1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications
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Hey Wayne,
Did you consider a serpentine belt solution for all the belt driven accessories on this engine? On my project I want to replace the Power Steering pump with a proper high volume hydraulic pump steering, brakes and winching and I know from my experience with TippyR that a single belt definitely won't do, so I am looking at double belts such as you've done here for the welding alternator... or a serpentine solution.
If you decided against a serpentine solution, why...
Did you consider a serpentine belt solution for all the belt driven accessories on this engine? On my project I want to replace the Power Steering pump with a proper high volume hydraulic pump steering, brakes and winching and I know from my experience with TippyR that a single belt definitely won't do, so I am looking at double belts such as you've done here for the welding alternator... or a serpentine solution.
If you decided against a serpentine solution, why...
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- #304
slip - the 200A alternator requires the 2 V/belts and they can't be a solid belt but a cog belt due to the load. a solid belt slips and the cog allows for full traction.
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- #305
thats the stuff, i couldn't remember the name.
thanks for the link.
thanks for the link.
I think this is a very similar product,mainly white lithium grease.Can be found at most automotive stores as well as Acklands .Been using it for over 20 years, great stuff.
http://www.Lubriplate.com/products/.../lubriplate-No-105-Motor-Assembly-Grease.aspx
Beautiful job Wayne on the truck and the women...
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- #306
to clarify,
there was a post on Mud where "fancy ass bolts" were being used in this build.
The reason for the SS bolts in this build is directly related to the trucks use. This is a winter DD/snow blower/work truck. Winter in Ontario is a time of salt and chemical application to the roads. Anyone that lives here and drives their vehicles in the winter know what i am referring to, rust.
the bolts on this truck were rusted, the body was rusted, the frame was rusted. while rebuilding, i have gone to great lengths to try and postpone the reoccurance of this rust. Sand blasting and PC/paint everything that is going back on. rust proofing spray inside the frame and body, into every crevice. since the bolts were rusted and pitted the decision to replace those that are not stress related with SS just made sense. they were not used for "pretty" but for function.
same with antiseize on EVERY thread, to allow for ease of removal down the road. Rust in Ontario is not a pleasant, it is invasive, a cancer for metal.
on with the build ...
the wabasto hot out insulated return line ... a full 3/4" line in and out of the block should make for quick engine warm ups even in the nastiest cold mornings.
there was a post on Mud where "fancy ass bolts" were being used in this build.
The reason for the SS bolts in this build is directly related to the trucks use. This is a winter DD/snow blower/work truck. Winter in Ontario is a time of salt and chemical application to the roads. Anyone that lives here and drives their vehicles in the winter know what i am referring to, rust.
the bolts on this truck were rusted, the body was rusted, the frame was rusted. while rebuilding, i have gone to great lengths to try and postpone the reoccurance of this rust. Sand blasting and PC/paint everything that is going back on. rust proofing spray inside the frame and body, into every crevice. since the bolts were rusted and pitted the decision to replace those that are not stress related with SS just made sense. they were not used for "pretty" but for function.
same with antiseize on EVERY thread, to allow for ease of removal down the road. Rust in Ontario is not a pleasant, it is invasive, a cancer for metal.
on with the build ...
the wabasto hot out insulated return line ... a full 3/4" line in and out of the block should make for quick engine warm ups even in the nastiest cold mornings.
- Thread starter
- #307
Ryan found this really nice water pipe wrap. not only is it sticky joint to joint edge but it also has a rubber "tape" that goes over the joint and once applied it doesn't come off.
the inlet and outlet are placed level and should be directly across from the wabasto heater ... if i figured properly.
the inlet and outlet are placed level and should be directly across from the wabasto heater ... if i figured properly.
I know Land Rover used " Easter egg blue " to paint many of their 2.25 liter engines
( including my restored '67 Series 2A ). Does Land Cruiser do the same or was the color your personal choice?
( including my restored '67 Series 2A ). Does Land Cruiser do the same or was the color your personal choice?
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- #314
this engine bay is very tight now with the turbo, remote vacumm pump, drier for the air system, all the electrical, dual batteries, snorkel inlet and factory air canister, York, big ass alternator, etc etc so i had an idea where i wanted the Wabasto, under the brake and clutch masters. i have never installed here before and new it would be tight.
mark where the outer of each item is located on the firewall. remove brake and clutch masters.
hold in place ... upright is too tall, laying flat will be tight.
this area is well protected from road grime, stones etc ... lets see what happens.
mark where the outer of each item is located on the firewall. remove brake and clutch masters.
hold in place ... upright is too tall, laying flat will be tight.
this area is well protected from road grime, stones etc ... lets see what happens.
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- #317
install the electric fuel pump onto the housing
install lengths of 3/4" hose
test fit ... some mods needed but all in all i am happy with the location.
still need to mount the exhaust piping away from elec, paint, fuel, etc and in the direction of road travel.
install lengths of 3/4" hose
test fit ... some mods needed but all in all i am happy with the location.
still need to mount the exhaust piping away from elec, paint, fuel, etc and in the direction of road travel.
The block color isn't my favorite but she looks great all put together and in the frame. I think you mentioned the block color would help spot leaks which I think it will. The frame color is growing on me.
Love the insulated line for the Webasto. Post up the brand of that insulation if you get a moment. I'd like to have it for reference when I get to a Webasto install.
Keep it up, its looking real nice.
Oh, and given the choice I'd go for comfort
, the other one is always at the gym....
Love the insulated line for the Webasto. Post up the brand of that insulation if you get a moment. I'd like to have it for reference when I get to a Webasto install.
Keep it up, its looking real nice.
Oh, and given the choice I'd go for comfort
, the other one is always at the gym....
- Thread starter
- #319
i changed the location of the fuel pump and filter. where i had the filter and pump was too close to the exhaust routing and would be a bugger to change the filter.
since i am making a new dual battery holder tray, i will make mounting tabs for the pump and filter off the side. this will make for an easier time finding the filter, straighter flow for the fuel to the heater and keep it all a respectable distance from the hot exhaust pipe.
next up was gutting the dash, pulling out the old redundant pieces of wiring, cutting the plastic and temp placing of the controller for the timer.
at this point i might as well stick with the dash wiring for the 6 gauges and numerous switches.
i will have to clean up the surround ...
since i am making a new dual battery holder tray, i will make mounting tabs for the pump and filter off the side. this will make for an easier time finding the filter, straighter flow for the fuel to the heater and keep it all a respectable distance from the hot exhaust pipe.
next up was gutting the dash, pulling out the old redundant pieces of wiring, cutting the plastic and temp placing of the controller for the timer.
at this point i might as well stick with the dash wiring for the 6 gauges and numerous switches.
i will have to clean up the surround ...
