Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (10 Viewers)

[FJBen]

Hi
I have my external gauge (Motometer, which is the low cost brand of VDO) plugged to the OEM temp sensor. The reading might not be baselined, but the relative reading is extremely accurate. On a cold start, I can even notice the thermostat starting to operate: Temp goes up, then temp goes down 3° as it opens and cold coolant from the radiator goes in circuit, which makes it close a bit, goes up again, opens again ...
Eventually it levels at 82ish °, which is pretty close to my thermostat spec.
I'm very sure I'd notice a significant coolant loss, as no media around the sensor would certainly cause an instant temperature deviation of some sort.
My cluster gauge is 'working', but it anyways barely ever exceeded the middle position, even not when the engine definitely ran hot. So I don't mind to just disconnect it and switch the sensor to the external gauge.
Probably you can also plug your gauge to the OEM sender and see what it does?
Cheers Ralf

Great info. Thanks!


I would also assume the loss of coolant would trigger some movement on the factory gauge but judging by what others have experienced, you might not see it or it might be so subtle it would be ignored.


So you got me thinking about the factory gauges we have. The specs for the senders work off of resistance.

My Auber gauge can read a NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor. Which means as temp goes up, resistance goes down.

According to Auber:

Only the 50°C to 150°C temperature sensors made by VDO can be read by Aube’s automotive gauges (SYL‐1813 and SYL‐1813‐MR). This category of VDO sensors are thermistors with negative temperature coefficient (NTC). Their resistance values decrease from 323 ohm to 18 ohm as the temperature increases from 50°C to 150°C. Auber’s gauge will measure the resistance value of the VDO sensor and convert it to the corresponding temperature value.



Here’s where it gets vague. It says converts to temp and they give this chart:

So at 50c: 122F
Oem = 226ohm +/- 33
VDO = 350ohm

So my OEM sender would show around 60c/140F (ish) so 10c hotter maybe… that plus minus 33/36 throws it off)

On the high end: 115c/239f
Oem sender: 26 ohms
VDO: 40ohms

So the Auber gauge would read 26ohms as 139c/282f. Yikes. While reading hot is better than reading cool, I need to see if there is an offset I can program or maybe even a resistor added in to change that value?

I’m not electrically smart enough off the top of my head to figure that out since it’s a greater amount at higher resistance.

That or just add in a sensor in the radiator hose that the Auber reads correctly


And for all of you that don’t read my thread for the articles…
Also found this photo pop up on my phone from a few years ago. I still like the 255s and oem rims.

 

[FJBen]

Other tech or sadness…feel free to chime in.

I was working on our 2006 tundra double cab, replacing an O2 sensor and happened to look at the back of the frame…

I knew it has had surface rust but I have been watching it on and off for years. I haven’t really looked that hard in a little while.

It’s solid. Banging with a hammer yields no weird spots but obviously it’s delaminating and eventually will fail.

It’s become my son’s rig mainly because he’s 16 and over 6’7”. We are rural so it’s mainly just a 10 min to town/school for him but we do use it for all towing, hay pickup, moving etc.

We aren’t in a position to buy anything at the moment but I don’t want us driving something unsafe.

We’ve owned since 2017 and 114k and it currently has 199k and needs timing belt, some suspension work and some more odds and ends.

What does mud say? Completely unsafe? Run it and watch it? Sell it while it still has some value and put towards a different one ?

 

[svsisu]

I can send you photos of my 99 Tacoma’s frame that would give you nightmares. I’ve put a couple of safety caps on it in places, and need to do another. I may be naive but I don’t have much concern driving it. On the other hand, my girlfriend’s Tacoma isn’t safe to move to the end of the driveway. It’s what we call a “fishing car”. By comparison, yours doesn’t look bad at all.

 

[Rigster]

Other tech or sadness…feel free to chime in.

I was working on our 2006 tundra double cab, replacing an O2 sensor and happened to look at the back of the frame…

I knew it has had surface rust but I have been watching it on and off for years. I haven’t really looked that hard in a little while.

