1988 FJ62 Valve Job

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Joined
Feb 6, 2018
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2
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17
Location
Durango, Colorado
Hi all, I am about to purchase a 1988 FJ62 for my first car. I went and looked at the FJ everything is in mint condition besides the engine. It is running off 4 cylinders instead of all six. The FJ got taken to a mechanic who said that the truck needs a valve job. Two of the cylinders are at 40 and 60 PSI while the rest are at 120 PSI. I really want to get this truck. It is getting sold for an incredibly reasonable price and I am just trying to get more opinions on if this would be an easy repair. I am a very mechanically inclined person and would like to do it myself. I just want to know how feasible of a job it would be. Thanks for the help!
 
Welcome! Hope you’re up for some
Challenges and are really committed to owning and operating a 30 year old vehicle..! I drive an FJ62 everyday and love it. They are awesome but not without their faults (mostly unavoidable age related issues and PO neglect/abuse).

To start with... there could be multiple reasons for those numbers. Not everyone’s definition of a “valve job” is the same. It might need anything from a valve adjustment, a head gasket, a “valve job”, another cylinder head, to a full engine rebuild ($$$$$). If the price is right and the truck isn’t rusty, it could still be a great deal.. you’re going to need to provide more info to get some worthwhile feedback though- detailed pictures, mileage, and asking price for one. “Incredibly reasonable price” is a very subjective term...

I’d suggest you start by enlisting the help of someone local who knows these rigs and might be able to check it out with you. There are lots of friendly and willing folks on here to steer you in the right direction.
 
Lack of compression could be due to a few reasons, some of which are more significant than others. The valves could be out of adjustment, failing to properly seat at the appropriate point in the compression cycle. Adjusting the valves would be step one for this. The 2F / 3FE engines tend to behave poorly if the valves are not adjusted properly. They tend to run rough, but I'm not sure that poorly adjusted valves would get you 40 or 60 PSI on a compression test. That sounds more serious. The next possibility is that there is something wrong with the cam/pushrods/rockers that would cause the valves to not seat properly. Lobes rounded off, badly worn rockers or bent/worn pushrods. Usually if the valve timing mechanisms are messed up, there were serious oiling problems. The valve seats could be worn or the valves themselves could be burned (exhaust side), but again, those are less likely and more serious issues.

The next place to look for compression problems is the rings. Usually if you squirt some oil into the cylinder before running the compression check, if the rings are the issue, the oil will seal them up temporarily and result in an improved compression result. Rings tend to wear out pretty evenly across cylinders, so unless the compression rings in the two bad holes broke, you'd more likely see lame compression across most cylinders, but not down at the 40 - 60 PSI range (that's really low) in just a couple of them.

Far less likely, but still possible, are burned thru pistons. Usually only an issue in high performance turbo situations, so unlikely to be the issue.

I'm sure others on the forum will offer up some great suggestions as well.

If the truck is otherwise pristine, and you can get a good deal, and you're mechanically inclined/handy, I'd suggest that you grab the truck and deal with then engine issue(s). Rust will haunt you forever, and IMHO engine repairs are much easier and less stressful than trying to put the tin worm back in the genie bottle. YMMV.

Welcome aboard!
 
Thanks for the reply! The mechanic we talked to said the job would cost $1500-$2000. He said that the valves were clogged causing two of the engine's cylinders to stop combusting, so right now the car is still drivable but is lacking any power since it is only running off 4 cylinders. As for pictures, this is what I have.

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The body is in pristine condition with no rust, the car is completely stock, and the owner is asking $6,000. The interior looks brand new and all of the electronics still work.
 
Looks like a really nice rig. If the mechanic literally said the valves were “clogged causing 2 cylinders to stop combusting” you should seriously seek out a 2nd opinion, and probably not go back there... Have you looked for a local cruiser shop?

Any by the way, these things always “lack power” compared to most anything else on the road today.. ;)
 
Thanks for the idea. My dad was involved with our towns land cruiser club and he knows some people that could most likely help out!
 
Find out if the 2 cylinders with low compression are next to each other. If so, in my experience that’s usually a head gasket problem. Not the end of the world on these trucks, but still a bit of a job. Good luck and make sure you get him down from $6k
 
as others have stated, before spending your college fund, adjust the valves, then do a leak down test. following the results gained there, a more informed decision can be made. do not commit to removing the head just yet.
 
If you buy it and do determine you need a 'valve job', don't pay $2k to have it done. Which btw is not out of line for this job to be done.

Get a manual, pull the head and take it to a qualified machine shop. Pulling the head etc is a big job for sure, but with a friend and the manual, not out of reach for even a beginner. 2 good days to pull it, and once you get it back from the machine shop, another 2 days of work and your back on the road. Maybe $6-700 total, machine work and gaskets.

