Build 1975 Red (green) Money pit

[Tommy Shumpert]

hey Tommy ,

would this maybe help ?

Vendor - Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Bi-Metalic Spring, Flapper Door , Rotate Shaft Kit

I was just going to remove it and plug each end .

But I had another one I just put in its place.

My question is would the one I put on the engine now make it run any different than the old one?

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

I had to check and re adjust the timing.. for some reason it was off. Just by exchanging that manifold would do that?
And the exhaust pipe turned red hot

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I was just going to remove it and plug each end .

But I had another one I just put in its place.

My question is would the one I put on the engine now make it run any different than the old one?

View attachment 1889576

View attachment 1889579

Sure ,

the replacement manifold u just swapped out was the heat riser flap freely moving & did / do u have the bi-metalic

spring correctly in place ?



if the flapper stuck in the cold engine position , after warm up it would super heat the bottom of the intake up and

cause a drivability issue , atomize the fuel too soon , crAck the bottom of the intake etc .......


all this could happen


also , i see some missing bolts in your photo that sandwich your manifolds together , that would cause issues possibly



your egr block off plate appears to have a broken stud too & nut too


the drivability issue could be a vacuum leak at manifolds to head as well


check all these topics Tommy , make sure everything is tight and solid

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Woohoo got me a Welder...
Now time to learn how to weld.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Well, next project... Purchased the necessary parts. So my first welding project is going to be interesting..
2x2x0.25 tubing, and going to use 3x3 angle iron butted together.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Also rehabbing a non modified OEM wiring harness on my spare time...not in a big rush for that change yet.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Anyone know where I can find this part that screws into the head that fits this temp sending unit? The dia. Of mine is smaller...

 

[LSUfj]

Well, next project... Purchased the necessary parts. So my first welding project is going to be interesting..
2x2x0.25 tubing, and going to use 3x3 angle iron butted together.

I’m looking forward to seeing your progress on this. I want to do something similar. Where did you source the spindles?

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

I’m looking forward to seeing your progress on this. I want to do something similar. Where did you source the spindles?

DIY Custom Bumper Fabrication Package Ruffstuff..
More pics to come. I am going to start this weekend.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

What would cause oil leaking out parking brake? I see fluid slung up above parking brake...

 

[65swb45]

Anyone know where I can find this part that screws into the head that fits this temp sending unit? The dia. Of mine is smaller...

View attachment 1903507

You need the piece that threads into the cylinder head itself? I can throw one in the box with your carburetor.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

You need the piece that threads into the cylinder head itself? I can throw one in the box with your carburetor.

Yes Sir. That's the part. Yes please do. I take it you received the carb. Thanks!!

 

[65swb45]

Yes Sir. That's the part. Yes please do. I take it you received the carb. Thanks!!

Nope, just your VM.

 

[Rustic76]

What would cause oil leaking out parking brake? I see fluid slung up above parking brake...

Just powered through the build. The 40 has turned out great. As for the oil on the parking brake, it’s likely the output seal on the back of the transfer case. If that seal is still good, you may get away with just putting a layer of RTV on the splines just before sliding the parking brake onto the output shaft. Don’t forget to drain the t-case first or you’ll have a big mess on your hands.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Just powered through the build. The 40 has turned out great. As for the oil on the parking brake, it’s likely the output seal on the back of the transfer case. If that seal is still good, you may get away with just putting a layer of RTV on the splines just before sliding the parking brake onto the output shaft. Don’t forget to drain the t-case first or you’ll have a big mess on your hands.

lol... I wondered about that. Noted, drain case! thanks

I do have a new seal, so guess I have something to do Saturday.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Got a lot done yesterday. Cut and drilled the bottom bracket. Welded spindle to the bottom 2x2. Had to take it slow on the drilling, but it worked out perfect.
After I welded the spindle to bottom 2x2 I assembled the spindle to get my length of the top 2x2. Drilled the 2 1/4” hole on both ends and welded it in place to the spindle. The made side it was even all the way across.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

I cut thru the solid spindle on the bottom and went thru one cutting wheel..
Built and drilled the brackets to mount to the rear crossmember.
Sanded it all down and cut the top Swingout in the middle. Need to build the overlap piece for the latch.

Going to work on the tire mount today and mock up the brackets.

Guess I will be painting next weekend.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Took way longer than what I thought.

 

[LSUfj]

Took way longer than what I thought.

This statement sums up everything I do on the 40. Going on 13 years now, and it’s still not done.

Carrier looks great. I’ll reference this when I get around to building mine.

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Latch help please....
The way I have it now, you can just push on the back side and it opens right up.
Do I have the wrong damn latch or what?

I just tacked it for testing...