View attachment 3936917
View attachment 3936916

View attachment 3936919

It’s solid. Banging with a hammer yields no weird spots but obviously it’s delaminating and eventually will fail.

It’s become my son’s rig mainly because he’s 16 and over 6’7”. We are rural so it’s mainly just a 10 min to town/school for him but we do use it for all towing, hay pickup, moving etc.

We aren’t in a position to buy anything at the moment but I don’t want us driving something unsafe.

We’ve owned since 2017 and 114k and it currently has 199k and needs timing belt, some suspension work and some more odds and ends.

What does mud say? Completely unsafe? Run it and watch it? Sell it while it still has some value and put towards a different one ?

If it is solid, now is the time to dig that crap out. In the commercial truck world, I had one rig with a double walled frame design like that and when the buildup would get to a certain point(causing a failed inspection) they would literally airhammer the rust out to get down to bare metal. They just leave it like that, but at that point I would rust treat the metal with inhibitors, then spray some rust paint over the area.

Granted, the commercial truck frame is a lot thicker, so airhammering might be a little overkill, but perhaps if you can lessen the air pressure to make the chiseling softer? But at the end of the day, clean it out and seal it up is the best answer, otherwise it will just continue until it is no longer solid.

 

[svsisu]

If it is solid, now is the time to dig that crap out. In the commercial truck world, I had one rig with a double walled frame design like that and when the buildup would get to a certain point(causing a failed inspection) they would literally airhammer the rust out to get down to bare metal. They just leave it like that, but at that point I would rust treat the metal with inhibitors, then spray some rust paint over the area.

Granted, the commercial truck frame is a lot thicker, so airhammering might be a little overkill, but perhaps if you can lessen the air pressure to make the chiseling softer? But at the end of the day, clean it out and seal it up is the best answer, otherwise it will just continue until it is no longer solid.

Good advice, and those frames are pretty thick. A needle gun would accomplish the same and wouldn’t be as intense as an air hammer.

 

[dogfishlake]

Other tech or sadness…feel free to chime in.

I was working on our 2006 tundra double cab, replacing an O2 sensor and happened to look at the back of the frame…

I knew it has had surface rust but I have been watching it on and off for years. I haven’t really looked that hard in a little while.

View attachment 3936917
View attachment 3936916

View attachment 3936919

It’s solid. Banging with a hammer yields no weird spots but obviously it’s delaminating and eventually will fail.

It’s become my son’s rig mainly because he’s 16 and over 6’7”. We are rural so it’s mainly just a 10 min to town/school for him but we do use it for all towing, hay pickup, moving etc.

We aren’t in a position to buy anything at the moment but I don’t want us driving something unsafe.

We’ve owned since 2017 and 114k and it currently has 199k and needs timing belt, some suspension work and some more odds and ends.

What does mud say? Completely unsafe? Run it and watch it? Sell it while it still has some value and put towards a different one ?

That is totally safe IMO. Just getting it stopped will be the big thing. That would be a great candidate for Fluid Film.

 

[FJBen]

I can send you photos of my 99 Tacoma’s frame that would give you nightmares. I’ve put a couple of safety caps on it in places, and need to do another. I may be naive but I don’t have much concern driving it. On the other hand, my girlfriend’s Tacoma isn’t safe to move to the end of the driveway. It’s what we call a “fishing car”. By comparison, yours doesn’t look bad at all.

appreciate the feedback. I know it’s nowhere near as bad as many others online, I just wanted to make sure.

If it is solid, now is the time to dig that crap out. In the commercial truck world, I had one rig with a double walled frame design like that and when the buildup would get to a certain point(causing a failed inspection) they would literally airhammer the rust out to get down to bare metal. They just leave it like that, but at that point I would rust treat the metal with inhibitors, then spray some rust paint over the area.

Granted, the commercial truck frame is a lot thicker, so airhammering might be a little overkill, but perhaps if you can lessen the air pressure to make the chiseling softer? But at the end of the day, clean it out and seal it up is the best answer, otherwise it will just continue until it is no longer solid.

