Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

[middlecalf]

Original plug is 90950-01015 “Plug, rubber, floor drain” (thanks Dean @MadMace!).

Was hoping this might point to a superseding part number but nothing comes up in searches that gives me confidence that will fit the 33.5mm hole.

Interesting part description, as this isn’t a drain hole, you really don’t want water draining into this as it fills the cross brace below. (There are three open drain holes at the front of the bed anyhow). So that tells me this plug could be used elsewhere, as a drain plug. All the cab drain holes are smaller, except the one under the gas tank. I guess I could pull the one I have there from @ToyotaMatt and see if it fits.

on edit: I’ll pull the one in my 40, it doesn‘t have a fuel tank so easy out and back in. For those more bored than me cuz you’re following this nonsense I’ll post up fit/unfit results.

on edit 2: nope, too big.

 

[middlecalf]

Mostly in. A few pickups, then it’s going back on frame . Not exactly sure about chain covers. I sprayed the chains with fluid film.

 

[redfj45can]

Would spray the bed in red & for the chains you can use grease too ..(inside the cover)
To explain it a bit more...
Chains:
I would not mount the chains when you don`t use them...the are loud during driving even with the cover.
Would mount them only to transport a long load....mounting & disassembling the chains is not a big job.

 

[middlecalf]

An SWB needs chains, there are no rubber bumpers like LWB’s. Bed liner is not original so black is it, paint would quickly be rubbed/scraped off in my work environment.

 

[middlecalf]

Hey Mark @cppilot finally got your sticker installed!

 

[middlecalf]

Put the cityracer mud flaps on. They are really nice.

But the problem is how to mount non-stock things like this. I looked at tons of pics on mud, but not much shown for these early SWBs. @ClemsonCruiser showed a rig with some brackets that might be LV brackets? Anyhow, I didn’t have room in that location as the exhaust tailpipe is right there. Now that was a bit of guess as well (tailpipe runout), but even so to get the flaps closer to the tires would require a bit more tailpipe rerouting. So I hung them off the rear most bed mount. Given the depredation of this frame I had drilled out one of the mount bolts to install a piece of L channel for load strength. It was just a matter of pulling that bolt, drilling a couple more holes and installing the home built mounts for the flaps. Yeah, I’d like them closer to the wheels but the departure angle is about the same as the bumperettes, so that should keep the taillight covers from getting destroyed by projectile gravel plus reduce the buildup of mud in the rear frame supports. Oh yeah, maybe save one of the yahoo’s windshields from the big city who think it’s fun to terrorize our dirt roads.

Note: not done yet with bed mounts. Soon.

 

[middlecalf]

Spare tire and mount on. Had to switch the taillights from outside the rear frame rail to inside (that’s where they should be anyhow) because the bottom tire mount retaining bolt wouldn’t clear the light . It needed that teeny bit of clearance. I mounted them outside the frame rail originally because the rail was made a smidgeon too narrow and the driver’s side mount didn’t sit flush. But a little coercion and its now good to go. They‘re a bit more tucked in under the body corner too.

I took the PO-added 1” square channels off the mount bracket as they’re barely not needed with these width of tires. I don’t plan on running anything wider. The next owner (if there ever is one) can add them back. That reduces the bending load on the back of the bed by 50-inch lbs or so .

I guess I need to take the Made in USA sticker off the spare STA tire now.

I left those two holes in the center of the tire, didn’t know if they were stock for anything or not . About M6 holes.

 

[middlecalf]

Had a really good day. Decided to try and drive the truck a bit, and I used a little choke this time (finally connected the single choke to one of the carbs), and I have pretty good power throughout with that. So, a temporary hack fix, but it will let me put some time on the motor to see if the rings will seat - if that’s my smoking cause - with some ATF in the oil. But I’ll have to get it licensed, the gravel roads around here are murderous for running with some RPMs.

Cracked me up, I put on the convex outside mirror, didn’t even think about clearance when the bug catcher window is open. And I have bug catchers on my 40 but they never hit the mirror.

 

[middlecalf]

Bed done and fully tied down. Back to seats again.

Right now I have a ‘63-1/2 to ‘64 vintage drivers seat with old but functional heavy vinyl black covers and the stock ‘62-‘63 passenger seat without covers or padding but with a replacement built (by me) solid beaded back to replace the removed (by a PO for some unknown reason) original solid beaded back. Zig zag springs still intact but not much clearance over fuel tank if much flex is needed (kardashian effect). So, what to do?

Thought 1: get the SOR grey FJ25 covers (both drivers and passenger) and some high density foam (2.8 lbs?) and cover the passenger seat with that (25 vs. 40 covers because of the shorter back akin to the 25 seats anyhow). Maybe replace the zig zags with a solid base with beads (like the back) cuz I don’t have the coil box that would have been inside the original‘s seat bottom to keep the kardasians off the fuel tank. Store the drivers cover until I find a 25 drivers seat (yeah right) with the shorter back and height. Or rebuild the seat I have to match the 25 size and cover it. I still have 15-lbs of welding wire .

Thought 2: none so far.

