1963 FJ45L FOUND! Restoration and Info Thread

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That Toyota logo is OEM. maybe you can trace it out and give it to shane so he can reproduce them.


Well it's not in too good of shape (obviously) but I'm more than happy to trace it for Shane if he's willing to take on the project.


Been wondering if it was a sticker, or if it had raised letters more like an emblem. I was just talking with someone local to see if I can get one or two made here...would be great if Shane made them.

Where they white on black, or chrome??? Hard to tell as I've never held one. I was going with white on black.

Wes I'll post up here, or I'll PM you as soon as I have it!

It's definitely a sticker. Just white letters on black background and not much substance to it. No raised letters or fancy stuff.
 
Well if were piping up for stickers I'd buy a couple.......post up if someone makes them. :)
 
Dallas, any progress on the 45?
 
yeah, we need another fj to drool over...
 
Yes, I am working on the 45, I have just hit a stumbling block here. Maybe you guys can help.

1. Brakes were ok until the master went out (the original one).
2. I took out the master and replaced it with a power setup from a 97 Geo Metro.
3. I adapted it to make sure the entire throw was there, set it, adjust it more, and installed it.
4. I ran lines EXACTLY as it were in the 97 Metro.
5. When I went to bleed it - the brake fluid drizzled out - there was hardly any pressure.
6. So.....I installed the proportioning valve that came with the Geo, thinking that was the problem.
7. It was not the problem, still hardly any pressure.
8. There is pressure if you pound the hell out of the pedal - in about 15 seconds it will build up pressure, but 5 seconds later, the pedal is back on the floor.

There are no leaks anywhere. I got the entire brake setup from the salvage yard, bad master??

Thanks - Dallas
 
Possible internal cup failure resulting in a loss of pedal but no external leakage. I have seen this before in the 80 Series master cylinder. Fluid is by-passing internally due to a cup failure or a cylinder bore issue.
 
....
2. I took out the master and replaced it with a power setup from a 97 Geo Metro.....

:rolleyes:

What happened to trying to keep this somewhat stock?? There are Toyota parts out there that would work for this worthy rig.
 
97 Geo Metro uses a japan Aisin booster and master. It is smaller and more nimble to work with than the mini-truck or GM conversions others are doing.

Plus, since it is smaller - I don't have to CUT anything on my rig, as others are doing.

So see, its Aisin.....its Japanese.....and no cutting or drilling required.

So what about that isn't worthy?

:-) Pictures soon!

dallas
 
Can't wait to see the progress pictures.
 
97 Geo Metro uses a japan Aisin booster and master. It is smaller and more nimble to work with than the mini-truck or GM conversions others are doing.

Plus, since it is smaller - I don't have to CUT anything on my rig, as others are doing.

So see, its Aisin.....its Japanese.....and no cutting or drilling required.

So what about that isn't worthy?

:-) Pictures soon!

dallas


My bad! I didn't know Geo's used Aisin parts. Learn something new everyday. ;)
 
Yes, it came out very nice. I had to include the proportioning valve, and it tucked in quite nice. I will say - power brakes are awesome.

I had to go through every cylinder to bleed/adjust. But now my DRUM BRAKES stop the cruiser just as well as DISKS on any other cruiser I've had.

Also, I went through the electrical system. I now have all lights, turn signals, and everything working as it should. Something to note::

While I was trying to track down why my driver side (left) turn signals would not blink. I found that after tracing the power into the turn signal harness itself, but not out that Toyota uses a grease that in my case gunked up the contact.

I cleaned it and hit it with some lithium grease, which allowed the contact and turn signals to blink!

Happy Holidays,

Dallas
 
97 Geo Metro uses a japan Aisin booster and master. It is smaller and more nimble to work with than the mini-truck or GM conversions others are doing.

Plus, since it is smaller - I don't have to CUT anything on my rig, as others are doing.

So see, its Aisin.....its Japanese.....and no cutting or drilling required.

Pics please... :grinpimp:
 
Hello and good morning crew. I wanted to update you guys on the latest and supply you all with some promised pictures.

First off, I am about 90% done with electrical issues as I traced my fuel gauge issue last night and need a new fuel sending unit.

Something I'd like to share. My buddy Rob Grimes gave me a copy of my wiring diagram. From that I made another copy I keep in the glove box.

Why? In doing repairs, I want to know what colors TOYOTA used (not autozone/checker/etc..) and replace/repair the wire with the correct color code.

