Builds 1985 FJ60 -> 6.0 Liter LS Swap Build Thread (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Threads
10
Messages
94
Hey Guys.

Some of you may remember or be familiar with my FJ62 that I picked up just over two years ago.

fj62-arb-bumper-old-man-emu-lift-kit.jpg


toyota-land-cruiser-fj62-offroad-overland-truck-lifted-bumpers.jpg


I picked it up as a stock truck, and really enjoyed turning it into something of my own. We had some ups and downs, with it getting stolen last spring... It was recovered, but missing a lot of the goodies. Luckily, I got most of the stuff back another 4-5 months later. But then, as my bad luck truck would have it, it was hit by a hotrodding 17 year old kid in his Honda.

16123535_1707321369598101_923119000261492736_n.jpg


The damage is honestly pretty minimal. I've bought a new fender, core support, valence, and inner fender, as well as the steering parts to fix it, once insurance gives me the go-ahead. The wreck happened on Jan 28th, and I'm still getting strung along...

Overall, the truck has just been bad luck, although it has also been monumentally capable and reliable. It's solely responsible for what I would now call an undying love for the 60-series Land Cruiser, and following the accident, I knew I had to get another. The FJ62, while completely fixable, will still suffer from rust in places, and while I loved the truck, in the end, I knew I'd want to make a change. So, with the FJ62 crunched and waiting on insurance to do its thing, I set out to find a replacement.

fj60-toyota-land-cruiser-stanceworks-v8-ls-lq4-swap.jpg


My list of requirements was relatively short, although a tall order when it comes to classic 60-series trucks. I wanted a tan one - my favorite color of the body style, and classically Toyota. That part was somewhat easy... while FJ62s were never sold in tan, the FJ60. The only other requirement was no rust. Absolutely no rust. I wanted a truck that was completely clean, and while that shouldn't be too hard for a mid '80s vehicle in CA, 60-series Land Cruisers are renowned for two things: their off road prowess, and their ability to rust in any climate. I got lucky - I found an '85 FJ60 being sold by a lifelong Land Cruiser lover. He was the second owner, having bought it 26 years ago. He didn't baby it - it was driven to and from his ranch for two decades, but luckily for me, the truck was garage kept, and lived in the high desert, meaning moisture never reached the nooks and crannies of the truck. This one was absolutely rust free: easily the most rust free example I've come across, and perhaps one of the most rust-free trucks out there, aside from the few "bubble cars." The roof rails are spotless, as are the arches, the pans, the frame, everything. I really lucked out.

fj60-tan-toyota-land-cruiser-v8-swap.jpg


fj60-no-cylinder-head.jpg


With affinity for these trucks at an all time high, their prices are through the roof. For me, luck came in the form of a dead engine. While the truck's bones were solid, the cylinder head had cracked three years ago, and it had sat motionless ever since. I bought the truck not running at a price that was more than agreeable, dead set on transforming it into something daily-driver friendly, powerful, economic, and badass, to be frank. I wanted a truck that could tow my cars to the track, get itself out of its own way on the freeway, and that could manage more than 12MPG downhill. The 2F and 3FE engines of the 60 series here in America are phenomenal motors - some of the most reliable, indestructible motors ever built - but they produce about 140 horsepower, and can struggle to make it up the slightest of hills when not in 4-Low.

lq4-ls1-ls-v8-vortec-fj60-swap.jpg


My solution is with the tried and true: I'm partway through swapping in a 6-liter Chevy LS. The motor is an LQ4, pulled from a Chevy 2500 Express van with just 70,000 miles. She'll make more than enough to tow the BMW to the track, or to make for a comfortable cross-country drive.

fj60-ls1-lq4-6-liter-v8-4l65e-4l60e-swap-advance-adapters.jpg


Making the engine work in the chassis isn't all too difficult on paper, with a few important components needed to mate things together. The biggest on the list is a transmission-to-transfer case adapter, which will mate my brand new built-up 4L65E automatic up to the FJ60's stock transfer case. Although the FJ60 was originally a manual, I opted to swap to automatic, as when finished, this truck will be a daily driver, and an off road rig.

fj60-transfer-case-rebuild.jpg


fj60-toyota-landcruiser-transfer-case-gear-stacks.jpg


I've gone through and have been replacing and rebuilding all of the components as the swap has progressed. A complete transfer case tear down and rebuild was first on the list, followed by assembling the adapter housing, mating it to the new transmission, and then to the 6-liter itself. A good bit of fabrication has been needed to actually mount the engine into the truck, but thankfully, I've knocked that out already. To be completely honest, it's more work than I anticipated. I've done plenty of swaps before, but no one seems to really talk about clearance for the front driveshaft to the transmission, exhaust, and to the oil pan itself. It's taken a lot of work to get everything to fit - I know I've got my engine sitting a bit further forward than is traditional, but it still seems surprising what it has taken to make sure everything will work correctly, as if it were factory.

fj60-oil-pan-modification-v8-ls-lq4.jpg


Things like mating the FJ60 fuel system to the V8, or hooking up the power steering, are most of what remains. A small bit of wiring lies ahead of me, but all in all, the swap is nearing completion, and once finished, I excitedly get to move on to fitting the truck with new forged and 34" Nitto tires.

fuel-pump-inline-ls-swap.jpg


headers-advance-adapters-ls1-lq4-fj60.jpg


Once I finish the swap up, I'll move some of the goodies, like the rear bumper, lights, winch, etc, over from the FJ62 before I post it for sale.

