Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JohnJL
- Start date
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Nice work on the top. It’s amazing How many of us cruiser heads also have Porschesz keep up the great work.
- Thread starter
- #63
Tub off the crate and onto a dolly. Tonight I hope to mount the sides and windshield temporarily. THen I can lay the metal roof rails all bolted to the body in the correct places, weld the roof metal pieces into one unit, lay the roof on top and trim to fit!
- Thread starter
- #64
I prepped and fitted up the cowl and placed the cage in its final spot.
So is it OK to POR15 the steel sections where they overlap the aluminum tub? Sika adhesive is what Aqualu sent wth the tub, but checking if sika and POR15 are compatible?
So is it OK to POR15 the steel sections where they overlap the aluminum tub? Sika adhesive is what Aqualu sent wth the tub, but checking if sika and POR15 are compatible?
I was looking at the pics of your roll cage, before you asked about bracing, and wondering the same thing. I have an Aqualu tub as well. You’re cage foot pic had me wondering about this bracing.
Before I put the replacement tub and roll cage install, my windshield would shake at highway speeds. It was really annoying. After the install, I only get a vibration at the rear view mirror. I’m pretty sure part of the issue in the past was due to bad tires- second hand rollers. I’m running 35” muds now, so that should also cause some vibration.
All this is to say, I don’t think you need to add the bracing. On the other hand, if you’re gonna do a lot of rough driving, it wouldn’t hurt.
Before I put the replacement tub and roll cage install, my windshield would shake at highway speeds. It was really annoying. After the install, I only get a vibration at the rear view mirror. I’m pretty sure part of the issue in the past was due to bad tires- second hand rollers. I’m running 35” muds now, so that should also cause some vibration.
All this is to say, I don’t think you need to add the bracing. On the other hand, if you’re gonna do a lot of rough driving, it wouldn’t hurt.
@White Stripe built a bracket from his tub to the cage. He might have some input.
I braced my cowl to the cage. I also used the stock tunnel. Make sure you get the front hard door gaps right before you mount/drill holes in cowl to bolt the tub on. Your cage runs pretty close to the door opening make sure hard doors will work with your cage in case you have to modify the front legs. I doubt POR15 will have trouble with silka flex. Look at my build thread below, I was fairly detailed on my aqualu install on my 40. On yours I would also make a second rocker to cowl mounting hole on the bottom of the rocker in addition to the one on the top of the rocker. The side steps have a bolt on factory brace that bolts to the frame. Maybe someone removed yours in the past. It runs out to the bottom of the steps. You may consider running rock rails instead.
- Thread starter
- #72
Posting Bear's roof color formula for my own use soon...
Color Formula for Shell Ivory
Trekker: The formula used by Toyota USA for your color is listed in the Toyota Refinishing Guide used by the dealers in the Seventies. Toyota USA used Rinshed-Mason Products as their OEM colorists. R-M was owned at the time by the Inmont Corporation, later acquired by the huge conglomerate BASF, but it still exists as a paint-line today.The Guide only lists their acrylic paint formula(Alpha-Cryl), not one for their enamel. It states:Shell Ivory (Roof Color -- Land Cruiser) A-TO195.A competent paint shop should be able to mix this for you using the following base//setting formula
NT-90 (their color thinner) = 100; AT-190 = 700; AT-174 = 848; AT-141 = 896; AT-179 = 900; AT-100 = 1000.Please be advised that this is a historical OEM formula from the Seventies.Hope this helps you and any others searching for the authentic OEM color........Bear.......
Color Formula for Shell Ivory
Trekker: The formula used by Toyota USA for your color is listed in the Toyota Refinishing Guide used by the dealers in the Seventies. Toyota USA used Rinshed-Mason Products as their OEM colorists. R-M was owned at the time by the Inmont Corporation, later acquired by the huge conglomerate BASF, but it still exists as a paint-line today.The Guide only lists their acrylic paint formula(Alpha-Cryl), not one for their enamel. It states:Shell Ivory (Roof Color -- Land Cruiser) A-TO195.A competent paint shop should be able to mix this for you using the following base//setting formula
NT-90 (their color thinner) = 100; AT-190 = 700; AT-174 = 848; AT-141 = 896; AT-179 = 900; AT-100 = 1000.Please be advised that this is a historical OEM formula from the Seventies.Hope this helps you and any others searching for the authentic OEM color........Bear.......- Thread starter
- #73
Thanks, and the pics and descriptions you posted are very helpful!
My step braces are still intact, they I may beef them up to support a broader area of the step as well as act like subtle rock rails. I dont want that visible to the casual observer though.
Thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #74
Hard top quick-change!
I have found myself over the last 20 years basically leaving the top off (suspended on a pulley system from the high roof) because its such a pain to do, especially alone. I am thinking to do some planning now to make that operation easier later.
The lift system is a separate topic, but I have some enhancements to that I will do too (ATV winch for one.) I want to cut out the 2 hours it has taken me in the past to get to all the bolts needed to separate the top from the body, and came across these...
QL-25 Series Mini Quik-Latches
This one is all stainless, .875 inch diameter so should fit on top of the flange with the pins facing upward mounted on the flange of the tub.
I dont know how I found these, maybe others used them. I need to ask the maker if, when pressed, the latch stays "open" and allows for release of the pin, or if you have to hold the button in while removing the pin. If its the latter these wont work, I can have my finger on 10 of these while simultaneously raising the roof!
I have found myself over the last 20 years basically leaving the top off (suspended on a pulley system from the high roof) because its such a pain to do, especially alone. I am thinking to do some planning now to make that operation easier later.
The lift system is a separate topic, but I have some enhancements to that I will do too (ATV winch for one.) I want to cut out the 2 hours it has taken me in the past to get to all the bolts needed to separate the top from the body, and came across these...
QL-25 Series Mini Quik-Latches
This one is all stainless, .875 inch diameter so should fit on top of the flange with the pins facing upward mounted on the flange of the tub.
I dont know how I found these, maybe others used them. I need to ask the maker if, when pressed, the latch stays "open" and allows for release of the pin, or if you have to hold the button in while removing the pin. If its the latter these wont work, I can have my finger on 10 of these while simultaneously raising the roof!
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
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Interested to see how it works for you. I just bought a few cans for a fiberglass non-Cruiser project. Westmarine had it on sale last month. If it comes out good, I may roll & tip the next trail cruiser with it.
- Thread starter
- #77
So I made a ton of progress on the roof. In short, I...
- reinforced the roof across the entire span
- Additional material added along the flange, spines and visor
- reinforced the visor mounting strip and replaced the rivets
- all metal is new, with a new frame from CCOT and reinforced in several places, especially 4 mounting points
- at 4 mounting points for roof platform, 3mm angle and steel plate backs the roof frame
- 3 layers of POR 15...to be later POR Tie-coated then finished in Epifranes polyurethane
More notes to come...
- reinforced the roof across the entire span
- Additional material added along the flange, spines and visor
- reinforced the visor mounting strip and replaced the rivets
- all metal is new, with a new frame from CCOT and reinforced in several places, especially 4 mounting points
- at 4 mounting points for roof platform, 3mm angle and steel plate backs the roof frame
- 3 layers of POR 15...to be later POR Tie-coated then finished in Epifranes polyurethane
More notes to come...
- Thread starter
- #79
More roof progress. I modified an air hammer chisel and drilled a concave surface. I installed an air valve to turn the hammer way down and used just a normal hand dolly on the bottom flt side. Ie never done this before, I think it worked great.
