Coolerman said:
Slightly off-topic
MY wife is now after me to investigate that concrete counter top. She claims that if I put those in her kitchen when we build our log home she will help me with the Cruiser more... Can you share any further construction info on that? Maybe a link with more info? I don't think the guys will mind if you post it here as several have asked about it!
Yes, slightly off topic, but I'm the one who started it.

I guess if it helps you work more on your cruiser and get's your wife involved it's all good and somewhat cruiser related, right?
I thought this link was helpful
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/dcn/conccounter-a.shtm
Not to technical and fancy, more my style I thought. I didn't follow it to the letter, I did what I thought would work, very similiar though.
Bought a 8'1" x 49" x 3/4" sheet of Malomine board. Ripped the base to size first which was 8'1" x 40". Then ripped the remaining piece into 2 1/4" pieces, that way when I screwed them to the side and they were flush with the floor it would be 1 1/2" higher, the thickness I wanted my countertops. So, basicly screwed those pieces to the side of my larger piece approx. every foot on the side. I then ripped 2 - pieces of 2 x 6" boards to 6" triangles and then screwed them in the corner on one side of the form. I wish I would of use the Malomine board because when I pulled the form the concrete was a little flakey where the 2 x 6" pine triangle's where. The Malomine board makes a very nice finish when it release's.
I then cut wire netting 1/2" o.c. square stuff, roughly the size of the inside of the form, approx. 1/2" to an 1" shy from the edge. I also cut 3/8" rebar 39" long and layed them widthwise on top of the netting approx. 6" o.c. the entire length of the countertop. My reason for the rebar was the 15" overhang my wife wanted. I just thought if several people were eating and leaning on it, worried about it breaking if it got a lot of weight.
Used a mixture of 2 - 60lb bags of quickcrete concrete mix / 1 gallon portland cement / 1 - 8oz bottle of quickcrete charcoal tint and water. I don't know the exact mixture of water? I've done lots of concrete work so I just added water until it was the right consistency, kinda like pudding.
I repeated the mixture above 4 x's in a 6 cubic yard wheel barrel. Mix up a batch, pour it into the form, mix up another batch.....you get the idea. I had a little left over when I was done, but not much.
Tamped everything down with the trowel for several minutes to make sure there were no air pockets along the sides of the form. I then had the wife help me with a straight 2 x 4 and we screted the top of it. Basicly all you do is work the 2 x 4 from one end to the other while wiggling it back and forth across the form, moving slowly ahead. Flushes the concrete with the top of the form so there is no excess. After that I used a bull float and floated it a few times to smooth it out. You wouldn't have to float it, but I had one so I did it.
Waited about 6 hours, came back out and troweled it smooth with a 14" trowel. Waited another 2 hours and troweled it again. Pretty much got it as good as I was going to get it? Waited 24 hours and then went over it a few times with a floor sander w/ a 36 grit disc, just to smooth it out even more. I waited about 3 days before I pulled the forms off the side, just to make sure it at cured fully. After I pulled that I used a belt sander with a 36" grit belt and beveled the edges to about a 1/4" 45 degree angle, if you take your time you can actually get that bevel pretty nice.
1 week later, 5 guys hauled a 500 lb countertop into my kitchen. It was pretty leve, but it did need a little shimming on 1 end of about 3/16". I waited about 2 weeks before I sealed it. I use a product that I sell at my store here for coffee tables, tables and other misc. stuff they recomend it for. I figured it would work, but no one told me to do it. I use the gal. kit and that was barely enough, but it made it. Stuff is called Easy Lite, 2 part goo that you mix together an pour on, gets to be about an 1/8" thick and looks like glass when your done.
Before I poured it onto the top, the day before I mixed up a cup full and used a brush and went around the edges first and brushed a coat on first. The reason I did this is, I did a test run on a concrete patio block a few weeks earlier to see how this stuff was goint to work. I poured it on the patio block on the top first and then it ran over the sides randomly. When I went back to brush out the runs where it had first ran down and brush the dry spots, the dry spots didn't look as wet as where it had ran down first. I guess I figured I better brush the sides evenly first before I pour it on the top. It ran down the sides, but it didn't matter because I had already sealed it, just brushed it out then. Have to keep after it for about 3 hours after you pour it, just keep brushing out runs.
My total cost, approx. $150 bucks for the whole works.
I'm no expert, just what I did. All that matters is that the wifes happy and I get more LV time.
Hope this helps, Matt