Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (4 Viewers)

[whitey45]

Dry headgasket! Looking good!

 

[locklaw]

Cleaned up and lapped valves back in head with new umbrella seals (Fel-Pro).
View attachment 3134935

Made a head bolt hole thread chaser from a spare HB (from John @pardion ). Been some discussion on criticality of HB length for proper torque prior to bolt bottoming out. The bolt on the left is original to this motor (AFAIK), right one will be the chaser. Note the length difference. Tech message: verify proper HB length with block/gasket height.
View attachment 3134936

Does anyone use a HG sealant such as Permatex Copper or just dry (OEM HG)?

Could you please share the part number of the umbrella seals you used on the valves?

I only use thread sealant where a bolt protrudes into a water jacket. The rest only light oil and then I ease up on the torque (use lower scale). So far, no issues on any of the heads I have had off using OEM gaskets.

 

[middlecalf]

FEL-PRO SS72616 Set

I only use thread sealant where a bolt protrudes into a water jacket.

Which ones go into the water jacket? Didn’t know any did that . I need to take another look with the secret spy camera.

 

[locklaw]

FEL-PRO SS72616 Set


Which ones go into the water jacket? Didn’t know any did that . I need to take another look with the secret spy camera.

Thanks for the part number! I was referring to head bolts in general, don't recall a bolt going into a water jacket on the old 135 but it was over a year ago and I have four J4 builds/revivals going so things get fuzzy.

 

[middlecalf]

Just a comparison of what was in there (bottom, maker ?) and what’s going there, hopefully soon (top, toyota OEM).

 

[middlecalf]

I have the intake manifold collars, but they could be replaced. Anyone know who might have these?:
17183-60010. Collar, intake manifold side (2x)
17184-60010 collar, intake manifold center (1x)

What I don’t know is if my offenhauser dual carb manifold uses the same collars since I don’t have any Toyota OEM collars to compare to. How critical are these, and is a bit rough (corroded) a concern?

on edit: Toyota parts NLA even at the fork truck outlets best I can find. So we’ll see if these Chevy parts fit/work (unless I reuse my crusty ones ): Intake Manifold Alignment Sleeves-Classic Chevy Truck Parts - https://www.classicparts.com/1954-62-Intake-Manifold-Alignment-Sleeves/productinfo/89-306/

 

[middlecalf]

Funny, of all the things I’ve done to this rig, both from experience and a lot from inexperience, this was the most nerving putting the head back on. I guess it’s the finality of it, if something‘s not right inside it won’t show up until the launch button is pushed .

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

You’ve got this. Looking forward to hearing it running!

 

[middlecalf]

Big deal! Oil to rockers, driven by drill.


And for tech, this was the position and status of each cylinder when oil finally started flowing at the top. So Cyl #3 or #5 at TDC? Who really knows as long as it’s flowing!

 

[middlecalf]

Almost all back together. Was hoping to get a first run this weekend, but my plugs were so fouled I decided to get some new ones and where I’m at that means ordering and waiting for shipment (end of next week). Denso W14EX-U plugs btw. Question: on that first run, should I just idle it up to 2k (?) rpm’s for some amount of time after I’ve set the timing on the ball (it’s at TDC right now)? I guess I need to seat the new rings with a cylinder hone? Should I let it get up to temp first (valves adjusted cold) before ramping up rpm’s? I’d drive it if that’s best, but our dirt/washboard roads are so bad it‘d be a rough ride trying to get the engine up to necessary rpm’s. Yes, this is new territory for me.

 

[whitey45]

High rpm break in is primarily for cam break in( assuming you didnt change your valve train. I would fire it up, let it warm up a bit, and really just drive it like you normally would. After a few hundred miles, drive it like you stole it!!!

 

[whitey45]

If you have a bead blaster, you can blast your plugs to look like new!

 

[middlecalf]

I don’t have a bead blaster, but I have one of those plug cleaner things that moves particulate around that’s suppose to clean up plugs. It works so-so on moderately crusted plugs, but these are really bad with a lot of carbon buildup from all the blowby I was getting (operative word hopefully: was!)

 

[middlecalf]

Slo burp. T-minus …

 

[middlecalf]

Been a slow return (hopefully) to service, partly because things don’t break or go bad when not running (oh yea of little faith). But also this new guy is consuming some attention. Oh yeah, and some steelhead chasing . Maybe launch tomorrow (after church and a few prayers ).

 

[middlecalf]

it’s not burping

on edit:
pulled the heater hose from the head’s rear temp sender fitting and it burped - needed somewhere for all the air to get out

 

[middlecalf]

It’s alive (again). No railroad crossings to jump though .

 

[Michael B]

Congratulations Paul! The old 45 sounds great.

 

[middlecalf]

Thanks Michael! And no smoke anymore! I called this Smokey before but now I might call it Elijah, it’s a fighter !

 

[middlecalf]

This is just a vid of how I runtime verify good compression but mostly check for lean carb condition. Descend a steep grade in low gear with no throttle and listen for no tailpipe popping and good engine rpm buildup. When the carb gets dirty (which is common up here in this dusty environment) a very noticeable popping will occur and it’s time to pull, clean and rebuild the carb (often a couple times a year ). You get efficient at doing that after a bit .

Lots of rattles and pinging rock noise on our local roads. Snow day today, so working on my one finger typing skill .