Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJBen
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I think this 55ohms might be nonsense. I tested my 60's gauges, apparently the fuel, oil pressure and temperature gauges should all be 55ohms, yet they are all about 27. None show any signs of damage and I know the fuel gauge worked before I took it apart, can't remember the other two.
Could it be an erroneous spec for a 24V system? I'm not very experienced with electronics but I know that if a component flows the same current at 12V as it does at 24V, the resistance must be half, which is my 27 ohms. Not sure if there are different 24V oil pressure senders, coolant temp sensors and fuel level senders, but off the top of my head I would say no, as they are just passive resistances in a circuit.
FJBen
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That’s a great thought. I had wondered about the manual and 12v vs 24v, the but it wasn’t mentioned that I saw and I’m not smart enough with the electrical magic to know.
I did get a new sender, it’s on the way so hopefully I can rule that out. It’s cheap enough to try anyways.
I also got a test light to check since my other one is packed away. Plugging it into the sensor wire and turning the key on, the light flashes.
Found this on mud about 40 gauges: plus the later 40s and BJ74 use the same sender.
The sender is variable resistor. Being a Temp sensor or Fuel sensor the principle is the same. The resistance changes and thus the current in the circuit and thus the position of the needle.
To work on this cluster you need a analog Volt and Ohm meter. Why…..?
If you are looking for a bad contact, ground, intermittent problem, the needle of a analog meter reflects what happens. A digital meter is flashing digits and you have no idea what’s happening.
If you run the test with the light bulb, the manual says that the bulb will flash after a few seconds.
So at this point the light is flashing and my gauge shows 27ohms. Looking like it’s just the sender.
Not sure if I understand correctly what is the info gap (it quite late at night here...) but the 24 volt sending units are designated for 24 volts (at least the oil pressure unit)
Hope it helps
If Not....disregard
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Just checked quickly - you are correct. The pressure sender 83520-60010/-60011 is used only on 12V models.
I also checked the temperature and fuel level senders - these (on a 1989 60 at least) are the same on 12V and 24V applications.
FJBen
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Somedays….
So I got the temp sensor in from cruiser outfitters but something kept nagging at me and I didn’t want to drop coolant to swap the sensor.
I ran through the tests again. I’m getting signal on the sender. Signal at connector in dash. Ohms across gauge. Doesn’t make sense.
I decide to pull the dash again. Triple check connectors. I decide to look at the gauge. Weird, the temp gauge looks like it’s touching the black background and none of the other gauges are?
So…when I put that little green turn signal light in, I must have somehow pushed the gauge needle into the background effectively wedging it into place.
. It wouldn’t spring back like the other gauges.
I took it all apart, gently pulled up on the pivot point of the needle and it popped right up. Then it would spring back if I lifted it up.
Put it all back together, went for a drive to heat it up.
Celebratory beer and hotdog for a job well done. Me asking my wife if she’d like a beer and celebratory hotdog as well…
She was disinclined to acquiesce to my request…
Working just fine now. Talk about dumb move ! I’ve been in IT support and trouble shooting for over 25 years. You would think I’d have the simple steps covered first…you know like it stopped working right after I went into the gauge pod….
Either way, temp working. I have a spare temp sender and setup for a better temp sender to hook up to my auber when I find a good place to mount it.
So I got the temp sensor in from cruiser outfitters but something kept nagging at me and I didn’t want to drop coolant to swap the sensor.
I ran through the tests again. I’m getting signal on the sender. Signal at connector in dash. Ohms across gauge. Doesn’t make sense.
I decide to pull the dash again. Triple check connectors. I decide to look at the gauge. Weird, the temp gauge looks like it’s touching the black background and none of the other gauges are?
So…when I put that little green turn signal light in, I must have somehow pushed the gauge needle into the background effectively wedging it into place.
. It wouldn’t spring back like the other gauges.I took it all apart, gently pulled up on the pivot point of the needle and it popped right up. Then it would spring back if I lifted it up.
Put it all back together, went for a drive to heat it up.
Celebratory beer and hotdog for a job well done. Me asking my wife if she’d like a beer and celebratory hotdog as well…
She was disinclined to acquiesce to my request…
Working just fine now. Talk about dumb move ! I’ve been in IT support and trouble shooting for over 25 years. You would think I’d have the simple steps covered first…you know like it stopped working right after I went into the gauge pod….
Either way, temp working. I have a spare temp sender and setup for a better temp sender to hook up to my auber when I find a good place to mount it.
FJBen
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- #2,650
No sunset 
Took the middy on holiday to Fraser Island. Had some stubbys, dodged some skippys and headbutted some men in grey suits….
Isn’t that what all aussies do?
Or maybe I just went to the lake on Father’s Day…
Other side of the lake. Didn’t explore a bunch, we were on a mission to cook steaks.
It appears the leak on the one side stopped but another has popped up. Should have used FIPG and gasket I suppose. I guess I’ll try the bandaid spray until I I can pull it all apart again. I’ve got 2 timing belts on 2UZs to do first.
Took the middy on holiday to Fraser Island. Had some stubbys, dodged some skippys and headbutted some men in grey suits….
Isn’t that what all aussies do?
Or maybe I just went to the lake on Father’s Day…
Other side of the lake. Didn’t explore a bunch, we were on a mission to cook steaks.
It appears the leak on the one side stopped but another has popped up. Should have used FIPG and gasket I suppose. I guess I’ll try the bandaid spray until I I can pull it all apart again. I’ve got 2 timing belts on 2UZs to do first.
