Build 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup

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(EDIT: See a couple of posts down... I was on the wrong path...)


So I'm using a throttle cable from the top of the pedal through the firewall to the sniper. My pedal throw is very short. Has anyone done anything to mitigate that problem?
 
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(EDIT: See a couple of posts down... I was on the wrong path...)


I'm thinking of building an extension bracket to move the cable attachment point on the Sniper farther from the pivot point. That should increase the distance the pedal (and cable) needs to move to deliver full range of motion for the throttle lever on the Sniper.
 
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woytovich said:
I'm thinking of building an extension bracket to move the cable attachment point on the Sniper farther from the pivot point. That should increase the distance the pedal (and cable) needs to move to deliver full range of motion for the throttle lever on the Sniper.
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I am running a rod, so I don't have much input here, but could you not just shorten your throttle cable to raise the pedal? As long as you have enough cable to get full response out of your motor you should be good.
 
To get full excursion for the AFI TBI, I built a completely custom FJ40 gas pedal and welded on the foot pad from the '40 OEM pedal. It was easier than trying to modify an OEM pedal. You will have to spend some quality time figuring out the pivot point and relative lengths. And when all is said and done, it has to be comfortable underfoot, so I ended up having to shorten the pedal so the angle of my ankle (when driving) wasn't so uncomfortable.
 
(EDIT: See a couple of posts down... I was on the wrong path...)


Dustin... The issue isn't pedal height the issue is the amount of movement from 0 to 100% throttle on the pedal. When you manually rotate the lever on the sniper the hole where the throttle cable attaches only moves about an inch and a half. Because of the length of the arm on the gas pedal that translates to a short throw on the foot pad of the pedal.
As Steve said it's all about the length of each part of the assembly and how that effects the motion of the throttle lever itself.
 
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woytovich said:
Dustin... The issue isn't pedal height the issue is the amount of movement from 0 to 100% throttle on the pedal. When you manually rotate the lever on the sniper the hole where the throttle cable attaches only moves about an inch and a half. Because of the length of the arm on the gas pedal that translates to a short throw on the foot pad of the pedal.
As Steve said it's all about the length of each part of the assembly and how that effects the motion of the throttle lever itself.
Click to expand...

So can you modify the mount position on the throttle arm on the sniper? mount the cable closer to the pivot for less pedal travel...further out for more...may also be able to modify the stock gas pedal mount location or with a linkage to get the desired travel.
 
Cam:

Cable is currently disconnected from the connector at the Sniper so I can't check right now.

Previously when I stepped on the pedal it moved a couple of inches and stopped way short of the floor. (and it reved the engine headed towards red line) When I cycled the lever on the Sniper it ran through a full range of motion (stop to stop) without the cable connector "bottoming out" on the bracket.... so i THINK that is not the limiting factor.
 
(EDIT: See a couple of posts down... this was not necessary)


Seth S said:
So can you modify the mount position on the throttle arm on the sniper? mount the cable closer to the pivot for less pedal travel...further out for more...may also be able to modify the stock gas pedal mount location or with a linkage to get the desired travel.
Click to expand...


Yes, plan is to build a little "extension plate" to be able to mount the cable connector farther away from the pivot. It'll be a little trial and error to get a satisfactory "length" to that extension.
 
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(EDIT: See a couple of posts down... this was not necessary)


The plan is (more or less) to replace the blue cable path with the dotted orange path by adding a bracket indicated by the solid orange line with a new mounting hole at the end.

Inkedcable_LI.jpg
 
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Mine is higher as well. I used a rod, just like Dustin...except I liked the fit better a little shorter. What I failed to realise that I had moved the pedal upwards in making my rod measurement. I'll be going back in and making a longer rod sometime soon.
 
Well how about that.... I had installed the adapter a hundred eighty degrees out so that the throttle blades would not open all the way! I ttook it all apart swapped around and now I'm in the process of adjusting cable and pedal again but it looks like I'm on the right track now.
Thanks all.
(Looking at the TPS number was the ticket Cam)
 
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Took it for its first drive of any significance today... about 10 minutes or so on local streets. Stopped to get gas and when I tried to restart it it really didn't want to start... I let it sit for a few minutes and then it very reluctantly, very slowly came up to idle.
Thoughts?
 
woytovich said:
Took it for its first drive of any significance today... about 10 minutes or so on local streets. Stopped to get gas and when I tried to restart it it really didn't want to start... I let it sit for a few minutes and then it very reluctantly, very slowly came up to idle.
Thoughts?
Click to expand...

You mean it cranked slowly or it cranked quickly and took a while to fire?
 
Frame mounted fuel pump. LS style filter regulator next to it on the frame.
It was a very low energy faint starting to run feeling that just faded away.
The starter cranks fine.
I've never heard any thing like it.
 
poor starting and slow accel point me to fuel supply issues. Possibly a clogged filter, poor pump performance, bad pressure regulator etc.
 
My experience has been that these definitely benefit from the full priming sequence, which takes several seconds to complete. Even then it sometimes doesn’t “catch” when you start it. Not at all like a cold carb though, but you can’t always just turn the key and start.

Once started, it should run great instantly.
 
FJ60Cam said:
My experience has been that these definitely benefit from the full priming sequence, which takes several seconds to complete. Even then it sometimes doesn’t “catch” when you start it. Not at all like a cold carb though, but you can’t always just turn the key and start.

Once started, it should run great instantly.
Click to expand...

By it doesn't "catch" do you mean it just keeps cranking, and if its not like a cold carb how bad could it really be? And thanks for the adapter @FJ60Cam, I should be getting it this Saturday.
 
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