Great idea. There’s not a lot in there so I might be able to do it by hand. It’s really all surface so fluid film might do it all besides the delam spot.

Maybe some rust bullet ?

That is totally safe IMO. Just getting it stopped will be the big thing. That would be a great candidate for Fluid Film.

Fluid film it is!

Western state people rust issues right?

 

[Rigster]

appreciate the feedback. I know it’s nowhere near as bad as many others online, I just wanted to make sure.



Great idea. There’s not a lot in there so I might be able to do it by hand. It’s really all surface so fluid film might do it all besides the delam spot.

Maybe some rust bullet ?


Fluid film it is!

Western state people rust issues right?

If you have an oscillating tool, a stainless blade on it would do wonders for the tighter spots, and for deeper in where the frame joins together again.

Harbour frieght has a decent cordless one for not too much (think it is Bauer?) Or you can go caveman with a selection of picks and what not.

 

[bj70bc]

i cut fluid film with atf heat it up and pump spray it, liberally.

 

[FJBen]

Another oil change time.

Test drive back out to the beach, my daughter driving in this photo. We were heading to snag a campspot for my son and his friend. weather was amazing. 80 degrees, calm as can be at 8:50pm.

New pup enjoying the view.

I couldn’t help myself. Sunsetting. Beach.

The wind started to roll in so I put the sides on for the ride back into town as we didn’t want the pup to get blasted.

 

[dogfishlake]

Great photos. Got your "step 6" on hand for the oil change, good work.

 

[FJBen]

Great photos. Got your "step 6" on hand for the oil change, good work.

Always have that on the ready !

 

[FJBen]

And more just for fun.

 

[FJBen]

Intercooler part 22

So I reached out to PDI Intercoolers to see if they have ever done anything with the 13bt. Answer was no as suspected but I did ask what they would sell the intercooler alone for.

$1000 aud for the intercooler and mounting brackets. So $660 USD.

Shipping…$360aud $238US

So I’m not sure it’s worth nearly $900 for an intercooler for me.

@Guyute rig.

He shared the measurements so that’s at least a starting point for a different DIY.

 

[svsisu]

Look at @ofer bruhis troopy build page. I think he found an FMIC on Amazon or eBay and fabbed all his own brackets and tubing. Different engine for sure, but same front end.

I have the PDI, but it’s not installed as you know. I could easily take more measurements and/or photos of the brackets for you if needed. I think you could easily do it for less than what PDI wanted.

 

[FJBen]

Look at @ofer bruhis troopy build page. I think he found an FMIC on Amazon or eBay and fabbed all his own brackets and tubing. Different engine for sure, but same front end.

I have the PDI, but it’s not installed as you know. I could easily take more measurements and/or photos of the brackets for you if needed. I think you could easily do it for less than what PDI wanted.

Thanks I have checked his out, I need to look in more detail. I may hit you up for more measurements.

Still not 100% sure how to snake those pipes up but pretty much no way to easily get around cutting holes in the front.

I need to research a little more how people deal with 8274 winches and off-road lights blocking airflow.

 

[bj70bc]

$1000...too much, go no-name.... make it work
My home-devised turbo and intercooler 'kit' was thousands less than the brand name stuff, and probably right on par as you get to spend where you want to and save where you need to....

 

[coldtaco]

Thanks I have checked his out, I need to look in more detail. I may hit you up for more measurements.

Still not 100% sure how to snake those pipes up but pretty much no way to easily get around cutting holes in the front.

I need to research a little more how people deal with 8274 winches and off-road lights blocking airflow.

I had the 8274 with the ARB bumper on my BJ70 with the 13BT . Don’t remember if I had any aux lights. Never had any overheating issues.

 

[FJBen]

I had the 8274 with the ARB bumper on my BJ70 with the 13BT . Don’t remember if I had any aux lights. Never had any overheating issues.

That’s good to know. That’s about as close as you can het to my setup.

 

[cruiserdan]

BJ70 with the 13BT .

Retrofit? There were no BJ70s with factory-fitted 13BT powerplants.

If it was an SWB, it would be a BJ71. If BJ74, it would be RHD-only.