Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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I’ve seen it mentioned T302 Ivory Shell was the bezel and Lid paint color. I believe this.

Some go with T12 Cygnus. Make sure the mix doesn’t have a yellow hue. They stick out like a sore thumb:eek:.
I prefer a lid paint that is a bit too white versus yellowish.

Pulled the lid today

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Bezel is 033 white 2K epoxy shot from a spaymax can.

Door limiters were shot with Omni 2k epoxy in T12 Cygnus with an HVLP gun. The omni has a bit of a greenish tint to my eyes. It isn’t as apparent in the photo.

Other two peices are front door headers off a Cygnus 71. Headers were seperated to expose original OEM paint untouched by sunlight.

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I kinda like the 033
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Not the best picture to get feel for 033 white. It’s all I have for now.
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Wow, thanks. Are the rivets supposed to stand proud? Mine did but they also had some cracking so I thought they had pushed up. Did the rivets stand proud like yours above?
 
The 5 that hold the windshield bracket do. You would really have to feather out some filler to hide them. The filler would need to be pretty flexible. I’m sure it’s been done.
 
Is it gelcoat, single stage or something else? My roof seems to have been repaired before. There are 2 different kinds of rivets, one had ~.65" heads on the top side, most are smaller ~.25" heads. It seems like either really thick gelcoat was flowed out or body filler/glaze was used to fill in the gutter channel and over the rivet heads. After that someone squirted some silicon bathroom clear cauking. The roof itself is in really good shape, as is the metal frame. Tonight I have been scraping out around the rivets on the top side. Tomorrow if I am lucky with the weather and family schedule I will media blast the roof metal and prime it, and pop out the rivets. I plan to reinforce a few sections of the roof where the rivets are close or on the edge, and around the brace to try and prevent cracking in the future.

So the roof finish, is that gelcoat, paint or ? Whats th OEM finish in the gutters? Do the rivets show in the gutters, or are they flowed over with paint/gel/filler/glaze?

Thanks!

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Yeah it was gelcoat. Many who seem to be competent, have said single stage paint is the way to go. The majority of these type restorations look to be high quality. Don’t care for the yellowish colors though:)

Have seen mudders say they did their own gel-coat. Have not seen pictures though.

My guess is just the tip of the gutter rivets where exposed. Not sure though. I probably overfilled the gutter. The level is just below the 4 spout cutouts on the roof corners.

My windshield brace/mount had flat top rivets. Gutter were domed

If your metal channel is in good shape, you could just leave it. Sand the metal in place, scuff the gutter and bond it with the SEM self leveling epoxy. I have a gun you’re welcome to borrow.
 
Thanks guys. After blasting the roof gutter is eaten away in a few spots and thin in others. I want to be able to support some gear on the roof rack, its seems wise to replace amd perhaps even reinforce where the feet of the expedition rack mount.

Best sources for new gutters?

Also I ordered 3" springs from Alcan yesterday.
 
Ordered 3/4 tub from Aqualu today. I will try to keep my stock transmission hump as I am keeping my original cowl and 20 gal tank.

Also ordered roof gutter panels fron CCOT. I plan to reinforce them to support a roof spotting/tent platform.
 
I thought about pinging you earlier today on a windshield frame. Seller seems to be a really good guy. For Sale - FJ40 Windshield Frame 1968-12/74.

Thanks, its the metal roof frame around the edge of the fiberglass roof that I needed replacing. I ordered one from CCOT with the rivets, headliner and weatehrstripping.

The rust on this truck is weird. The 3/4 tub has terrible patches and rust in lots of places, and the metal roof frame. There is 1 pinhole on a fender and 1/2" diameter hole in the bottom of one ambulance half door, thats it. Every other piece of metal on every other panel, hood, door, everything is solid, good steel. Frame, cowl, everything else is pristine.
 
Ahh...I see now. I glanced at your drivers side rocker that is waffled. I was thinking that was your windshield frame. My bad:slap:

Tractordoc and white stripe both recently did Aqualu’s.
 
Block is back and all measured up. Higher compression oversized pistons, delta camshaft RV. Tonight I scrubbed the outside down and POR metal prepped the block for engine enamel tomorrow.

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Who makes/sells hi-compression pistons for F? Is this engine open chamber head with dome pistons?
Hi Jim, thanks for checking in on my thread. I have followed your posts and comments for years!

The heads, to my knowledge, are stock 1974 F heads with mild porting. I had Active Engines in Toronto work on the heads and block, as well as source the pistons and rings, deck the block, rebuild the valves, replace springs, install cam bearings, balance and match the pins/rods/pistons. I didnt check the brand on the pistons, I can look Thursday. I have worked Active on high-end Porsche motors for years and didnt scrutinize Mike's build sheet. I am doing the assembly though and can share pics and markings as I do. Right now I am fixated on getting my autocross car on point.
 
Hi Jim and all,
I forgot to ask the machinist for the specs, I will have to look and see if the invoice has the details. In the meantime here are some pics o the pistons...

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Lots of progress on the roof. It was in good shape, but I wanted to make it perfect. I also wanted to reinforce it, partly due to age but also for strength. I will have a hefty roof rack and tent up there. I will be welding in reinforcing for the roof rails and body where the roof rests on it.

I laid 3 layers of glass cloth all around the perimeter to build up the flange. Then I laid 1 layer of heavy glass mat then 2 layers of medium-weight glass cloth. Then I ground down the rivet-head spots and reinforced them on both sides with class cloth and glass fiber polyester putty. Lined up all the original rivet holes and trimmed back resin imperfections until the metal visor aligned with the original rivet holes. Tonight I POR'd the visor, tomorrow I will lay down a bead of body sealer and rivet the visor to the top. Once the body sealer is cures I will apply one more layer of glass cloth along the visor-roof seam.

When the Aqualu tub arrives next week I will temporarily install the roof body panels in place and trim the roof to fit the new CCOT roof frame.

Enjoy! Suggestions welcome!

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Hi Jim and all,
I forgot to ask the machinist for the specs, I will have to look and see if the invoice has the details. In the meantime here are some pics o the pistons...

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Those are stock replacement pistons, which are also hard to find nowadays. The overbore will increase displacement & CR slightly. Mill the head & install flat-face valves to get to 8.5, which is about the max for backcountry gas & the tight stock cam timing.
 
Thanks for clearing that up Jim. I have a new DC "RV" cam going in, and the same shop did a complete valve job. I forget if the faces are flat, I can check later.
 

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