1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications

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finally, a short update.
i slipped a couple weeks back and landed on the tail bone. it hurts like hell. hurts to stand too long, hurts to sit, hurts to lay down. the hours in the shop has been cut down ...
add to that, my help has a second job at UPS and he is working his way to driver and being it is Christmas time i have basically lost him for most of the last 2 weeks and all dec.
then add to that computer got a cold ...
it has been a s***ty couple weeks and looks that way for the next few.
since i am on wiring, a lot of time gets consumed with little to show for it.

you wanted the part number for the heater wrap? this stuff is wonderful to work with but don't mess up, it is a one shot deal.

location for the e/locker switches ...
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the cleaned up clutch master with new master
brand new edic motor
the snow plow control panel with internal air system pressure gauge
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thanks to both Peter Straub and Bruce Lowen for their help on the wiring. As some of you know, i am not a fan of wiring.
i believe the ID tag covered with clear shrink wrap was Craig's idea, it is a wicked way to permanently ID the numerous wire ends.
at least if an issue arrises then we can find which wire does what and where.
thanks guys.

the Blue sea fues boxes, i have numerous 4 ga. 2 ga. 1/0 wires heading front and back from this panel as well as the lighter wires so i can run 150 amp fuses right down to the normal auto fuse. this system will be well protected.

i contacted Stinger about the capacitor, i can locate it next to the battery feed to the stereo and i don't have to run the stereo wiring through the capacitor. this i did not know, make wiring that up much easier.
sadly, it is not made for exterior mounting so i need to find a water resistant container. i did find a container that is a very good fit but i suspect i will get some ridicule over the application. :shrug: for $10, it is worth a try.
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the SS air tank ...
getting started on the air lines and heavy elec feed to the rear winch, invertor ...
the invertor is tucked inside the rear door so the wire feeds need to be very flexible so a stiff red 2 amp wire from the front to the rear corner, then coupled to a fexible 4 amp wire into the body.
the rear winch calls for a 4 amp feed but i increased the main like to 1/0 to cut down on the resistance to the rear.
blue air line is feed
yellow is front bags
red is rear bags

once again Airbaggit dropped the ball on designing the system for this truck. the auto leveling system might work great on a small ricer ride but on this it is impractical. Airbaggit will not accept returns so we are stuck with a bunch of extra parts ... bummer.
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the fuse boxes, 200 amp isolator and the HD fuses ... not cheap but should do the job properly.
the vacuum pump for the brake and clutch masters
the air system on this truck is designed for air tool useage as well as the air bag system so a proper dryer will keep the system functional for years to come. air line from the york to the dryer, from there to the blow off, the airbag pressure sensor as well as the air fitting for remote air lines to air tools. air line to take and from the tank to the control unit in the rear side compartment.
from the rear compartment the red goes to the rear bags, the yellow to the front bags ...
pics of these to follow.
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wiring the rear winch, 1/0 into the control box, 4 amp out to the winch.
a cover will be created for the controller
a ground junction bar, winch, invertor has 2 feeds and 2 grounds, then a ground from the bar to the frame...
tight fit with the tank sitting in place.
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the rear wiring
the air bag lines

:hhmm:
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the seat heater came with the small, decent looking switches
sadly there is little room left for them so i took a look at the colehersey catalog and found a double 0n/0ff/0n switch that is marked high/off/low similar to the double in the pic.
i will locate it next to the heater controls and that switch will be moved down on the panel next to the e/locker switches ...

well that is it for now, i hope to have more pics and update at the end of the week.

:cheers: and thanks for following along.
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:lol:
just fawkin with yah,
thanks for the compliment, much appreciated.

we are at the fun part of the build, the reassembly but it is also the most frustrating part at times...
 
Hello Crushers,

Hope you don't mind a suggestion, perhaps you know this already. I'm looking at the exposed electrical terminations, and cannot help but think of them getting eaten, or at the very least seized, by the various salts we get to see in winter, mixed with water, road gak, etc.
There is a product called 'Liquid Electrical Tape' that would insulate those. I figure varnish would work too, if not as an insulator, but to keep the terminations sealed, while not making the nuts any more difficult to undo if the connection wants additions/changes/mods. Just an idea.
What a build, Crushers.
 
the finishing touches have not been applied yet.
the wiring is being test fitted and once all is ready then anticorrosion will be applied to all exposed connections. what exactly will be used has not been finalized. i have some antialumox (or something like that) to applied. liquid tape sounds wicked, got a link?
i have used rubberized tool dip on some parts and it seems to work very well.
thanks for the advice and for reading the thread. much appreciated.
cheers
 
No i don't have a link, so thanks Douglas S. I have a can of it, but it is in storage about 800km south of me.
Grease will seal nicely but is better off on connections that are shielded: from experience it gets washed off, really quickly, when you drive in the rain and through puddles. Which i figure most of us want to do with our Cruisers.
 
one thing that can make me nervous is cutting sheet metal, esp the dash ...
but
it needed to be done.
modified the original mount
mark and cut and clean the holes
test fit the top cover
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