thebigredrocker
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Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JohnJL
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Rotate the assembly until the flat spot on the passenger side “driver” is visible.
Move the driver away from the coupler towards the center. Reach into the gap and slide the end cap towards the center as well. Then the c clip and the groove for it are accessible for install or disassembly.
No one here remembers the prototype for the first locker was designed and installed in my shop in 1991.
Move the driver away from the coupler towards the center. Reach into the gap and slide the end cap towards the center as well. Then the c clip and the groove for it are accessible for install or disassembly.
No one here remembers the prototype for the first locker was designed and installed in my shop in 1991.
- Thread starter
- #104
Thats the link I published before, I wasnt able to get it to work in reverse...
- Thread starter
- #106
Wow, thanks, I ill try that as soon as I can sneak out to the garage again.
- Thread starter
- #107
One coat of the Epifanes polyurethane. I mixed it 3 parts Arctic White, 3 parts Light Oyste, 1 part thinner and rolled it on. It came out really well, cured hard and covered evenly. I then laid in 3M self levelling sealer. That was also a really good product it seems but I needed 2x and have to place an order for another tube.
I dont have a 3M 2-tube dispenser so I rigged up a regular caulk gun. That worked really well with the mixing tip that came with the sealer. I couldnt imagine having to mix the stuff in a bol and pouring it in, the stuff cures super fast!
The Epifanes came out a little whiter than I want to than I would like to the final 2 coats will be 3 parts Light Oyster, 2 parts Arctic White.
I dont have a 3M 2-tube dispenser so I rigged up a regular caulk gun. That worked really well with the mixing tip that came with the sealer. I couldnt imagine having to mix the stuff in a bol and pouring it in, the stuff cures super fast!
The Epifanes came out a little whiter than I want to than I would like to the final 2 coats will be 3 parts Light Oyster, 2 parts Arctic White.
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- Thread starter
- #109
I am on a few sites and dont notice that used so much...I hadnt used it myself just because I hadnt noticed others doing so, now I will!That’s what the like button is for.
- Thread starter
- #110
So I am a moron, but I am a persistent moron. I am still stuck. Here is a pic of the differential with the parts labelled. When you refer to coupler and and cap, I am not clear which parts you are referring to. The exlocker instructions (FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction) have a different model to mine and use different terms for those components. The letters are the components and the numbers are the gaps.
Would you indulge me and help specify;
Which axle needs to come out first?
Does the axle I am removing need to be pushed inboard or pulled outboard? Does it matter how the other side is positioned?
Between which components does the c-clip come out? I cant seem to locate a c-clip between any parts but the axle will not come out. I have labelled the gaps below.
Also my locker has only 1 screw pin, but 7 (I think I am missing 1?) small springs and 2 doubled springs as in the second pic.
Thanks so much!
Bonus pics of the frame back from the blaster coming later tonight. Not a stitch of rust beyond a couple spots of surface pitting. Everything gets the wire wheel and POR Chassis Coat tomorrow...
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FIRST OF ALL, put the caps back on your carrier bearings, NOW! You will be very unhappy if the carrier falls out. Very unhappy.
Second, rotate B by rotating the axleshaft until the teeth are meshed with C. This will give you more wiggle room.
There should be an end cap inside C. With the center pin removed, you should be able to slide the end cap across the middle and part way into D.
Then you just slide the axleshaft in and out until the c-clip lines up with the slot in C you have marked with a 2 and rotate the slot down so that when you rotate the axleshaft, the c clip will want to fall out through the slot.
Second, rotate B by rotating the axleshaft until the teeth are meshed with C. This will give you more wiggle room.
There should be an end cap inside C. With the center pin removed, you should be able to slide the end cap across the middle and part way into D.
Then you just slide the axleshaft in and out until the c-clip lines up with the slot in C you have marked with a 2 and rotate the slot down so that when you rotate the axleshaft, the c clip will want to fall out through the slot.
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No news is good news?
- Thread starter
- #114
Unfortunately no. 3 cords of firewood is quite a lot and took me a weekend....
- Thread starter
- #115
Thanks for the tip on the carrier bearing bolts. Back on now.
I did this:
"rotate B by rotating the axleshaft until the teeth are meshed with C. This will give you more wiggle room."
