1986 BJ73 - Spanish Import to US - Under New Management
- Thread starter elkaholic
- Start date
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Phares
Mostly Useless
Glad I was able to help! That is one sweet jeep you've got! 
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
Euro spec Kia, dumb@ss.Glad I was able to help! That is one sweet jeep you've got!
...via IH8MUD app
fireball
SILVER Star
Any update on the LED dome light?
Thanks again for posting the wiring diagram, just printed it out to start figuring out all my wiring needs. LED light bar, fog lights, aux reverse lights, 24v fridge socket, switches, etc, oh my!
Thanks again for posting the wiring diagram, just printed it out to start figuring out all my wiring needs. LED light bar, fog lights, aux reverse lights, 24v fridge socket, switches, etc, oh my!
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
PM sent
fireball
SILVER Star
Hi Sam,
I was rereading your electrical work writeup as I'm planning all the wiring upgrades to my truck and had some questions. If you'd like me to delete and do this via PM to not clutter your build thread please advise and I'll do so!
Your schematic shows the majority of items to be 12v switched. So you have the power feeding the 24-12v big convertor as switched power. For my setup, I'd like a number of things to be constant...the CB radio, a dual USB plug, etc. So would I need to get a second large convertor? One for switched and one for constant?
Also, the relay you have to use for stereo illumination, would that feed be good to use across stereo and auxiliary gauges?
Last question! I was hoping to use Contura LED switches, but I don't think the bulbs are rated for 12V. Any idea how to handle that? Most of the switches have a dependent and independent light. So the independent light could be tied into the relay for illumination noted above. But the dependent light would have 24V going across it if it were controlling a 24V device, which I don't think would work.
I'm OK with a little bit of electrical work, but in this case the 24V system puts things above my pay grade!
Thanks in advance for any insight or assistance!
I was rereading your electrical work writeup as I'm planning all the wiring upgrades to my truck and had some questions. If you'd like me to delete and do this via PM to not clutter your build thread please advise and I'll do so!
Your schematic shows the majority of items to be 12v switched. So you have the power feeding the 24-12v big convertor as switched power. For my setup, I'd like a number of things to be constant...the CB radio, a dual USB plug, etc. So would I need to get a second large convertor? One for switched and one for constant?
Also, the relay you have to use for stereo illumination, would that feed be good to use across stereo and auxiliary gauges?
Last question! I was hoping to use Contura LED switches, but I don't think the bulbs are rated for 12V. Any idea how to handle that? Most of the switches have a dependent and independent light. So the independent light could be tied into the relay for illumination noted above. But the dependent light would have 24V going across it if it were controlling a 24V device, which I don't think would work.
I'm OK with a little bit of electrical work, but in this case the 24V system puts things above my pay grade!
Thanks in advance for any insight or assistance!
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
- Thread starter
- #251
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
That would be the way I would do it. The issue with 12V from 24V is that even idle, most converters draw a little power. I would segregate the loads to:
1) Items that you want switched with the ignition
2) Items you want always hot
3) Items that are somewhere between
Figure out the total loads for each group and size the converters for those loads. The first and second are easy ... the third - not so much. I would install a manual switch / relay combination between 24V + and the converter for the loads for 3 above.
It should be. Think of it as a 12V source that is only active when the instrument panel lights are on. If I go with 12v gauges, I will do exactly this and tap off of that relay and add a rheostat to control brightness of the auxiliary gauges.
There are a couple of ways to do this. With a little work, you can find relays that will switch 24V but only require 12V to activate them. Then you can use the 12V subsystem to switch 24V loads through relays. This keeps all the power through the switches at 12V. This is the opposite of how I use the relay to send 12V positive to the light sense for the stereo.
Alternatively, you can by the covers from OTRATTW and order Carling Contura switch bodies. See http://marketing.carlingtech.com/e_catalogs/switch/ starting at page 24. Page 52 has the specs for ordering. Once you figure out what layout you want, then you can spec the switch and possibly find what you need via your favorite search engine. Carling does make some 24V switches with 24V illumination.
As far as the LED switches go, I have used them in the past with poor results on the lighting side. The LEDs do not fare vary well with voltage surges that typically occur if you have the switch on then crank the motor ... my $0.02
It does make things a bit more complicated but if you keep the two systems separate, then it is manageable.
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
- Thread starter
- #252
Since I have owned the truck, the RH or passenger side rear view mirror has been bad.... cracked housing causing vibrations and flat glass making view narrow.
NOTE: poor quality iPhone pics follow.
New parts from the mothership
Off with the old
A little cleanup
NOTE: poor quality iPhone pics follow.
New parts from the mothership
Off with the old
A little cleanup
Glad to see you are keepin' this thread tech......
Did you get the LHD version of pass side mirror with convex glass?
JDM mirrors are convex on both sides. I've grown to like that a lot.
For those of us with a rural education, are the objects in the mirror, larger, smaller, or just right? : )
Don't they use these on the 330's?
I have limited experience in such exotics....
My recent orders were for early OEM (small) to replace the '85 units and later OEM (large, aka "Dumbo") mirrors for a possible upgrade. Not sure what market(s) for which these were intended.
Little ones are flat both sides and larger ones are convex both sides. I am going with larger for size, appearance and (as noted by Dan) function. Also, the base on the little ones are plastic while the larger units' are metal. Much more robust all around.