Also, in updating the cruiser to an alternator, I made notes to the wiring diagram so that I will always know what I did, how I did it, and how it ties into the FJ45.

A shot of the wiring diagram I am talking about:

IMG_6631.jpg


Now, a while ago, Dom asked me to take a shot of the headliner, and how it ties into the weatherstripping/top. Dom, keep in mind my cruiser is a fixed top so there are obvious discrepancies between ours. Also, this (believe it or not) is the OEM/original headliner:

IMG_6622.jpg


Next, is the braking system. I have all the bugs worked out of the system, and the final issue I had was pedal height. I had to bend (about 1cm) the brake light switch holding bracket back (towards my leg) for complete action of the master cylinder, but the brakes....yes I can lock up all 4 on pavement, a test I just had to do for safety's sake.

Drivers side:

IMG_6627.jpg


Closer up:

IMG_6628.jpg


Again, 1997 Geo Metro (1996-2002 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift use this same setup).

Now, this may seem crazy but you need to use the proportioning valve. Otherwise incorrect pressure will be applied to the rear (you'll be dragging your heiny every time you try and stop).

IMG_6624.jpg


Now, to tie this into the old system. You'll need another "Brake-way" a two way will work fine, or a blocked off 3 way. At Toyota, they are actually called Brake-ways.

BEFORE MOD:
M/C to driver side way - which was a 3 way. (1. from master, 2. to driver front wheel, 3. to passenger three way).
At the passenger 3 way: (1. from driver three way, 2. to passenger front wheel, 3. to rear two way)

At rear two way (1. to the rear 2. from the front three way).

AFTER MOD:
There are 3 exits out of the M/C.
Frontmost goes down to the driver 3 way:

IMG_6629.jpg


The other two are for the Rear Feed and Front passenger 3 way. This is the tricky part.

First, coming from the proportioning valve, the rear goes down to the old rear two way:
(1. coming from the proportioning valve marked "R", 2. going back to the rear brakes)

Second is the feed to the front passenger 3-way, but you need to install a new T and put a two-way "way" next to the rear so that the old feed from the front passenger can feed it. (clear as mud?)

Front 3 way then comes back and instead of plugging into the old rear two way, now plugs into a two way that comes from the prop valve.

Pictures:

IMG_6625.jpg


that shows the lines I bent coming down to the ways.

Here are the two "ways". Clean one is front, older one feeds the rear.

IMG_6626.jpg


Over all is nice and tidy and not in the way of anything.

IMG_6623.jpg


Cheers!

IMG_6630.jpg


Take care - Dallas
 
The cold weather have everyone tucked inside and off the forums lately? I am going to be start making the ride a bit more comfortable. I am going to be re-foaming the driver seat with some lumbar support, I am putting some sound deadening and a mat down on the floor and I am going to start working on plugging all the firewall holes.

We'll see how that goes. It just sounds like a WW2 battle tank in there when shoving off in 1st gear.

later - dallas
 
The cold weather have everyone tucked inside and off the forums lately?

:confused:

Been 75 here in San Diego for 2 weeks...

:grinpimp:

Let me know what you sort out on the firewall grommets. I need to do the same. I'm going to have my seats redone this next week with new foam/spring rebuild, etc. and am hoping it will make a big difference. As for the lumbar I'm considering grabbing a small round pillow for the long hauls (just did 750+ round trip :)) but around town it seems OK without.

More pics!!!
 
AXLE Upgrade

Found an affordable set of axles. Loaded them home in the 45.

Yes.....I am upgrading to late model FJ40 axles. No, I am not throwing out the old ones. They will be shelved in the garage.

I wish I could afford to do an OME lift like Dom's but an extra 2 grand isn't in the budget right now.

Here are some more pictures to keep the thread alive.

IMG_6836.jpg


IMG_6834.jpg


IMG_6837.jpg


IMG_6833.jpg


My Jetta says hello! 310hp, 289ft/lb's out of 1.8 liters, consistently and dependably.
 
Oh, and if you are bored, and wondering about the Jetta.

GT28RS Turbo
Genesis injectors
Revo BT software
Wal-bro in-line
Peliquin LSD
3" exhaust
ATP stage 3 header
Custom race head
30 pounds of boost

This is my daily driver. Many people don't think I run 30psi. But I do. Yes, I have blown things but......I figured out where the weak spots were and fixed them.

Here is proof. A typical 30 pounds of daily driving, if I get on it too hard, wheels just spin.



I know it's off topic, but I am bored too.

-d
 

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