the compressor, I almost certainly could have avoided this problem by lifting the engine up higher. Oh well, now I have a lower center of gravity?

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The solution, cue the music and fire up the plasma cutter. It took me an embarrassingly long amount of time to realize that I could easily remove the AC compressor to make this whole process much easier. It still involved some contortions to get all the angels, but all in all it was pretty simple. Something of note, there was an internal reinforcement block where the tubular cross member ties into the frame on the passenger side.

I avoided plasmaing this sorta by luck, as I cut the top off first to get a look inside. I used 1/4" plate to put the whole thing back together, so I'm not too worried about reduced strength.

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Next up power steering.

Parts list first:
1) Borgeson 925121
2) Russell 648060
3) Derale Performance 13220 (if you want to upgrade cooling capability)
4) some -6AN hose (~12-16")
5) 2x 90 -6AN degree elbow hose end to female -6
6) 1x 90 degree male to male -6AN coupler
7) 1x female to female -6AN coupler
8) 3-4' of 3/8" fuel line

This was also pretty simple as the adapters were plug and play. The Borgeson goes into the power steering box and the russell fitting goes into the power steering pump. This makes up the high pressure line. The AN fittings (parts list 5,6,7 all route this hose appropriately.

While doing this I also decided to upgrade the paper clip power steering cooler for something more robust as I will be running 37" tires. Other mudders had used this Derale product and the price was certainly right. Its a little flimsy though- there's no protection for the fins at all.

I also made sure to protect the rubber hoses wherever they were rubbing on something so as to not rub a hole through them in the future. This isn't pictured, but basically I used larger plastic and rubber hose lying around. The old radiator hose fit perfectly in the crossmember where the hoses pass through to get to the cooler.

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Shifter time. This part was surprisingly fun and technical. I greatly enjoyed it mostly because others have gone before me and taken all the work out of it.

Parts List:
1) Trailblazer Cable - PN 15785087
The rest depends what your trans came with. Mine was completely naked so I needed to order some parts
2) bracket to hold the trans end of the cable - PN 15200802
3) Arm to attach shifter end to the trans shifter flange PN 15082892
4) Nut to hold arm onto shifter flange - PN 11514603
5) I ordered this retainer PN 10217245 - but I have no idea what its for. DONT ORDER

I followed rockrods method for modifying the existing toyo shifter. On the toyo trans the shifter arm is located on the passenger side. For the 4L60, its on the drivers side. The issue with keeping everything stock is that the marks adapter plate that relocates the transfer case shifter gets in the way. So you have to switch everything over to the drivers side.

First you need to cut a new hole in your shifter plate to accommodate the arm on the other side. I flattened out the stock arm and used that as my starting point. Unfortunately the angles are wrong, so I had to cut and re weld the toyota arm. The key to this setup is the distance from the nut that the shifter arm rotates on to the place the new shifter linkage attaches to your fabricated arm. Rockrod states that it should be ~3.65 inches - I followed this dimension and it worked!

For the back plate that holes the cable in place, I angled this so that when the shifter is in park the cable is fully compressed. In other words, Park should be the extreme position for the cable.

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Next I cut some holes in the trans tunnel and made some new rubber gaskets to go over the holes I cut.

I had some clearance issues with my new setup and the breather tubes for the transfer case. I had to fab a little bracket to relocate those out of the way.

I didn't take any pictures of the trans end of this setup but its easy. Follow the attached diagram. The only trick is adjusting the cable so that it functions properly. There is probably about 3/4" of adjustment built into the cable. There is a grey clip that you can move back and forth to adjust the length of the cable. I played with this starting a one extreme and slowly letting it out and testing until I found the perfect length. There is then a retaining slide that slides over the adjustment pin to keep it from popping out.

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