Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread (2 Viewers)

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Here is the carb all done.

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Driveshaft question- My stock driveshafts are pretty beat up, including some dents. I am installing 2.25" higher leaf springs and longer shakles for a total ~3.75" lift. Remaining spring-under-axle. While I am having new driveshafts made should I have them made longer? If so how to measure exactly?

Thanks!
 
Great work.

Are you using a CW plating kit? I’d love to be able to do it at home.

Hi, thanks. Its a caswell "copy cad" kit with a bit of experimentation with some brightener. Its fun, but I find it takes ~2 hours or so to get a decent "run" going, where the rhythm of juggling degreasing, blasting, cleaning, plating and dryng/finishing are in sync.
 
Hi, thanks. Its a caswell "copy cad" kit with a bit of experimentation with some brightener. Its fun, but I find it takes ~2 hours or so to get a decent "run" going, where the rhythm of juggling degreasing, blasting, cleaning, plating and dryng/finishing are in sync.
Thanks. I’ve read good things about the kits before; I’ve contemplated getting one. The results look really nice.
 
Driveshaft question- My stock driveshafts are pretty beat up, including some dents. I am installing 2.25" higher leaf springs and longer shakles for a total ~3.75" lift. Remaining spring-under-axle. While I am having new driveshafts made should I have them made longer? If so how to measure exactly?

Thanks!

The shackles are providing 1.5”if lift? Or are they 1.5” longer then stock shackles?

1.5” longer will be 1/2 that in lift aka 3/4” lift

To get 1.5” lift the shackles would need to be 3” longer than stock
 
The shackles are providing 1.5”if lift? Or are they 1.5” longer then stock shackles?

1.5” longer will be 1/2 that in lift aka 3/4” lift

To get 1.5” lift the shackles would need to be 3” longer than stock

The springs are 2.25" more arched and longer, the shackles are just under 2" longer than stock.

Is there a need to lengthen the driveshafts?
 
Nice work; looks like someone got an "A" in autoshop:)
 
It depends. Some leaf springs really move the axles toward the t-case, making it difficult to squeeze the stock shafts in there (i'm lookin' at you, OME). Most springs keep the axle at the same arc distance from the t-case, so no need for changing d-shaft lengths.
 
Some work on the fan...

OEM 4-blade fan color 1974 US FJ40?



A restoration always has choices along the way, I've found keeping in mind a final goal is important as choices are made along t he way. This one is going back to stock, as it rolled off the factory line with only the most minor of alterations: a better cam, a touch higher with bigger tires, and an electronic ignition. Fox shocks and lockers. Everything else down to the muffler is OEM.

Also finished most of the media basting on the body, top and panels. Phosphate coated them for now while I decide how to deal with the tub and tiny bits of rust on the fenders and 1 rear door...

Pic posting not working...will try in the morning...
 
It depends. Some leaf springs really move the axles toward the t-case, making it difficult to squeeze the stock shafts in there (i'm lookin' at you, OME). Most springs keep the axle at the same arc distance from the t-case, so no need for changing d-shaft lengths.

Does this why some lifted 40s look like the rear wheels are so close to the front of the rear well? Optically that just looks off.
 
The best way to determine DS length is to install your lift, then do flex and compression test using jacks and a full load to determine how much the distance between the yokes changes. Your stock length may be fine, and then again your lift may will settle and soften a little after driving and having the truck loaded. So if your stock DS will work, run them a while and then decide if you need to modify. My $.002 worth.
Frank
 
Does this why some lifted 40s look like the rear wheels are so close to the front of the rear well? Optically that just looks off.
Yes, exactly.
 
Yes, exactly.

Do you happen to know or have any idea how to fix this? I have an OME kit ready for install, but unless I can fix this, I lean towards selling the kit and going with another that doesn't have this issue.
 
Drill a new hole in the spring pad for the leaf spring center pin. Best to mostly install the springs, then set truck down for a few days for an initial settle. Look at where the tire ends up in the wheel well and decide how far to relocate centering hole.
 
I am leaning toward replacing the body rearwards of the cowl and dash. There are 7 ugly patches and stitches in it, coated with rhinoliner that wouldnt blast off, and large sections would need new panels. I see the Aqualu tubs which seem interesting except that the transmission tunnel doesnt look stock. My transmission tunnel is blasted and in perfect shame, maybe I would try and reuse that on an aqualu tub? I really want it to appear as stock as possible. Are there other sources for tubs, perferably fresh galvanized or primered steel tubs?
 
Also, what is the proper product/color code for the off-white roof? I have the metal frame separated from the fiberglass roof and am performing some minor repairs to the fiberglass.

Thanks!
 

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