Last edited:
What lake is that??No sunset
Took the middy on holiday to Fraser Island. Had some stubbys, dodged some skippys and headbutted some men in grey suits….
View attachment 3929936
Isn’t that what all aussies do?
Or maybe I just went to the lake on Father’s Day…
View attachment 3929937
Other side of the lake. Didn’t explore a bunch, we were on a mission to cook steaks.
View attachment 3929951
It appears the leak on the one side stopped but another has popped up. Should have used FIPG and gasket I suppose. I guess I’ll try the bandaid spray until I I can pull it all apart again. I’ve got 2 timing belts on 2UZs to do first.
View attachment 3929950
View attachment 3929934
View attachment 3929935
That was my guess. I've actually never been up there. Might have to one day. In fact, there's a river in the Sandhills I want to canoe, so maybe I'd stop at the lake on the way.
....You forgot about "roundin up some sheila's"No sunset
Took the middy on holiday to Fraser Island. Had some stubbys, dodged some skippys and headbutted some men in grey suits….
View attachment 3929934
Isn’t that what all aussies do?
Or maybe I just went to the lake on Father’s Day…
View attachment 3929935
Other side of the lake. Didn’t explore a bunch, we were on a mission to cook steaks.
View attachment 3929951
It appears the leak on the one side stopped but another has popped up. Should have used FIPG and gasket I suppose. I guess I’ll try the bandaid spray until I I can pull it all apart again. I’ve got 2 timing belts on 2UZs to do first.
View attachment 3929950
FJBen
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So about that beach day…103F. It was warm!
On the way back I noticed my coolant temp rise a little. To be fair, it was 103F, windy gusts over 20mph (headwinds) 3 people in the rig and a big paddle board pushing wind.
I was running about 62ish mph.
EGT: 820ish
Temp on Auber: 182 climbing to 187
Factory guage: slightly above the bottom quarter or always sets at.
My Auber gauge is a ring sensor that’s on a thermostat bolt. It isn’t an actual coolant temp, but it should be “close” to coolant temp and does give engine metal temp without worry of false readings of no coolant present.
The bad part is I have no baseline really to say this is the actual temp my water is at.
Normally on a 80f day, normal driving it can sit 160-170f. I have seen 180s before.
no coolant bubbled or boiled over, levels normal so maybe it’s normal operation in that situation.
I’ve never had a cooling issue with this cruiser, and I don’t think I have one but it would be really nice to know actual temps on days like this.
There’s a few ways to do that, this might be the easiest. Hook it up in the upper radiator hose with a sender and hook it up to my Auber gauge.
The good thing is I can actually run both temps at the same time to see what the difference is.
I hate cutting a radiator hose but a ton of people use these without issue.
On the way back I noticed my coolant temp rise a little. To be fair, it was 103F, windy gusts over 20mph (headwinds) 3 people in the rig and a big paddle board pushing wind.
I was running about 62ish mph.
EGT: 820ish
Temp on Auber: 182 climbing to 187
Factory guage: slightly above the bottom quarter or always sets at.
My Auber gauge is a ring sensor that’s on a thermostat bolt. It isn’t an actual coolant temp, but it should be “close” to coolant temp and does give engine metal temp without worry of false readings of no coolant present.
The bad part is I have no baseline really to say this is the actual temp my water is at.
Normally on a 80f day, normal driving it can sit 160-170f. I have seen 180s before.
no coolant bubbled or boiled over, levels normal so maybe it’s normal operation in that situation.
I’ve never had a cooling issue with this cruiser, and I don’t think I have one but it would be really nice to know actual temps on days like this.
There’s a few ways to do that, this might be the easiest. Hook it up in the upper radiator hose with a sender and hook it up to my Auber gauge.
The good thing is I can actually run both temps at the same time to see what the difference is.
I hate cutting a radiator hose but a ton of people use these without issue.
Hi
I have my external gauge (Motometer, which is the low cost brand of VDO) plugged to the OEM temp sensor. The reading might not be baselined, but the relative reading is extremely accurate. On a cold start, I can even notice the thermostat starting to operate: Temp goes up, then temp goes down 3° as it opens and cold coolant from the radiator goes in circuit, which makes it close a bit, goes up again, opens again ...
Eventually it levels at 82ish °, which is pretty close to my thermostat spec.
I'm very sure I'd notice a significant coolant loss, as no media around the sensor would certainly cause an instant temperature deviation of some sort.
My cluster gauge is 'working', but it anyways barely ever exceeded the middle position, even not when the engine definitely ran hot. So I don't mind to just disconnect it and switch the sensor to the external gauge.
Probably you can also plug your gauge to the OEM sender and see what it does?
Cheers Ralf
I have my external gauge (Motometer, which is the low cost brand of VDO) plugged to the OEM temp sensor. The reading might not be baselined, but the relative reading is extremely accurate. On a cold start, I can even notice the thermostat starting to operate: Temp goes up, then temp goes down 3° as it opens and cold coolant from the radiator goes in circuit, which makes it close a bit, goes up again, opens again ...
Eventually it levels at 82ish °, which is pretty close to my thermostat spec.
I'm very sure I'd notice a significant coolant loss, as no media around the sensor would certainly cause an instant temperature deviation of some sort.
My cluster gauge is 'working', but it anyways barely ever exceeded the middle position, even not when the engine definitely ran hot. So I don't mind to just disconnect it and switch the sensor to the external gauge.
Probably you can also plug your gauge to the OEM sender and see what it does?
Cheers Ralf
