Builds 1977 FJ55 west TN build: family wagon

[mmcinnis]

I'm having a hard time keeping track of all the nice rigs around here. Beautiful truck. Now you've got me thinking??? Can I find a spot for an FJ45?

Yes you can!
Mike

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Well, it's April Fools Day and I've already been duped on that account by @TachedOutOffRoad .

But, today is also OPENING DAY FOR BASEBALL!!!!!!

 

[bobm]

Saw him in Concert

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

My wife and I saw James Taylor and Bonnie Raitt in concert at Fenway and then a few Red Sox games a few days later. That was a fun concert!

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Any suggestions because this blow through is really frustrating! I have no access to the back of what I’m welding. I’ve monkeyed with mig setting and I oscillate from slag pile up and no penetration to blow through. Ughh!!

 

[YukonCruisers]

What size is your wire? I had better luck with 023 wire and start on the good metal and fold pool over to thinner..

 

[Megadoomer]

Keep the amps low and extend the wire a little bit and start with it on the metal. Just pull the trigger with a quick zap and move an inch or so away. I am not an expert but thats the only way I have gotten to work with paper thin metal on the pig.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Thanks guys. I’m using .024. That’s helpful megadoomer. I’ll give that a shot

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

@Calgary40 that’s a great idea. I’ve been trying to use better metal as a base. This is difficult and tedious work. But hope to have a nice pig at the end of it!

 

[J Mack]

Any suggestions

Stop butt welding and start lap welding your patch panels.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Yeah, as usual jmack is right. Butt welding a 1/8” gap is beyond my skill level. I’m going to have to take another run at this later.

 

[Megadoomer]

Yes, I had to lap weld the patch in my floor board. The "good" metal was so thin after I cleaned it up. I swear I could have shaved with it.

 

[RUSH55]

Or how about that 45* thing? Haven’t got to try it yet but sure looked believable.

If you have gaps bigger than what you can bridge, either put a piece of brass behind it or get some thin strips of scrap to fill the void. Small tack weld then move several inches away, like earlier mentioned, and also kinda what you’re already doing judging by the pics. Go slow, keep it cool. Once you’re gaps are 1/2” apart or so, do a succession of tack welds to join them together as opposed to trying to burn a bead. Don’t even try to run a bead. It’ll overheat and blow through every time, not to mention increase the warpage. Tack, cool, tack, cool, etc...

 

[YukonCruisers]

Another option is adhesives with cleicos - not for this application, for straight flat panels with ability to put a backer strip on, but worked remarkably well for my son's 60 series rear quarters.

 

[J Mack]

I’m going to have to take another run at this later.

We’ve all seen photos of vehicles with a couple year old paint job that have bubbling paint around a repair. As our friend @bobm would say “There’s a reason for that”

Stick to lap welds and send me a thank you note in ten years when you pig still looks good.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

The 55 is off for storage until the ‘82 fj40 sells. Then it’s to a local shop for taking the body off, blasting and repair work. The mustard 40 comes home from storage for knuckle rebuild, 2.5” lift, and Saginaw PS. I need a break from body work and the mustard needs work before it’s back to a daily driver like I’ve been using it for.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Parts haul to storage

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

And the work begins!

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Nate and I spent the afternoon building a spare tire carrier for the 45. Paid $30 for a spare tire chain lift from an fj60 and $15 for the channel and 1/4 plate. I hope to paint it and install it tomorrow.

 

[greenbeast]

I'm confused, where did the other 40 come from?