Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

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Perfect Matt! You went over and above the call of duty to answer that question. Thanks again for being so thourough with your descriptions! I wil post pictures of the beast on my link when I learn to weld and slap it together!
 
6/16/2005

Had a free hour or so this evening so I figured I better apply it to the LV. I also have to work this weekend so not much, if anything, is going to happen this weekend.

Basiclly got the other wheel well out. It is in a little worse shape than the other one. Also, more rust holes in the body sheet metal itself, so more work to do there.

On a better note, my body man buddy called me a couple days ago. He's thinking towards the end of next week he could fit me in and we both can hammer out the ass end of the vehicle. So, the LV body might be making a road trip next week.

I think I will be doing as much work on the this wheel well as possible, but I'm not going to put it back in yet. We are going to be removing that side entire quarter panel. The panel has been replaced with a factory panel at one time, must have been a LONG time ago. None of the factory spot welds are in there anymore and the inner panel is all bent to hell. It will be a lot easier to fix that inner pannel when the rear quarter is off and the wheel well.

Matt
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Matt,

I have been following this thread since the get-go and It has sent me back in time to 1986 when I started the restoration of my 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T S/E. You are doing one helluva job and doing it top notch. My hat's off to you sir.........

D-
 
I agree with those guys, prolly one the most indepth threads into restoration at the highest level.

Most would cut corners, you have not cut one corner in this restoration.

Keep the photos and step by step coming, really enjoying the build, plus learniing a whole buncth.

If we did not get granite countertops a couple years ago I would attempt the concrete.......


Rob
 
Thanks for all the words of encouragement from all you guys!! :beer: Doesn't hurt to get a pat on the back once and a while also. I sure do appreciate it and it is needed.

As the project has rolled into the summer months now I find myself wanting to do other things, which isn't all bad I guess. I just want to keep the momentum going so I don't stop. This body work is just such a labor intensive portion of the project, the biggest by far. I just find myself getting burnt out on it :frown:

I'm hoping the end of next week the body will be at my buddy's shop who is the body man. He's fun to work with and things happen pretty fast when your working with him. It would be nice to get the back end of the lv wrapped in a week and get it back on the chassis. I imagine there will be some work in the back end similiar to what Chef did on his thread in the rear quarters.

Thanks again, Matt
 
Radd Cruisers said:
Most would cut corners, you have not cut one corner in this restoration.


Oh, but he has cut corners, rotten ones to be precise, and then made new ones and put them back in........... :D
 
6/19/05

Had to work all weekend, didn't get anything done Saturday night. I got home tonight about 7 after work and figured I better do something.

Little more work on the wheel well. More cut, weld, grind and primer.

Hoping to get most of the metal work done on this well tomorrow or Tuesday. Wheel well won't go back in until this rear quarter is done. Hopefully that will happen next week.

Pics to follow.
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buckroseau said:
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you continue to amaze me. Every time I check on this tread I am blown away by what you can accomplish. your body work skills are amazing. Keep up the great work. :cool:
 
Wow!

Wow! Wow! (Did I say Wow!?)I just finished reading this thread from the begining and have got to say; not only are you multi-talented, but you are willing to take the time to share your knowledge. I know it takes a lot of time away from working on the Cruiser to take and post pics and text detailing your work. Your drive to accomplish goals is inspiring to us all. Please continue to share, I have subscribed to this thread so I can keep up with it.

Man I wish I had read this thread before starting my own sheet metal work. I could have saved a lot of time with the tips I have picked up. That tip your neighbor had about using a trailer ball to help form the rounded edge of the molded ribs was just too cool. I don't have a metal brake so I can't easily make the ribbed sections. You should really think about selling those in different lenghts so folks could easily patch floor boards! I do have an air powered version of the shears you use. Got it from Northern Tools for about $68. They will cut 16ga easily and 14 ga if you have just a small cut. Hard to cut curves with them unless they are large curves but so much faster than the jig saw I normally use.

Slightly off-topic
MY wife is now after me to investigate that concrete counter top. She claims that if I put those in her kitchen when we build our log home she will help me with the Cruiser more... Can you share any further construction info on that? Maybe a link with more info? I don't think the guys will mind if you post it here as several have asked about it!

If you ever get to Lexington, KY look me up, the beers are on me!
 
Coolerman said:
Slightly off-topic
MY wife is now after me to investigate that concrete counter top. She claims that if I put those in her kitchen when we build our log home she will help me with the Cruiser more... Can you share any further construction info on that? Maybe a link with more info? I don't think the guys will mind if you post it here as several have asked about it!

