1986 Lj70 Rust Repair
- Thread starter richmason
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I love it when a plan comes together. Running board fits perfectly. Now I have to drill holes and weld rearmost two nuts and then I can start closing it all up. Quick tool update. I bought a 13” mini belt sander air tool and it is a true game changer. So much easier than trying to get an angle grinder up under the car and in hard to reach places and it is much more focused than my die grinder sanding pads, which allows me to get up into and follow bends in panels. Next topic I need to figure out is proper paint and priming prep. I’ve got a can of weldable primer but it isn’t self-etching so I think more sanding before priming is in order. For the cavity I welded that lower firewall patch into I cleaned it out with a vacumn and sprayed Eastwood rust encapsulator in it. I will follow that with the green Eastwood frame sealer through the factory access holes. I have some 3m brush on seam sealer that I will apply after welding before painting. For under the car I guess I will use a mix of rust encapsulator for old metal I wire brushed the under coating off of and my regular primer for new metal after scuffing the new metal up. Maybe then a rattle can of Eastwood chassis black and spray or brush on rubberized undercoating for the pan and internal rocker. Do I need to use seam sealer on any butt joint I welded or just body filler, which will be used on any smooth surfaces that aren’t on the undercarriage? I don’t think seam sealer can be sanded so I think I answered my own question.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Bondo filler is porous so water can get through of topcoat of paint is breached. I think there are other fillers that are waterproof. I plan to use something like the JB Weld brand body filler on my MG.
Looks awesome. You need to work on my 1988 BJ73. ;<)
- Thread starter
- #25
Had a great morning on the car figuring out the final pieces before I weld the outer rocker on. I didn’t get any pictures but I had a 1” by 1” or so patch I needed to get in the tub horn with a tricky curve before I sealed it up with last small inner rocker piece. Figured out a new technique where I tacked the patch on in a few places and then hammered with pointy body hammer to get it to fit the curve. Two weeks ago I would have left the gap and struggled with blow through for hours after. Growth is good.
- Thread starter
- #26
Had a great morning on the car figuring out the final pieces before I weld the outer rocker on. I didn’t get any pictures but I had a 1” by 1” or so patch I needed to get in the tub horn with a tricky curve before I sealed it up with last small inner rocker piece. Figured out a new technique where I tacked the patch on in a few places and then hammered with pointy body hammer to get it to fit the curve. Two weeks ago I would have left the gap and struggled with blow through for hours afterGrowth is good.
Once I get the other side done and the truck back together we can talk! I’ll do a lot for cold beer and good conversation.
- Thread starter
- #27
And yes I am still a terrible welder! Takes me 3 or 4 passes to get it filled in all the way.
- Thread starter
- #28
Big day. Seam sealer came in along with proper weld through primer. I have all of the patches for bolting inner fender on the outer fender and one big patch left on inner fender. I’ve put fender on and off a few times to get things lined up. I could really use a stretcher!!! Outer rocker is on, everything is seam sealed. Next I will put the piece of the door pillar I cut off back on. I don’t have a picture but I am really puzzling over the best way to remake the assembly on the lower rear corner of the outer fender that bolts to the body under the door pillar. Toyota fabricated an elaborate piece of metal that is under the door skin and welded to the lower corner to holder some thread things along with the tab for attaching bottom of fender. I guess I will just weld something directly to the door skin and call it a day.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
When I welded patches on my inner fender and put everything back, the inner had warped some. It made a bad fit at the outer edge of the arch. I used a lot of seam sealer to bodge it.
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- #30
Not much of an update but I put the car back together for the time being while I catch up on some other projects and wait for more metal to arrive so I can make a nice patch for the rear quarter/rear fender liner. Ordered some rattle can paint and clear in 3F4 Toyota code. Found a weld on dent puller in a stash of tools I recently inherited. Time to see what it can do with some of my dents (probably not the door to start).
Sills look awesome. Mine needs 2 sills and 4 fenders. ;<)
- Thread starter
- #32
Drive it on over and we’ll start cutting!
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- #33
I stopped working on the truck for a while after I tried and failed pulling/beating out a dent in the drivers door with my stud welder. I also got a bit discouraged by all of the shapes required to put the various pieces of the inner fender/body back in place. I did buy a stretcher/shrinker last week and just ordered an inner rocker repair piece for the drivers side so I’ll get back on it soon.
@richmason - can you send a pic. Is it factory? I think only the right side is available, yes?
- Thread starter
- #35
I’ll send a pic when I get it. The only place that had it was cruiserparts.net . They also provided my passenger side (right side) part and it was factory.