 

[Bear]

"Kardashians"--you said a naughty ! Ah, the rich and famous--never happy enough: just today in Los Angeles, a mother and her puffy-lipped daughter were charged with the killing of an internet wannabe--for injecting the starlet's Kardashian with homemade silicone--death soon followed. Sad.

Yes, by all means, make your fuel tank "Kardashian-proof" !

 

[redfj45can]

Cracked me up, I put on the convex outside mirror, didn’t even think about clearance when the bug catcher window is open. And I have bug catchers on my 40 but they never hit the mirror.

Happened to me also ... one time . Construction fault by Mr.Toyota an his crew.
They never opened the bug catchers before these vehicles left their company.... my crew works better!

 

[middlecalf]

Since this is mostly/sorta/kinda complete and running, I thought I’d start down the path to get it licensed. First strep is to get a salvage title, right now I have a salvage certificate that verifies my ownership. The PO bought this from a salvage auction hence the continuance of the salvage status to my state when I bought it from him. To get the salvage title, I have to describe what was done “to restore the vehicle to the operating condition that existed prior to the event causing vehicle to be salvaged.” Well, I have no idea as to that condition but I’ll just list everything I did, which is close to everything . And, “Under penalty of law“ I have to sign a document that states that this vehicle “is in operating condition and complies with the requirements of Title 49, Chapter 9, Idaho Code.” So, that’s been my light reading for the last couple of days. And, as such, I have a few things to do to meet code:
- need two red rear mounted reflectors 49-907 (so I guess I know where the red ones I’m getting from Chase @red66toy are going )
- need to rebuild wiper motors and mount them with wiper arms and blades 49-943
- get the horn button functional on the steering wheel 49-956

Concerns so to speak:
- with only a drivers side mirror in addition to the in-cab center mirror I can’t tow anything that blocks the center mirror’s view, I’d have to add a passenger side mirror
- braking specs (which are specific as to stopping distance, rate and load) can be inspected and verified or rejected by the DOT director
- rear “bumper” on these old cruisers may not meet code 49-966

 

[Krondor]

One one hand, that makes me feel good that they are only allowing functioning vehicles on the road. On the other hand, that is a heck of a lot more than I needed. Come down to SC where all you have to do to get a titled vehicle from an untitled vehicle is have the local sheriff verify that the frame number is legit and not stolen. Send in a few dollars and some pictures, and a few weeks later, a title arrives in the mail.

 

[Michael B]

I’m Al all you need is a bill of sale and if the vehicle is coming from outside the state, it would have to have the vin number inspected by DMV. Registration would be issued onsite with proof of insurance for said vehicle.

Check to ensure that you are only required to meet codes for the year your vehicle was built. It would be a stretch for them to require more.

 

[middlecalf]

This being in the salvage class puts it in a different world than just buying and titling a rig and then making all sorts of mods (typical Mud build). The designated necessary rebuild to retitle puts the rebuilder in the position of responsibility for meeting the codes, and that would be me. I’d loved to have bought this with just a bill of sale and no title, but it did have an existing Nevada salvage title, and that doesn‘t just go away.

Anyway, I think I’m ok on the rear bumper, or lack of one as it came from the “recognized manufacturer” (Toyota). Bumperettes aren’t bumpers, so the requirement falls on the rear frame height, maximum allowed for a four-wheel drive at 10k lbs. GVWR or less is 31 inches. I’m at 24” (unladen, level surface, tires inflated to MRP). Front bumper is good in all categories.

Both TNK wipers work after cleaning out the ancient asphalted gear lube, they‘ll both be on the rig and functional with non-TNK arms and blades tomorrow. At least the original motors were not pilfered .

Horns will honk too soon.

If anyone’s really bored, here’s the code:

https://legislature.idaho.gov/wp-content/uploads/statutesrules/idstat/Title49/T49CH9.pdf

 

[whitey45]

So weird, I thought california was the worst ever state to regi an old rig? I have registered numerous old 40’s and 45’s, as long as they were not in the system (7 years) it just needs a vin verification, pay some fees, and your good to go. Nothing about bumpers, lights, etc??? ,,,, throw your 40 plate on and enjoy!! As if you live in los angelas!!!

 

[middlecalf]

”…as long as they were not in the system…”

That appears to be the key. This rig was in the system, they (Idaho DOT) found the Nevada salvage title, and the process continues. My ‘65 FJ40 I bought out of Oregon with just a bill of sale, no title or anything showed up so I got a clear Idaho title.

 

[middlecalf]

Finally installed some chrome from John @pardion, mounts matched the existing PO’s holes perfectly. Wasn‘t sure if the rails should slant up or down, chose up for more up and out of the way, still get down coverage for 1/2 the windshield height. Also, wiper motors cleaned, functional and installed with speedway motors-wannabe TNK wiper arms/blades. Park to driver‘s side for now, until I remember how to switch the park direction .

 

[middlecalf]

These are serious, from Chase @red66toy. A bit bigger than expected, probably not enough real estate on the back of the rig for these, although I could mount one in the middle of the spare tire carrier. Or not.

 

[middlecalf]

I’m going to get some of these Amazon product ASIN B004L0AC5I but at the local tractor supply, they’ll just fit here on the rear cross member:

Kind of a hack but I don’t have to drill any holes. And the cool Koito reflectors can go on the side.