Yes, slightly off topic, but I'm the one who started it. :) I guess if it helps you work more on your cruiser and get's your wife involved it's all good and somewhat cruiser related, right? ;)

I thought this link was helpful

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/dcn/conccounter-a.shtm

Not to technical and fancy, more my style I thought. I didn't follow it to the letter, I did what I thought would work, very similiar though.

Bought a 8'1" x 49" x 3/4" sheet of Malomine board. Ripped the base to size first which was 8'1" x 40". Then ripped the remaining piece into 2 1/4" pieces, that way when I screwed them to the side and they were flush with the floor it would be 1 1/2" higher, the thickness I wanted my countertops. So, basicly screwed those pieces to the side of my larger piece approx. every foot on the side. I then ripped 2 - pieces of 2 x 6" boards to 6" triangles and then screwed them in the corner on one side of the form. I wish I would of use the Malomine board because when I pulled the form the concrete was a little flakey where the 2 x 6" pine triangle's where. The Malomine board makes a very nice finish when it release's.

I then cut wire netting 1/2" o.c. square stuff, roughly the size of the inside of the form, approx. 1/2" to an 1" shy from the edge. I also cut 3/8" rebar 39" long and layed them widthwise on top of the netting approx. 6" o.c. the entire length of the countertop. My reason for the rebar was the 15" overhang my wife wanted. I just thought if several people were eating and leaning on it, worried about it breaking if it got a lot of weight.

Used a mixture of 2 - 60lb bags of quickcrete concrete mix / 1 gallon portland cement / 1 - 8oz bottle of quickcrete charcoal tint and water. I don't know the exact mixture of water? I've done lots of concrete work so I just added water until it was the right consistency, kinda like pudding.

I repeated the mixture above 4 x's in a 6 cubic yard wheel barrel. Mix up a batch, pour it into the form, mix up another batch.....you get the idea. I had a little left over when I was done, but not much.

Tamped everything down with the trowel for several minutes to make sure there were no air pockets along the sides of the form. I then had the wife help me with a straight 2 x 4 and we screted the top of it. Basicly all you do is work the 2 x 4 from one end to the other while wiggling it back and forth across the form, moving slowly ahead. Flushes the concrete with the top of the form so there is no excess. After that I used a bull float and floated it a few times to smooth it out. You wouldn't have to float it, but I had one so I did it.

Waited about 6 hours, came back out and troweled it smooth with a 14" trowel. Waited another 2 hours and troweled it again. Pretty much got it as good as I was going to get it? Waited 24 hours and then went over it a few times with a floor sander w/ a 36 grit disc, just to smooth it out even more. I waited about 3 days before I pulled the forms off the side, just to make sure it at cured fully. After I pulled that I used a belt sander with a 36" grit belt and beveled the edges to about a 1/4" 45 degree angle, if you take your time you can actually get that bevel pretty nice.

1 week later, 5 guys hauled a 500 lb countertop into my kitchen. It was pretty leve, but it did need a little shimming on 1 end of about 3/16". I waited about 2 weeks before I sealed it. I use a product that I sell at my store here for coffee tables, tables and other misc. stuff they recomend it for. I figured it would work, but no one told me to do it. I use the gal. kit and that was barely enough, but it made it. Stuff is called Easy Lite, 2 part goo that you mix together an pour on, gets to be about an 1/8" thick and looks like glass when your done.

Before I poured it onto the top, the day before I mixed up a cup full and used a brush and went around the edges first and brushed a coat on first. The reason I did this is, I did a test run on a concrete patio block a few weeks earlier to see how this stuff was goint to work. I poured it on the patio block on the top first and then it ran over the sides randomly. When I went back to brush out the runs where it had first ran down and brush the dry spots, the dry spots didn't look as wet as where it had ran down first. I guess I figured I better brush the sides evenly first before I pour it on the top. It ran down the sides, but it didn't matter because I had already sealed it, just brushed it out then. Have to keep after it for about 3 hours after you pour it, just keep brushing out runs.

My total cost, approx. $150 bucks for the whole works.

I'm no expert, just what I did. All that matters is that the wifes happy and I get more LV time. :D

Hope this helps, Matt
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6/22/05

Ok, enough with the concrete countertops, back to Landcruiser s***.

I have to work late tonight so I spent a couple hours out in the shop this morning. More of the same program, cut, weld, grind, prime.

Started working up a piece for the door sill. Semi complicated, but just takes a little time. I still have to do some tweaking, but I got it massaged in there somewhat with clamps. Little more tweaking, might try to weld it after work tonight at 9? We'll see.

Matt
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