Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (11 Viewers)

[redfj45can]

.....

Don’t tell Al Gore about my carbon footprint. (I knew I was burning oil, now I know it was all cylinders )

Buy a horse or two & Al Gore likes you again
.... throw the engine in the ocean.
He´s happy with me since I use a ballon or my horses.
My footprint * is NOW okay.

*It`s so easy, Sir.... if you want !
....forgotten: The Red has no fuel engine under the hood. Long, long gone .... thrown in the ocean.
The fuel canister in some of my pictures is only for show ....looks vintage ...ha ha ha ha.
Has a WIND UP ENGINE under the hood like a mechanical clock the wind up part is mounted under the dash.

 

[middlecalf]

Looks like Cyl #4 and somewhat #5 fell off the truck. They were 145 or so a couple of years ago.

Don‘t know what the gunk is, maybe remnant HG? (Cyl #4 pic taken after comp test #3). I need to put the magnetic head on the probe and see if this is ferrous material.

Also can‘t tell if this is a hole (Cyl #4 pic taken after comp test #4 with MMO).

A video of that cylinder.


Interesting that I don’t see any coolant or remnant of milkshake (in any of the cylinders). That stuff is super sticky so there’d be some residue if it made its way into the cylinders. ???

So the question is is a bad HG causing this low compression since compression was good a while back before coolant showed up in the oil? Or maybe also a valve issue. Hopefully when the head is off some answers will become obvious (like is that a hole in #4 cylinder ).

 

[middlecalf]

I did notice I was getting some pressure in the radiator when doing the compression tests, can’t remember which cylinder(s) though. I’ll be doing some leak down testing next to see if this is mostly upper engine issue or lower engine, or both, before pulling the head (I know I have a HG issue) and losing the leak testing realm.

 

[whitey45]

Pull the head !!!’ It takes 20 minutes!!!! pull the pan, new pistons, rings, quick hone,valve job,and your good!

 

[Unimogguy]

Pull the head !!!’ It takes 20 minutes!!!! pull the pan, new pistons, rings, quick hone,valve job,and your good!

This or send it/take it to someone who can do it for you. You’ve got your ideal truck this far in the process don’t give up hope yet!

Quitters never win and Winners never quit!

 

[middlecalf]

Pull the head !!!’ It takes 20 minutes!!!! pull the pan, new pistons, rings, quick hone,valve job,and your good!

Parts. Who’s selling?

 

[middlecalf]

Prelim leak down. More when manifolds are pulled. 20 min?

 

[whitey45]

I think your oil control rings are clogged with carbon or gone all togethet?Thats a lot of oil in the combustion chamber and piston. Valves seem to be ok!

 

[middlecalf]

I’m thinking (hoping) that exhaust valve leak on #4 is the main contributor to its low compression. Wondering (hoping) the excess oil is coming from the top. Probably no good way to test/check the status of the oil control rings other than presence of oil (= failure)?

 

[middlecalf]

14-1/2 min to go

Those rocker arm nuts (the ones on the four valve cover posts) are tight, anything special about them before I put a long wrench on them?

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Those rocker arm nuts (the ones on the four valve cover posts) are tight, anything special about them before I put a long wrench on them?

I don't think so. I pulled the rocker arm assemblies off a 2F and 1.55F this summer as part of milling the heads and replacing the head gaskets. I just put a wrench on them and loosened them. Mine were really tight too.

 

[MadMace]

Those rocker arm nuts (the ones on the four valve cover posts) are tight, anything special about them before I put a long wrench on them?

X2 on what @Lifelong40Fan said. I had to pull the rocker arms of my '63 45 and they were stuck/frozen. The 4 posts that they were on actually backed out of the head before the nuts broke free. I soaked the posts/nuts in PB Blaster for several days then had to heat the nuts with an oxy-acetylene welding/heating tip to cherry red to get them turn off the posts.

 

[whitey45]

If you have leakage at the (cc) crank case? Then you have leaks past the rings? Assuming cc is crankcase and not combustion chamber? A leakdown past the rings will produce leakage past the dipstick and pcv..

 

[middlecalf]

Yeah cc is crank case.

I have a plan going forward. Just need to figure it out first .

 

[EWheeler]

14-1/2 min to go
View attachment 3089641

Those rocker arm nuts (the ones on the four valve cover posts) are tight, anything special about them before I put a long wrench on them?

Are you happy with that location of your oil filter relocation? I am considering doing similar, but mine needs to be more forward due to header down pipes. Like ALOT more forward, and probably down as well. I always make a mess changing filters, but I am not sure if I'm totally convinced that its worth saving the mess to expose the filter to the 0.0001% chance that the filter could be impacted by something down there.

 

[middlecalf]

@EWheeler yeah the location is good, safe from harm so far. And of course the draining of oil when filter is pulled is nice and clean. I don’t have mud guards on either side of motor, just the one under the radiator shroud so that might complicate things with that location. It‘s a wee bit tight getting a filter wrench on the filter and turning. I should get one of those filter wrench’s that fits on the end of a socket extension like this Amazon product ASIN B07JG83SQR

 

[middlecalf]

Rockers, push rods, lifters out. 8 min left . I’m such a tease.

#8 (Cyl #4 exhaust valve) push rod has a little wobble near the top. Replace? And from where? (These are the ~11-3/8” rods)

Wearing the work.

 

[middlecalf]

Ding. Times up. Head off.

No major obvious failure points. Lots of oil everywhere. Gasket is nearly completely intact, one small bad area where the oil pipe comes up through head.

Head has oil and gunk around all sets of valves (typical shown), mostly gunked up around intake valves. Coolant passages at head interface where full of moist gunk.

Looks like cylinders are standard(?), only cylinder # (1) and a “T” (top?) in first pic, second pic shows “6” out at edge.

Not sure what/how to interpret what’s shown here with problems experienced. Maybe it was inadequate torque? I put 95 ft-lbs in order on each bolt, I think only one turned a smidgeon (#13 iirc probably because of air filter bracket removal).

 

[middlecalf]

Damage at oil pipe passage

 

[cruiserdan]

The piston tops are sure beat-up.