1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications

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test fitting an idea for the vacuum canister ...
sand blasted to inspect for rust issues and modifications.
some pitting but nothing to concern myself about.
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mods completed
painted and installed.
tight fit but enough clearence for the battery and wiring.

tested the vacuum pump, very quick, quite quiet but extremely sensitive to dirt particles. i tried it using a piece of the original hose. when i first tried it the unit pumped up in seconds and stopped.
when i installed the hose and the canister (testing each piece as i installed to make sure no leaks) it would shut off but start again after about 5 sec and run for a couple and repeat. frustrating.
a call to the supplier and he walked me through the cleaning process.
new hose is on order and should be here in the morning.

i love that pump. an excellent option for those that have the factory pump crap out.
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This build is phenominal - just love it!
 
interesting occurance.
as i am assembling the vacuum system for the brakes and the clutch, i tested each connection for function.
each connection responded very well till i hooked up the brake master. the pump would shut down for 8 sec, fire up for 2 and shut down for 8 and repeat. i just put new seals into the canister and i know i didn't damage it.
as i tested the canister i also tested the other line (clutch line) and it has ample suction occuring even when the pump kicks in. the pump is very sensitive to loss of vacuum.
so for s***s and giggles i plugged the line to the brake and tested the clutch. once again the exact same symtoms.
i took the clutch canister apart to inspect and excellent fit.

of course the factory pump runs all the time so it would be almost impossible to tell a minute leak such as this.

over thought the system ... factory system test, run for 2 minutes and test pedal. here the pedal is hard after 30 sec. the pump is installed so that when the key is off then so is the pump, same as factory principle.

all is well.
 
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the fuel feed for the Wabasto is mounted and finished.
there is more clearance than appears in the pics between the Wabasto exhaust and the surrounding items. even though, i am considering a heat shield for over the top and between it and the fender in places. recommended is 2" between the exhaust and anything flamable ... well ... paint, fuel lines, electrical lines etc.

everything is getting such a tight fit it is starting to remind me of the HZJ40 build. 1/2" clearences or so it seems.

Hy wayne, does your fuel supply for the webasto work like this? I jused to have it like this but had starting trouble all the time...
After creating a seperate suction pipe in the tank the problem was solved...

Mike

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD... fun starts where the road ends
 
Mike,
i have installed a number of these in this configuration. no issues .. so far.
even though the pump can suck the fuel, this setup allows for gravity feed (no air bubbles) in the line.
i left the clear line both at the pump as well as at the wabasto so it is easy to check and see if the fuel is moving properly. it is important that NO air gets trapped in the line. i pushed each fitting till it touched the other one.
cheers
 
Mike,
i have installed a number of these in this configuration. no issues .. so far.
even though the pump can suck the fuel, this setup allows for gravity feed (no air bubbles) in the line.
i left the clear line both at the pump as well as at the wabasto so it is easy to check and see if the fuel is moving properly. it is important that NO air gets trapped in the line. i pushed each fitting till it touched the other one.
cheers

Hi wayne, thank's for the reply... Mayby i should try again.... I'm trying to use as les posible hoses,lines and electric cable in the car..

My whole cruiser is running with 20mtr's of 7pol trailer cable.. No consesions all fitted .

Regards
Mike

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD... fun starts where the road ends
 
it is really important that you use the proper feed line that came with the kit.
 
wiring up the stereo ... i added a sturdier end to the wires which should make for a more definate, long lasting connection.
a wiring mess, i forgot to take pics of this cleaned up so tomorrow i will.
i love these step drills for enlarging holes, no bur, no ripped sheet metal, nice clean hole.
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starting on the 2 1/2" SS exhaust ... sadly i can't get any more elbows till next friday ... damn christmas.
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i contacted Stinger about the capacitor.
i wanted to put it under the hood but since i know crap about capacitors i made the call.
according to the instructions, you wire the capacitor after the battery and from there to the amps. the Guru at Stinger informed me that you can run the capacitor off the side of the battery and the amps off the battery instead of the capacitor... figured i would share this info to those as ignorant as me when it comes to these.
i asked if i could mount it under the hood and he said it isn't water resistant.
so
i didn't like the tiny mounting screw holes and took the unit apart to see if i could drill and tap larger holes and realized this unit is pretty sealed if i added a silicone bead on the covers at each end and around the wire connectors.
and that is what i did. larger more solid mounting holes for the custom bracketry. silicone the ends while it is open. also a dab on the back of the capacitor to keep is from moving and vibrating.
now i can install it near the fuse panel under the hood and instead of 6 feet for 2 gauge + and -, i can run about 1 foot. i can use the fuse panel heavy side for the fuse and once installed is should look fairly tidy.
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Just found this and as always very impressive!

-Daniel Kent
 
Hello Crushers,
Found another product which may be of use to you: 3M 1601.
It is a 'clear insulating sealer', insulating as in electrical. I have not found what voltage it is rated for, but i'd readily assume it would easily be significantly more than 12 volts.
The bonus is that it is a spray-on product.
 
the stereo components finally wired, sound tested (i am glad i wasn't in the shop while that was happening, LOUD but clear)
need sound deadener in the rear door and side panels.
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the SS exhaust is tacked, mounted, ready for someone better than me to weld up.
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the LED lights arrived from Nick today. damn nice lights, excellent service, great pricing ... very happy with the transaction.
the "summer" front bumper will need to be moved out about 4" to allow the low profile 10K winch to fit.
test fitting the 20" driving light. this one is a spot version, i might replace it with a wide beam area. i am thinking i misunderstood the application of this beam design.
tight fit, well, damn near perfect fit.
i needed to modify the mounts that came with the unit since my application is different than most guys, as i cut the mounts i could see the quality of the design, very tough units.
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driving light installed
light force fog lamps installed
winch plate is now designed and off to the shop for manufacture.

i like these bumper designs, especially for this area due to the deer population. if you happen to get hit by a deer (if you say to the insurance "i hit a deer" then you are at fault. if you say "i got hit by a deer" then your insurance will not be affected), the deer will bounce off or go under the truck. the other bumper design like the ARB units can take the legs out from under the deer and flip him into your passenger area where he will thrash and try to get back out.
Where the owner lives and where his cottage is, i can see this being ... practical.
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the SS modified fuel line ...
chassis heading back under ..
i wasn't kidding myself when i thought that everything was going to be tight ...
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installing the work lights around the roof rack.
there is one 8* spot at the back, the rest are 120* floods
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