But I cant see or feel any "end cap" :
"There should be an end cap inside C. With the center pin removed, you should be able to slide the end cap across the middle and part way into D."
I did this:
"slide the axleshaft in and out until the c-clip lines up with the slot in C you have marked with a 2 and rotate the slot down so that when you rotate the axleshaft, the c clip will want to fall out through the slot"
Except my clip will not fall out. I have the axle on a hoist and straps so I can rotate it easily and smoothly. Tried lining up the C window to the c-clip with the c-clip gap rotated on the opposite "up" side.
Then I went creative and pulled out a supermagnet and stuffed it down the "C" window until it touches the c-clip at the middle of its throat, and grab th magnet with some forceps/hummingbirdnose pliers. That c-clip will NOT come out. It slides smoothly around the shaft but will NOT come out through that C window. Am I missing something? Whats that end cap reference? Do I need to shift another component?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #116
So I got the rear axle apart, thanks to Pin Head and everyone who helped on that thread branch.
I am working on the finishing touches on the roof, the frame, the underside of the body, and the axles. I like having a variety of bits to work on simultaneously, it allows me to switch when stuck, or order parts and move over to something else.
Here is a video tour of the body, roof, frame, axles and bits. Thanks again for all your help!
I am working on the finishing touches on the roof, the frame, the underside of the body, and the axles. I like having a variety of bits to work on simultaneously, it allows me to switch when stuck, or order parts and move over to something else.
Here is a video tour of the body, roof, frame, axles and bits. Thanks again for all your help!
- Thread starter
- #118
So I got a lot done this weekend so far...
Headliner is in. I took a series of pics to capture my method for putting these in. Ive done a few other cars and always on a rotisserie but never an FJ.
I roll on the contact cement on the roof and the headliner backside, and let it dry. Then lay down wax paper across the surface of the top. Then slowly and carefully push down and massage the headliner onto the roof while pulling back the wax paper. It allows you to focus on getting the leading edge right and prevents it from folding over on itself.
Headliner is in. I took a series of pics to capture my method for putting these in. Ive done a few other cars and always on a rotisserie but never an FJ.
I roll on the contact cement on the roof and the headliner backside, and let it dry. Then lay down wax paper across the surface of the top. Then slowly and carefully push down and massage the headliner onto the roof while pulling back the wax paper. It allows you to focus on getting the leading edge right and prevents it from folding over on itself.
- Thread starter
- #119
The headliner went in well, I am happy with it. A couple wrinkles up in the corner but it was the best I could do. I am happy with it and will try with a heat gun to gently remove the wrinkles. My headliner was from CCOT and it DID NOT have any pleats in the corner. It has the 1 pleat near the middle across the roof but otherwise it is completely flat, which isnt ideal for a deeply curved roof...
I also got the axles out and bearing replacement parts from SOR. I found something interesting. When researching the forum, then referencing the Haynes manual and then the big ole Toyota service manual I see inconsistent information...
Here is a post where a 1971 rear axle bearing race is giving a member grief...1971 FJ40 Rear outer wheel bearing race removal
But myy rear axle bearing in my 1974 doesnt appear to have a race that presses on the axle. The axle slid out of the housing with the roller bearings running diretly on the axle. The new bearing from SOR appears to fit the same, running the roller bearings on the polished shaft of the axle.
The Haynes and Toyota manuals show races on the axles....
Now if I just ignore posts and manuals I would simply go ahead and press the new bearing into the axle housing, insert the axle and be on my way. Is that right? Is the 1974 just different to earlier and later models? The SOR parts do appear correct.
I also got the axles out and bearing replacement parts from SOR. I found something interesting. When researching the forum, then referencing the Haynes manual and then the big ole Toyota service manual I see inconsistent information...
Here is a post where a 1971 rear axle bearing race is giving a member grief...1971 FJ40 Rear outer wheel bearing race removal
But myy rear axle bearing in my 1974 doesnt appear to have a race that presses on the axle. The axle slid out of the housing with the roller bearings running diretly on the axle. The new bearing from SOR appears to fit the same, running the roller bearings on the polished shaft of the axle.
The Haynes and Toyota manuals show races on the axles....
Now if I just ignore posts and manuals I would simply go ahead and press the new bearing into the axle housing, insert the axle and be on my way. Is that right? Is the 1974 just different to earlier and later models? The SOR parts do appear correct.
