13BT into a FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[crushers]

[quote author=Stickboy
One other question... I've got a good 2F rad and wondering if there are any issues with cooling the 13bt with a rad for a 2F instead of fabricating a mount for the 13bt rad. It'd be easier to just bolt the 2f rad back in and fab some heater hoses. I wasn't sure if there was an issue with the cooling capacity being higher with the 2f and the motor running cooler than normal making the efficiency drop a bit since diesel's like a window of operating temps. Ideas?

Also, does anyone use electric fans? I know that they are common in most 4x4 circles but you don't see much mention of them by cruiserheads. To solve the boxing in of the rad since the motor sits back so far I thought a 24v fan would be the best solution; weld a fitting into the rad (any ideas of location since that seems to be a critical point) for a temp sensor for the fan and off I go.

thanks a bunch everyone,
-mike

Morning Mike,
you are just rocking right along. good to see the progress. the rad from the 2F will be fine for cooling the little 13BT. the same size cools the 3B, 2H, 12HT so you will be fine
i would run a custom shroud from the fan to the rad instead of the elec. as you can guess i am not a big fan of the elec. fans.
keep track of the hours, i will be interested in how long it takes a "newbie" to do the swap.
when you run the exhaust run 2 1/2" or larger with a free flowing muffler.
congrates on the progress.

Wayne

 

[Stickboy]

So I spent several hours today creating motor mounts. After discussion from several folks about engine placement I ended up hanging it as low as possible while giving myself at least 1" if the axle was to hit the stops. I originally was also trying to get the flanges of the rear diff and tranny to be parallel but then realized that the t-case 4wd output and front diff wouldn't be parallel, so my efforts weren't worth it. I also compared the angles of the flanges on the bj74 and found they were almost 15 degrees different. I guess my worry was for not.

Anyway, to make the motor mounts I used the old 2F mount brackets and did some cutting/welding to make the right fit. I ended up adding some angle iron to the R side to make it have enough contact with the frame to get a good weld in. I used the flexible piece on the R from the bj74 and on the left I used the flexible piece from the FJ60. This was mostly due to space constraints. The 74's give you more height since the bolts are offset.

Below are pictures of the motor mounts...

Right mount:

 

[Stickboy]

as it sits in the compartment:

 

[Stickboy]

Left mount:

 

[Stickboy]

I'm not going to show you the left mount as it sits on the frame because my welds don't look to great. Structurally they are good but as always I'm picky about the appearance so I started to fill one little spot and since the space was so limited I ended up adding a bunch of drippy goo to the surface and I can't get the grinder into the space without pulling the motor/tranny. Maybe the dremel tool will come out later.

Anyway here's the motor as it sits in the compartment:

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Boy that looks great. I need to read the other thread but that looks like a halfway decent BJ74 to me too unless I'm missing something here... That should be absoluetely sweet..

 

[crushers]

Hey Mike,
it looks tiny in that compartment, eh?
how is the heater hoses going to work out? do you have enough room between the turbo and the firewall for the lines?

Wayne

 

[Stickboy]

Wayne,
working on the right now, think i'm going to custom bend some metal coolant lines and build a heat shield. Any idea of how to put the little bulge in the end of the coolant line. Folks have suggested I put a compression fitting on then remove the nut leaving the ring. I think that'll be too big of a bump though. I guess I could double clamp the lines on a smooth metal piece.

-mike

 

[crushers]

Afternoon Mike,
you will need a large flare tool to do it right. you could probably make one if you needed to.
looking good.
i have to say i am very happy to see the engine in place already. that is so cool.

Wayne

 

[Stickboy]

Not much progress today... only had 1-1/2 hours to work. Was able to paint the motor mounts with a couple of coats, another layer of bondo on the rear corner of the 60 that had been smashed and then fussed with putting the boots over the shift levers. What a PITA! to get the bolts back in. Partly this is because the boots from a FJ60 and those of a BJ74 are different and the levers sit differently making the rubber not sit the way it wants. So... you end up battling the little 10mm bolts forever to get them lined up. Ended up using a drift pin to set them straight.

Dropped the radiator off too to be hot tanked, pressure tested, and a small leak fixed. Will mount that next with the A/C.

-mike

 

[Radd Cruisers]

To get the levers in the right position you may need to heat the shifters and bend them over. Works pretty good, make sure you do not heat them to low to distort the bushing and melt the rubber cap.

Quick question, did the H55 bolt up to your four speed cross member and locat that sucker in the right postiton?

You sure got lucky with the motor mounts, on the HZ we did we had to fab up two new mounts and in the end they are way beefy.