Really don't need 'that' many tools to do this job, no speciality tools, and if you are driving a 30 year old truck you're going to be need every one of these tools sooner rather than later.

A time consuming job but pretty straightforward.
 
I talked to a different mechanic who said that one of the valv
If you buy it and do determine you need a 'valve job', don't pay $2k to have it done. Which btw is not out of line for this job to be done.

Get a manual, pull the head and take it to a qualified machine shop. Pulling the head etc is a big job for sure, but with a friend and the manual not out of reach for even a beginner. 2 good days to pull it, and once you get it back from the machine shop, another 2 days of work and your back on the road. Maybe $6-700 total, machine work and gaskets.

Really don't need 'that' many tools to do this job, no speciality tools, and if you are driving a 30 year old truck you're going to be need every one of these tools sooner rather than later.

A time consuming job but pretty straightforward.
Yea my plan is to do it myself just getting into the project is very intimidating. As for the problem, I talked to another mechanic and he was very confident that two of the valves are just stuck, and are still adjusted properly.
 
He said that the valves were clogged

That is a meaningless statement. Even when the other mechanic says the valves are 'stuck' (if indeed they are), that indicates a significant issue. Valves don't just 'stick' for no reason.

Great looking truck and a fun project - just assume the worst and be happier if things aren't as bad as they could be.
 
He said that the valves were clogged

That is a meaningless statement. Even when the other mechanic says the valves are 'stuck' (if indeed they are), that indicates a significant issue. Valves don't just 'stick' for no reason.

Great looking truck and a fun project - just assume the worst and be happier if things aren't as bad as they could be.
What would a significant problem entail?? From what I have heard the mechanic didn't think there was a major problem and most of the work would just be removing the head.
 
Hi, I think you need to get a written estimate from the mechanic . You would hate to buy this and need a complete engine over haul. In those mountains you are going to need all the compression that engine can give . With these symptoms I would not drive it. Transmission redone ? Paperwork on the transmission with the cruiser? Mike
 
Hi, I think you need to get a written estimate from the mechanic . You would hate to buy this and need a complete engine over haul. In those mountains you are going to need all the compression that engine can give . With these symptoms I would not drive it. Transmission redone ? Paperwork on the transmission with the cruiser? Mike

I don't have the transmissions paperwork but I do know that it was just rebuilt, brand new BFG K/02 tires, a new battery, starter, fuel pump, rear main seal, and a new oil pan. I will work on getting a written estimate from the mechanic.
 
First off BTDT. Pulling the head is not a big deal, but there is no way you are doing it solo ... unless your middle name is "Hulk." It's a very large chunk of cast iron. I think even with a buddy we still used an engine hoist to put it back on. The advice you have above is spot on. Adjusting the valves, doing a leak down, finding out if it's adjacent cylinders, and GETTING A SECOND OPINION. There is a lot of junk on these that will be in the way of getting the head off. But, it's a 30 years truck and rocket science is not involved. Try to find a Factory Service Manual. Maybe there is a scanned PDF out there. Take your time.

Also, there are things that can be done while the head is off to improve performance. Shaving the head is a good example. How much somebody else would need to chime in with. And talk him down from the $6K considering the engine issue.
 
6k is too much money for a truck with known engine problems. Pappy is 100% correct on that issue.
 
120 psi on the rest of the cylinders isn't great either.
 
If you've got some mechanical aptitude, these are simple engines to work on. Personally I'd view potential valve/head problems as a price negotiating point.

The rebuilt transmission would have me worried though... the A440F has a reputation for unsuccessful rebuilds in North America... I'd want to know who rebuilt it, and go in knowing it may need to be swapped out for a good used unit (or a properly rebuilt one $$$) sooner than you'd expect. What do others think on that?
 
Hi, Rebuilt transmission with no written warranty means problems ? Plus there is so many definitions of rebuilt these days ! If Georg or 3 Puppies did the work that would be gold. Someone known on this site would be nice. And I didn't want to say it before but since it's already been mentioned 120 psi is not great and probably is an indicator of things to come maybe sooner than latter. The price is way to high. Mike
 
Hi, Rebuilt transmission with no written warranty means problems ? Plus there is so many definitions of rebuilt these days ! If Georg or 3 Puppies did the work that would be gold. Someone known on this site would be nice. And I didn't want to say it before but since it's already been mentioned 120 psi is not great and probably is an indicator of things to come maybe sooner than latter. The price is way to high. Mike

What would the ideal PSI for the cylinders be??? I feel like this is super noob question
 

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