Since this is a build thread and aesthetics aren't the most important thing in the world, I'll post some cell phone pics as I finish up the swap. I'm hoping to fire it up and test drive it this weekend.

chloe-german-shepherd-fj60-stanceworks.jpg
 
Thanks everyone! I got it fired up yesterday, and am hoping to have everything wrapped up by this weekend. The main hurdle left is I have to drop the exhaust and get it ceramic coated, and that has a week turnaround between the application and the dry time.
 
I'm sad I don't have a lot of progress pics to share, but the truck is finally together and running/driving well.

36353663925_53216389cf_o.jpg


I pulled my front and rear bumper off my old FJ62, and built a roof rack. The wheels are forged Fifteen52 Turbomac HDs wrapped in 34" Nitto Trail Grapplers.

36353677485_0d20e3c5e3_b.jpg


The truck is running perfect, the AC is blowing ice cold, and I'm really happy with how its coming together, save for a bit of noise coming from my transfer case, but nothing bad.

I did have a lot of trouble keeping the engine cool immediately following the swap - I jumped lots of hurdles but now have it running in the mid 170s on the freeway, so if anyone ever has any questions I'd be happy to lend any knowledge about it.

I'll be taking it out on my first trip this weekend, so I'll report back with more photos and updates. I build a storage/bed system in the back of the truck that I'm excited to share.

36216884701_da2160aaec_c.jpg
 
post up your cooling solutions....seems like thats a never ending series of questions on v8 swaps.
 
post up your cooling solutions....seems like thats a never ending series of questions on v8 swaps.

My initial cooling setup was a new CSF replacement radiator - a stock 60-series part, but with an extra cooling row. I know a lot of threads suggest this radiator should be adequate for a V8 swap, so I figured it should work fine.

I paired that with two 12" SPAL electric puller fans.

Around town, the truck did pretty well. It never overheated, but it would get its temps up into the 210-220 range, and that was higher than I wanted it to be. That was also here near the ocean, where the temps aren't very hot like they are inland.

I tried a lot of things - spent hours googling about LS cooling systems, their requirements, etc.

Fix #1

One of the first things I realized I set up wrong, and a lot of others may too, is that I had the heater system plumbed incorrectly. The LS has an inlet and an outlet on the water pump for the heater system. The small port is the outlet, the big port is the return.

I had this system plumbed like the 60 series is stock: the inlet to the heater core, and then back. (I took the rear heater out of my system for now because one of the pipes was damaged, but the theory is the same if you keep yours.)

Because the 60 series has a valve, or tap as some call it, to control flow of coolant through the heater core, when it is closed, coolant doesn't flow back to the water pump. This doesn't work well with the LS system, which from the factory, has a bypass for when coolant isn't flowing through the heater.

31N407BJ84L.jpg


I used a heater bypass valve, and you can get them in vacuum or cable-operated.

https://www.amazon.com/Old-Air-Prod...&qid=1501782284&sr=8-8&keywords=heater+bypass

This valve allows coolant to continuously flow through the heater ports of the water pump, and allows flow into the heater core when you decide to use it. If you're crafty, you can hook up the cable powered one to your factory AC unit so that functionality is the same. I was in a bit of a rush, so I used the vacuum unit and powered it with a vacuum solenoid hooked to a switch in my dash.

This fix didn't solve my temp problems, but it helped to get air out of the system, and it may be valuable for someone else, as research showed that this can be a flaw in systems, and can introduce air pocked as one side of the heater system will get sucked dry if you have it plumbed like a stock 60 series and the valve is closed.


Fix #2

Another important component of the LS cooling system is what's called the "Steam Pipe" or "Crossover Pipe." This is a small metal tube that connects the cylinder heads, just underneath the throttle body. Some motors have one at the back as well. Some suggest capping these pipes off is okay, but sources will show it's not. You need to have them! It's crucial.

I had my steam pipe vented to a sealed overflow tank, thinking that as long as it was part of a pressurized system, it was okay. Eventually, after continuously trying to solve my overheating problems, I decided to fix this.

From the factory, the steam pipe is usually vented to one of two places. It's vented into the radiator itself, or into the heater return line (on the Trailblazer SS). The two other common solutions for engine swaps is to tap into the top of the water pump, or to feed it into the upper radiator line.

I went with the upper radiator line, as it means I wouldn't have to drill and tap a water pump if I broke down on the side of the road, nor would I have to modify a radiator if I ever replaced mine. The heater return line is an equally viable option, but as the point of the tube is to vent air, I wanted to keep the line elevated, and it's an upward path to the radiator hose on my truck. I'll add a picture here soon.

