Builds 1975 Red (green) Money pit (2 Viewers)

[65swb45]

Left you a VM on the carb.

 

[LSUfj]

I think your latch, the red handle side, is facing the wrong direction. Need to flip it 180 so that when you close the handle, the pivot point of the red handle is against the bumper. And, I think the hook piece should be on the same plane as the face of the latch mechanism (face of the bumper).

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Got the top all buttoned up. Painted with SEM top coat. Tomorrow I will Mock up the brackets that bolt up to the rear frame cross member, tack them to the bottom and weld up. Paint the bottom and get it installed.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

I will get a better pic tomorrow.. got dark on me.
Got the brackets all welded up. Added the piece on the back to be able to weld the back of the bottom 2x2. Figured I would need that extra support. Looks pretty good after I sanded it down and got it painted.

 

[65swb45]

Your carburetor is done. Should ship Wednesday.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Your carburetor is done. Should ship Wednesday.View attachment 1913892

Woohoo.. can’t wait.
Oh, I was going to mention that I did not have a return fuel line. Is there a “standard” plug for that.?

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Few pics

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Can someone chime in on the most reasonable Hard Top gasket to purchase?
Is $500 OEM really worth it?
Fixing to take top off and replace gutter and gasket, so need some suggestions...

Where should I purchase the gasket??

thanks

 

[65swb45]

Can someone chime in on the most reasonable Hard Top gasket to purchase?
Is $500 OEM really worth it?
Fixing to take top off and replace gutter and gasket, so need some suggestions...

Where should I purchase the gasket??

thanks

Tommy, if I remember correctly, city racer had one for half price.

 

[65swb45]

Roof Weatherstrip / Seal for Land Cruiser FJ40

FJ40 hardtop weatherstripping, also known as "Packing, Roof Drip Moulding". High quality OEM-equivalent replacement for the costly part # 63168-90307. Precisely moulded OEM pattern will provide a perfect seal for your FJ40's hardtop.

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

@65swb45 Mark, I got the carb today. Thank you looks great. Sure it’s gonna run great.
Can you tell me if I can plug these items in red, or connect to what? Currently I only have the one line from the distributor. Please advise. Thanks.
Also, the temp sending unit adapter didn’t make the trip.

 

[65swb45]

Yes, they can all be plugged Tommy. The one above the fat tube [EGR] is the throttle positioner. It is marginally useful during start up. To use it, it needs to be plugged into a small vacuum fitting on the intake manifold so that it has vacuum the moment the engine starts to turn over. Otherwise, just back off the screw that would hold the throttle part way open during start up and it is effectively decommissioned.

As far as the temp sender adapter, my bad. When I read this, I thought that my wife [the shipping department!] may not have read the invoice thoroughly. However when I turned on the computer, I saw that my handwritten note did not make it to the invoice. D'oh. It will be on its way to you tomorrow.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

I did see I a few pics a line running in this config. Or was that there way to plug it? lol

No worries on the Temp adapter.
Thanks for he help!

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Installed the carb a few weeks ago and the stock temp sending unit.
The carb rebuilt from Marks Off road runs like a TOP! Starts right up every time and runs smooth.
And now my stock temp gauge works as well.

Anyone know where I can get a pint of freeborn a Red? Or just go to the local paint shop and they can mix it up?

Need it for the raptor liner I am going to put in the inside floor.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Took the top off last week, looks awesome. Such a big difference in look.
Should be coming off for the summer pretty soon.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

So I had a small leak of tranny fluid coming out of the bottom of the emergency brake.
I replaced the seal that is between it.

It is still leaking.... any ideas?

 

[BeerM3]

Did you notice any grooves on the outside of the drum housing shaft that rides inside the seal? That's a pretty common problem, and from what I've researched (opinions vary) synthetic gear oil is more prone to leaking past that seal no matter how good the surfaces are. There are speedi-sleeves that you can find the part number for in older postings on here readily available at the local parts store if there's enough of a groove for a fingernail to feel. If not, you might try draining and switching to non-synthetic GL-4 first.

Edit: Also slather a little gear oil resistant permatex around the output shaft splines and washer before torquing the stake nut on.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Did you notice any grooves on the outside of the drum housing shaft that rides inside the seal? That's a pretty common problem, and from what I've researched (opinions vary) synthetic gear oil is more prone to leaking past that seal no matter how good the surfaces are. There are speedi-sleeves that you can find the part number for in older postings on here readily available at the local parts store if there's enough of a groove for a fingernail to feel. If not, you might try draining and switching to non-synthetic GL-4 first.

Edit: Also slather a little gear oil resistant permatex around the output shaft splines and washer before torquing the stake nut on.

Honestly I didn’t pay attention to the outside of it... damn.
I am using synthetic, so I will try that first! If that doesn’t work, well crap. Off with the assembly.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[65swb45]

First, you need to try pushing up and pulling down in the driveshaft at the drum. If there is any play, no seal will last. The preload on the main output bearings is out of spec.

If there is no freeplay, you should still consider the dual seal upgrade. Plenty of threads on the subject. I’ve made it a standard procedure in all my rebuilds and services for the last 15 years. Not had one complaint.

If you need one from me (it’s in Section 090 on the website) please note I am closed until May while I take care of a backlog of commitments.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

First, you need to try pushing up and pulling down in the driveshaft at the drum. If there is any play, no seal will last. The preload on the main output bearings is out of spec.

If there is no freeplay, you should still consider the dual seal upgrade. Plenty of threads on the subject. I’ve made it a standard procedure in all my rebuilds and services for the last 15 years. Not had one complaint.

If you need one from me (it’s in Section 090 on the website) please note I am closed until May while I take care of a backlog of commitments.

Thanks Mark. I will check that out as well. I will get with you in May if I need one.