Now you are faced with all the 24 volt gismozs, how are you dealing with all the gauges and the 24 volt start and runs system?

Rob

 

[TOZOVR]

I think he mentioned running a converter.

 

[Stickboy]

Hi Rob,
On the shifters they do sit a slight bit toward the passenger compartment but easily within comfortable shifting position. I don't think I'll heat and bend them yet but that wouldn't be too difficult to do. thanks for the idea...

Yes the H55 bolted right up to the H42 crossmember. Getting it into position for bolting to the frame was a little tricky by myself with an engine attached to the front but with a little jacking here and there plus some other force it went in just fine. It was looking like the t-case vacuum shift was going to hang up on the crossmember bracket on the frame and I began to pull it off but that didn't work out so a little more fiddling and in she went kind of crooked at first then straightened her out. Funny thing with the short 13bt compared to the 2f i had to remove the front crossmember and bumper to be able to move my engine hoist in close enough to have the tranny mount up. If only I had a little bit beefier hoist with a 6 ft arm (or an overhead crane for that matter.)

At this point with the 24v stuff I'm going to look at approaching it with a hybrid approach (24 and 12 system). I might change later based on some pretty convincing comments by others but at this point i'm going to have them split. I have a very reliable converter that i've been running my house on now for several years and have good confidence in it (Solar Converters 12/24-20). I talked with them and they say this is a fairly common solution.

My approach now is to finish the mechanical stuff first then cooling/A-C system and then delve into the electrical last.

Any comments are really appreciated since I'm really going about this blind and based on past mechanical and no Land Cruiser experience. I'm a converted VW diesel guy.

-mike

 

[rick_d]

if you want a 12V starter, get a mini truck 2L or 2L-T US Toyota rebuild. The motor drive and solenoid are 100% interchangable with the gear nosecoses of all gear redux diesel starters (my 1HD-T nosecone required longer internal bolts, that's all).

several companies make 12v electric vacuum pumps, which then would make the alternator an easy switch to everything else.

many (including mine and greg r's) J74 japan-canadian import glow screen systems DO NOT WORK. screens should be able to work on 12/24, and then the relay systems would have to e switched.

FJ62 (12v) vacuum transfer stuff can be used as well.

of course, the muffler bearing will have to be replaced.

 

[beanz2]

Rick, Marv has a brand new 13B-T glow screen for sale.

Dave

 

[rick_d]

dave-

I live in the desert! over the coldest nights (29F) I would just bump it 2-3 times to get it started. smoked a little more (well, a white vail) but once running I had no issues.

rick

 

[Stickboy]

Today i was able to hang the drivelines in the 60. to my surprise the drivelines seem to fit from the original h42 setup. I was under the impression they'd have to be lengthened/shortened to work. I had to expand them 3/4" and 1/4", front and rear, respectively.

I put a post out in the Cruiser Tech section on the length but maybe someone can comment here as well. In the picture below I denote "x" as the distance I measured. Front in 1-3/4" and rear 1-3/8". I'm wondering if this is acceptable, it seems that the majority of the spider sleeve is in the driveline. I couldn't find a number in the body/chassis manual that says what length must be in the driveling for it to be acceptable.

-mike

 

[Stickboy]

I forgot to mention that I began working on the accelerator pedal issue today. The fj60 is all linkage, the bj74 is all cable and what would work best for me is a BJ60 setup. I looked at the 74 stuff and it could work but would probably require drilling several holes in the firewall, which i'd rather avoid. I put this on hold a while until I can find out if anyone has the engine compartment side bj60 components available to sell. This would make things much easier it seems unless someone has a good idea for me to try.

If anyone has these parts drop me a PM. I've attached a modified drawing of the parts i need. I need everything but those circled in red.

thanks again,
-mike

 

[beanz2]

Put a zip tie around the x'ed area and get 4-5 friends of yours to jump and down on the rear bumper to try to bottom the rear suspension on the bumpstops. If the zip tie moves up to the end of the travel, the driveshaft is too long. Then jack up the rear until both wheels are off the ground, make sure there is at least 1" spline engagement. Then do the same to the front.

Theoretically at least, if you swap in an H55 in place of the H42, and the transfer is the same and is on the same location as before, the driveshafts should be the right length. Congrats on the steady progress.

Dave

 

[crushers]

Mike,
when i was poking around int he garage i thought i saw exactly what you are looking for. i will take another look today and let you know.
the BJ setup will work just fine and you might even be able to use the original pedal.
you want the manual throttle control also?
the 3/4" shorter drivesahft should be fine and if that is the case then the rear should be fine also since the t/case size is the same as the original.
excellent progress.

Wayne