Looking forward to seeing more of your build.
If you can, try to find out where they found pistons... they’ve been NLA for years.
If you can, try to find out where they found pistons... they’ve been NLA for years.
Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread
- Thread starter JohnJL
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
I will do.
Some more progress today, a couple more coats of glazing and sanding. I have a tube of this 3M Self Levelling Seam Sealer for another restoration, and sure enough the product sheet describes it as "for use in roofing panel 'ditches'" I donr have the gun for these, but I had good results with another tube just squeezing 1/4 at a time of both components into a ziplock freezer sandwich bag, mixed it up in the bag, then cut a corner and applied it like pastry frosting. Yes, I am secure enough to admit I am handy with a frosting bag!
NExt steps...I have a few more longer rivets on the way, then more sanding and filler, then the seam sealer, epifanes poly on the metal and roof, wet sanding, install the headliner (always best done with the roof upside-down!)
- Thread starter
- #83
The top is all filled, blocked and sanded, ready for the polyurethane, seam sealer and finish. First I need delivery of my longer rivets for a few spots where CCOT's rivets are just too short. Those spots are where I added reinforcement to the roof which is why it is thicker in those spots.
I also made up some gussets for the rollbar-to-front cowl.
Finally, I replaced every one of the SAE bolts that Aqualu sends you (!?!?!?Why supply SAE on a Metric truck?!?!?) I took the opportunity to select the heads and fasteners I really wanted anyway.
Oh, not finally, I also installed the rollbar and made up backing plates for all the mounting points. They are 4mm steel plates 7x7.5" mounted to the underside of the body where each of the rollbar plates sit on the body. I am just holding this one in place to illustrate. POR15'd the plates and the body.
I also made up some gussets for the rollbar-to-front cowl.
Finally, I replaced every one of the SAE bolts that Aqualu sends you (!?!?!?Why supply SAE on a Metric truck?!?!?) I took the opportunity to select the heads and fasteners I really wanted anyway.
Oh, not finally, I also installed the rollbar and made up backing plates for all the mounting points. They are 4mm steel plates 7x7.5" mounted to the underside of the body where each of the rollbar plates sit on the body. I am just holding this one in place to illustrate. POR15'd the plates and the body.
- Thread starter
- #86
Got the body and cowl married last night. Body is all straight and mounts properly, roll cage is in with all its backing plates, and the body is bonded to the cowl.
I also refitted the doors to check the gaps, then did final fitting of these gussets I will weld in later tonight.
I also refitted the doors to check the gaps, then did final fitting of these gussets I will weld in later tonight.
- Thread starter
- #87
Frame and body separated and the front axle assembly is in the workshop.
I ran into a bit of difficulty removing the knuckles on the front hub. My landcruiser manuals arent clear on the procedure and all the youtube videos are for 76+...do the studs with the conical washers have to come out of the knuckle to remove the stub axles? I have the conical washers out of the knuckles and the steering arm off the studs, and the 10mm head bolts off the inside of the knuckle seal plates...any help on this is appreciated!
I ran into a bit of difficulty removing the knuckles on the front hub. My landcruiser manuals arent clear on the procedure and all the youtube videos are for 76+...do the studs with the conical washers have to come out of the knuckle to remove the stub axles? I have the conical washers out of the knuckles and the steering arm off the studs, and the 10mm head bolts off the inside of the knuckle seal plates...any help on this is appreciated!
Youve still got cone washers in the bottom cap. Get those out, slide your birf/axle out and then youll be able to come in from the top with a brass drift to pop it out. Make sure you keep your shims in the right order for each location. I will zip tie them to the cap or arm that they belong to.
Just the cone washers.
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks a lot. I got one side off, though I forget if it was the upper or lowerbearing place backed out first. The second side with the steering arm on it doesnt want either the upper with the arm or the lower plate back out more than1/4". The plates actually wiggle but I cant get them backed off the studs enough to get the bearing backed out and release the knuckle.
Also, can anyone confirm what exactly I have for axles here? I have no reason to believe they are stock 1974, they are course spline on the outside, fine inboard. They appear in perfect condition. Not a mark or discoloration anywhere.
Thanks!
Also, can anyone confirm what exactly I have for axles here? I have no reason to believe they are stock 1974, they are course spline on the outside, fine inboard. They appear in perfect condition. Not a mark or discoloration anywhere.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #93
OK, I am stumped. My googl and search skills must be slipping....how do you get this hub off? It doesnt look like any pics I can find, and there are no obvious bolts to remove, other than the inboard brake backing plate/axle housing bolts.
I am fairly sure this is a stock 1974 FJ40 original read axle. I installed an ezlocker in it years ago and it worked as advertised.
Thanks!
I am fairly sure this is a stock 1974 FJ40 original read axle. I installed an ezlocker in it years ago and it worked as advertised.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #94
Pull the diff cover, remove spacer block, push axles towards centre 1/4”, remove C-clips, and pull axles outward.
- Thread starter
- #97
I found this and am attempting a reverse installation, but if anyone wants to pitch in with tips please do!
FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction
FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction
- Thread starter
- #98
Pulled the pin out and removed all the springs. I can push and pull the axles in and out and can move the axles, housing and locker all independently but I cant see any room to catch a c-clip around the axle. Does the short-end bearing retainer cap need to come off? Its never removed in the ezlocker ih8mud installation instructions link above. Also those instructions show a 45 degree screw going into the short side housing that mine doesnt have.
Here it is with the pin and springs all removed...thanks for any help!
Here it is with the pin and springs all removed...thanks for any help!
I used to have a ez lower but don't remember how to install it. Hopefully someone will chime in.