I did this fix and noticed a slight decrease in engine temps. Nothing major - but I've read others have solved some major issues with this fix.

Fix #3

This is the big one, and what changed my truck entirely. I was convinced I simply didn't have enough radiator, despite what the internet and forums seemed to suggest. Even a local radiator shop insisted I had enough cooling power.

I went out and bought the biggest dual-pass radiator Griffin sells.

gri-1-58272-x_xl.jpg


Griffin Aluminum Circle Track Radiators 1-58272-X ($350 or so)

It's a 31x19x3" dual pass radiator with oversized tubes. I installed this along with a 160* thermostat, and I've had the average temp of my truck drop more than 50*, as verified by my scan gauge 2.

The temps are more even and steadier, the truck runs cooler than it ever has - averaging right at about 172 on the freeway, with some dips down to 168, and highs up near 175. That's with the AC on, in 80* ambient temps, in CA traffic.

I never would have guessed that pairing would make the difference it has, but in truth I should probably think about going back to a 180* thermostat.

I did modify my core support for more air flow.


Conclusion:

I think it's important to have all of the little things set up right - you can't get to the root of your problems if your LS's cooling system isn't set up correctly. With that said, I can't overstate the importance of a good radiator. My truck is a new machine, and is ready for tow duty to the race track.

Before, my truck would run in the mid 210s once warmed up, and the coolest I ever got it to run down the freeway was 194* for around 10 minutes or so.
With the fixes above, my truck holds in the low 170s, no questions asked.

I hope that helps anyone. I dealt with a lot of other crap in doing this stuff, but those are the big ones. Happy to answer any questions if anyone has them in the future.


 
Although it's a good thing to keep the engine cool, most modern engines are designed to run a specific temperatures. What was the OEM temp for that particular engine? Running it a cooler temps, may cause the ECU to still think it's in warm up mode and be running richer than necessary, affecting your gas mileage.

Just a thought...
 
Although it's a good thing to keep the engine cool, most modern engines are designed to run a specific temperatures. What was the OEM temp for that particular engine? Running it a cooler temps, may cause the ECU to still think it's in warm up mode and be running richer than necessary, affecting your gas mileage.

Just a thought...

That's the job of the thermostat. If your engine is over cooling, the thermostat isn't working properly.

You could have a radiator the size of a barn on a 5.3 LS, or a 2F, or whatever, and the thermostat will make sure the engine is up to temperature.
 
That's the job of the thermostat. If your engine is over cooling, the thermostat isn't working properly.

Agreed. But the point was whether the normal operating temp was within 'specs' for the engine. I think running at sub 180* is a bit cool for an EFI engine.

That being said, I run a 180* stat in my Ford Racing 5.0L that was swapped into my CJ5. I believe the recommendation from Ford Racing for that engine was 195*, but I'd have to check. With aluminum heads, I'm more concerned about warping them, than running a bit rich on the A/F mixture.
 
Nice thread, thanks for the pictures!

What'd you do for the AC idle up?

Also, why an inline fuel pump vs. in tank?

170's sounds cold for that motor. I think 195-200ish is normal but I forget. You might want a different thermostat as colder is not necessarily better.

Lastly, you say you plan to tow, high speed/high loads will wear the thrust washers on the intermediate shaft/gear of the t case prematurely. make sure clearances are correct, and use good gear lube. change it often.
 
Agreed. But the point was whether the normal operating temp was within 'specs' for the engine. I think running at sub 180* is a bit cool for an EFI engine.

That being said, I run a 180* stat in my Ford Racing 5.0L that was swapped into my CJ5. I believe the recommendation from Ford Racing for that engine was 195*, but I'd have to check. With aluminum heads, I'm more concerned about warping them, than running a bit rich on the A/F mixture.

I'm aware it's pretty cool for the motor. As said, I should probably swap out the thermostat for a 180. Stopped and in traffic, the engine runs in the 180s as is though, so I'm not in a rush.

Nice thread, thanks for the pictures!

What'd you do for the AC idle up?

Also, why an inline fuel pump vs. in tank?

170's sounds cold for that motor. I think 195-200ish is normal but I forget. You might want a different thermostat as colder is not necessarily better.

Lastly, you say you plan to tow, high speed/high loads will wear the thrust washers on the intermediate shaft/gear of the t case prematurely. make sure clearances are correct, and use good gear lube. change it often.

I didn't bother with doing anything for the idle up. The engine doesn't mind, I haven't had any troubles so far.
I used an inline fuel pump because it was easier to set up on the 60. It's been working great.

The web and a few other people suggest that 180-200 is the right operating range for this engine. I'm a few degrees cool of that. Swapping thermostats might move me into the higher end of that, so I'm inclined to stay where I'm at.
 
Cool I was just wondering. As you mentioned, it is about the little things.

I'm not sure I've seen a solution to the idle up problem.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom