1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications
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- Thread starter
- #342
i originally was going to install the fuse panels like the first pic
but
clearance issues with the fuel filter, fuel plunger, it was going to be just too tight and the wiring would be a mess
so
a change of plans. i moved them to the corner and modified the battery stand to accompany the idea.
time to sand blast and paint the mount...
i also decided that i needed a way to shut down the new wiring addition to the truck at the fuse panel. each fuse panel is 150A and the rear winch is a 200A, the warn 8274 can pull up to 450A (not much i can do about that so it is direct to the battery)
Cole hersee sells a wicked new product ... a dual relay, full electronic (low draw to activate) 200A capable:
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/197/48521/
it should be here Friday ... getting worked up to get this part of the wiring on the way.
it will be mounted below the fuse panels, not small 6" X 5" X 3" and should fit tight.
i still need to find a place for the 200A battery isolator, i will have to wait till the body is sitting back on the frame for that one.
tomorrow i am off to see a half dozen 1HZ and trannies that are for sale. next update should be Friday.
thanks for checking in ...
but
clearance issues with the fuel filter, fuel plunger, it was going to be just too tight and the wiring would be a mess
so
a change of plans. i moved them to the corner and modified the battery stand to accompany the idea.
time to sand blast and paint the mount...
i also decided that i needed a way to shut down the new wiring addition to the truck at the fuse panel. each fuse panel is 150A and the rear winch is a 200A, the warn 8274 can pull up to 450A (not much i can do about that so it is direct to the battery)
Cole hersee sells a wicked new product ... a dual relay, full electronic (low draw to activate) 200A capable:
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/197/48521/
it should be here Friday ... getting worked up to get this part of the wiring on the way.
it will be mounted below the fuse panels, not small 6" X 5" X 3" and should fit tight.
i still need to find a place for the 200A battery isolator, i will have to wait till the body is sitting back on the frame for that one.
tomorrow i am off to see a half dozen 1HZ and trannies that are for sale. next update should be Friday.
thanks for checking in ...
Last edited:
Can u pm me the link where u search those pictures such as above?
wayne why don't you put one of these for the winch?
http://bluesea.com/products/3000
http://bluesea.com/products/3000
- Thread starter
- #345
master disconnect, i would like a breaker so it kicks should the winch short out.
i am not concerned about drain to the 8274.
but thanks, appreciate the effort.
cheers
i am not concerned about drain to the 8274.
but thanks, appreciate the effort.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #346
search engine: pretty ladies.
collected over the last 12 years, no link.
collected over the last 12 years, no link.
Can u pm me the link where u search those pictures such as above?
Unbelievable attention to detail...
This thread constantly reminds me how mechanically inept I am.
As far as the other photos go .... I only look with one eye.
But it is my good eye.......
This thread constantly reminds me how mechanically inept I am.
As far as the other photos go .... I only look with one eye.
But it is my good eye.......
I hope your wife won't twist ur ear for enjoying Wayne's thread
Wayne, retrofitting the stock dash pod (or whatever that is called) to the dash, with a dashpad that doesn't have the intent for it... are you able to make the dash pod cover sit low enough? Mine has a 1/4" gap (oh, sorry... forget you're in Canada... that's 6.35mm) around the entire pod.
- Thread starter
- #350
yah, the hood sits high on the non-indent factory pad.
you can redrill the mounting hole on the metal reciever and sand off the face or cut a grove into the pad to bring it down flush.
for $470 that a new proper pad costs, i can rework this one.
the original 3 gauge clutster (in excellent shape) is for sale if anyone wants it.
cheers
you can redrill the mounting hole on the metal reciever and sand off the face or cut a grove into the pad to bring it down flush.
for $470 that a new proper pad costs, i can rework this one.
the original 3 gauge clutster (in excellent shape) is for sale if anyone wants it.
cheers
Hello Crushers,
Pardon the delay, i am doing nothing but working.
You mentioned 'Antialumox', or something of the sort. I think you mean 'No-Alox', a compound used to prevent oxidation (i am in the electrical field and get to play with this stuff often). It is very useful to keep on being able to loosen and tighten Al-Al and Al-Cu joints, so its purposefulness (is that a word?) is excellent if dealing with a termination that wants to be worked on after initial installation. Its designed purpose is to prevent oxidation, and that'll solve a lot of issues. I don't know how to get rid of the italics so please pardon my computer-retardedness.
There is another compound, called Kopper Koat or Copper Shield, made by Thomas & Betts, i believe, that is exactly like anti-seize in consistency, however it has excellent conductive characteristics since copper filings are included in the mix (it is copper-coloured). I found it ideal for coating battery posts, before clamping on the cables; if one has issues with powder being formed on battery posts, this stuff is fantastic. It is very expensive, however. I hate fighting to loosen a joint made of aluminium as that material is easy to break. A bush solution i was told about in Africa years ago was to mix Vaseline (cheap and plentiful) with baking soda. You're certain to get a sealing effect at the least.
Pardon the delay, i am doing nothing but working.
You mentioned 'Antialumox', or something of the sort. I think you mean 'No-Alox', a compound used to prevent oxidation (i am in the electrical field and get to play with this stuff often). It is very useful to keep on being able to loosen and tighten Al-Al and Al-Cu joints, so its purposefulness (is that a word?) is excellent if dealing with a termination that wants to be worked on after initial installation. Its designed purpose is to prevent oxidation, and that'll solve a lot of issues. I don't know how to get rid of the italics so please pardon my computer-retardedness.
There is another compound, called Kopper Koat or Copper Shield, made by Thomas & Betts, i believe, that is exactly like anti-seize in consistency, however it has excellent conductive characteristics since copper filings are included in the mix (it is copper-coloured). I found it ideal for coating battery posts, before clamping on the cables; if one has issues with powder being formed on battery posts, this stuff is fantastic. It is very expensive, however. I hate fighting to loosen a joint made of aluminium as that material is easy to break. A bush solution i was told about in Africa years ago was to mix Vaseline (cheap and plentiful) with baking soda. You're certain to get a sealing effect at the least.
- Thread starter
- #352
thanks Nick,
i use copper coat for years and now it has been recommended that i change to nickel coat cause it lasts longe without drying out. :shrug:
Bruce had recommended the Anti Ox stuff so i went and bought a bottle to see how it works.
what i really want is to have a rubber cap that i fit over the bolt after i liberally coat the area with the goop, this would be nice to keep the stuff where it belongs. i have been searching but can't find a supplier.
hopefully i will get a bunch of the electrical completed today.
cheers and thanks for the advice.
i use copper coat for years and now it has been recommended that i change to nickel coat cause it lasts longe without drying out. :shrug:
Bruce had recommended the Anti Ox stuff so i went and bought a bottle to see how it works.
what i really want is to have a rubber cap that i fit over the bolt after i liberally coat the area with the goop, this would be nice to keep the stuff where it belongs. i have been searching but can't find a supplier.
hopefully i will get a bunch of the electrical completed today.
cheers and thanks for the advice.
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- Feb 28, 2005
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When I used to manufacturer sterling trucks, we threw out rubber caps by the bucket full, many many parts come with them to the assembly plant to prevent threaded portions of parts from being damaged in transit, they are typically for 1/2 inch and bigger fasteners tho...
Crushers,
I have never been satisfied with caps as they too easily fall off; ideally they would be threaded soft plastic, but if threaded, they wouldn't get on a hex nut very happily, as well as not covering a crimped-on lug.
I don't know how practical the following would be: sparkies sometimes use splicing tape for certain electrical terminations/connections. Imagine black electrical tape that is, say, half a millimetre thick, soft and able to stretch significantly such that it can be molded. In fact if one wants to remove it, it must be cut off as it tends to form one uniform mass, instead of peeling it off in its layers. It is available in, shall we say, regular tape width (about .5") as well as about two inches wide. Its insulation rating is 600 volts (made by 3M, if there are other manufacturers i don't know), and that is per layer if unstretched.
It would take a little time to work it on but would provide an excellent seal.
In an automotive environment i would say it would not be affected by temperatures (that one i know for certain), and probably be quite impervious to mud, salt, water, all the usual road gak; only physical impact would damage it.
If you're keen and can't locate any, let me know and i'll score you some.
I have never been satisfied with caps as they too easily fall off; ideally they would be threaded soft plastic, but if threaded, they wouldn't get on a hex nut very happily, as well as not covering a crimped-on lug.
I don't know how practical the following would be: sparkies sometimes use splicing tape for certain electrical terminations/connections. Imagine black electrical tape that is, say, half a millimetre thick, soft and able to stretch significantly such that it can be molded. In fact if one wants to remove it, it must be cut off as it tends to form one uniform mass, instead of peeling it off in its layers. It is available in, shall we say, regular tape width (about .5") as well as about two inches wide. Its insulation rating is 600 volts (made by 3M, if there are other manufacturers i don't know), and that is per layer if unstretched.
It would take a little time to work it on but would provide an excellent seal.
In an automotive environment i would say it would not be affected by temperatures (that one i know for certain), and probably be quite impervious to mud, salt, water, all the usual road gak; only physical impact would damage it.
If you're keen and can't locate any, let me know and i'll score you some.
- Thread starter
- #356
Nick,
shoot me a name and discription and i will see if i can find the stuff here.
the idea is to keep the goop in and the engine bay tidy, with all the wiring that is going on it could end up looking like a grease pit. that won't make me very happy.
cheers and thanks for the idea.
shoot me a name and discription and i will see if i can find the stuff here.
the idea is to keep the goop in and the engine bay tidy, with all the wiring that is going on it could end up looking like a grease pit. that won't make me very happy.
cheers and thanks for the idea.
Crushers,
The manufacturer is 3M; it is simply called splicing tape. I'll look to see if there is a different tag to it from the manufacturer. It is not at all uncommon, and any electrical supplier should have it handy; in your neck of the woods, look for Nedco-Westburne, which is the only one i can think of just now; any electrical supplier will do.
The manufacturer is 3M; it is simply called splicing tape. I'll look to see if there is a different tag to it from the manufacturer. It is not at all uncommon, and any electrical supplier should have it handy; in your neck of the woods, look for Nedco-Westburne, which is the only one i can think of just now; any electrical supplier will do.
- Thread starter
- #358
some new toys arrived this week ...
one of the issues i have had with the 8274 is the rated draw. 400A +, that is huge. for the last 30 years i have did the same as most, hook red to + and the black to - and head off to play.
but
with the investment in this build, the last thing anyone wants is to have a short and an insurance claim for fire.
add to the winch, we have the huge alternator that is putting out 200+ amps. this leads to having the ability to run winches front and rear, invertors, amps, capacitor, air systems, etc etc.
so, i decided to play safe this time around.
the 200A+ alternator will feed the 200A isolator which in turn feeds both the main battery (glow system and starter) and the Aux battery which feeds everything else.
a 400A fuse assembly will come first in line after the Aux battery.
that will feed the 200A system shut down and the Warn 8274 up front and the booster cables (there is also a set of booster cables that feed directly off the alternator (provided by Zena)
which feeds the 2 X 150A fuse panels
the fuse panels will feed the rear winch, dual feed invertor, front winch, lights, idle up for welding, the spool feed welder, the dual stereo amps, fog lamps, air bag power, the snow blower motor, snow blower dual winches (lift and rotate of the chute), all the switches etc etc ... you get the idea.
these two additions to the electrical system arrived. everything needed to finish the electrics SHOULD be here.
one of the issues i have had with the 8274 is the rated draw. 400A +, that is huge. for the last 30 years i have did the same as most, hook red to + and the black to - and head off to play.
but
with the investment in this build, the last thing anyone wants is to have a short and an insurance claim for fire.
add to the winch, we have the huge alternator that is putting out 200+ amps. this leads to having the ability to run winches front and rear, invertors, amps, capacitor, air systems, etc etc.
so, i decided to play safe this time around.
the 200A+ alternator will feed the 200A isolator which in turn feeds both the main battery (glow system and starter) and the Aux battery which feeds everything else.
a 400A fuse assembly will come first in line after the Aux battery.
that will feed the 200A system shut down and the Warn 8274 up front and the booster cables (there is also a set of booster cables that feed directly off the alternator (provided by Zena)
which feeds the 2 X 150A fuse panels
the fuse panels will feed the rear winch, dual feed invertor, front winch, lights, idle up for welding, the spool feed welder, the dual stereo amps, fog lamps, air bag power, the snow blower motor, snow blower dual winches (lift and rotate of the chute), all the switches etc etc ... you get the idea.
these two additions to the electrical system arrived. everything needed to finish the electrics SHOULD be here.
- Thread starter
- #359
i joined together the smaller quick connects, the different colors also means you can't mix them up when connecting in the dark or in a rush.
test fitting the quick connects for the blower assembley, the front winches. then this will be pulled apart and any fabricated parts will be sand blasted and painted.
test fitting the quick connects for the blower assembley, the front winches. then this will be pulled apart and any fabricated parts will be sand blasted and painted.