13BT into a FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Stickboy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
sounds like its coming along! can't wait to start my conversion. gotta love the hand throttles 
.
Nice avatar, i hope to run VO when I get mine running. keep us posted!
.Nice avatar, i hope to run VO when I get mine running. keep us posted!
- Thread starter
- #43
Been a couple of days since i did much work to the cruiser. Last night got in there and routed all the coolant lines and the vac lines to the brakes and t-case. pretty straight forward. had to modify some brackets a little for the vac reservoir and the large vac line to small metal line for the t-case vac lines. all in all it's going well.
still waiting for the rad to come back from the shop so i can then figure out where to hang the batteries and work on the air cleaner. that appears to be the biggest issue so far with space. It doesn't fit all that well and i've thought about some small cleanable cone filter (not a K&N but a fine micron one but still don't know about water and cold air issues).
The biggest issue so far i'm curious for help on is the clutch. the bj74 is vac assisted where as the fj60 isn't. i need to use the slave from the 74 to bolt to the h55 but i'd like to use the master from the 60. without thinking too hard i'm wondering if i can pair those together and get the same movement out of the pushrod. i wasn't sure if the ratios inside the master/slave cylinders would work together. any ideas?
Last night i began tearing the wiring harness out of the 74. boy that's fun. unwrapped all the loom and will start cutting out unecessary parts tonight then move over to the 60.
coming along slowly. it's amazing what 2 little boys and a couple of
s do to the productivity.
-mike
still waiting for the rad to come back from the shop so i can then figure out where to hang the batteries and work on the air cleaner. that appears to be the biggest issue so far with space. It doesn't fit all that well and i've thought about some small cleanable cone filter (not a K&N but a fine micron one but still don't know about water and cold air issues).
The biggest issue so far i'm curious for help on is the clutch. the bj74 is vac assisted where as the fj60 isn't. i need to use the slave from the 74 to bolt to the h55 but i'd like to use the master from the 60. without thinking too hard i'm wondering if i can pair those together and get the same movement out of the pushrod. i wasn't sure if the ratios inside the master/slave cylinders would work together. any ideas?
Last night i began tearing the wiring harness out of the 74. boy that's fun. unwrapped all the loom and will start cutting out unecessary parts tonight then move over to the 60.
coming along slowly. it's amazing what 2 little boys and a couple of
s do to the productivity.-mike
I suppose you can just try it using your stock FJ60 master and the BJ74's slave. If you can, compare piston diameters between the 60 and the 74 to get some idea. The larger the master, the heavier the pedal will be, but the more movement you get out of the slave, and vice versa for smaller master.
Why not swap the boosted clutch master from the BJ74? It would be cool.
Dave
Why not swap the boosted clutch master from the BJ74? It would be cool.
Dave
i was under the impression that direct injection diesels didn't require glow plugs... at least the 11-b (or something) direct injection truck i had at work didn't have them
[quote author=bad_religion_au link=board=21;threadid=13204;start=msg132922#msg132922 date=1081146027]
i was under the impression that direct injection diesels didn't require glow plugs... at least the 11-b (or something) direct injection truck i had at work didn't have them
[/quote]
They use a glow screen for the most part. The 1HD-T uses glow plugs.
i was under the impression that direct injection diesels didn't require glow plugs... at least the 11-b (or something) direct injection truck i had at work didn't have them
[/quote]
They use a glow screen for the most part. The 1HD-T uses glow plugs.
- Thread starter
- #47
Last night i finished the brackets for the brake vac reservoir and got the VSVs mounted for the t-case shift. Everything went easy there just hoping that i'm not going to have problems with my exhaust having to come down through a cutout in the R fender well so it can travel along the outside of the R frame rail then crossover.
I also finished the routing of the coolant lines. Had to modify a few of the existing metal lines so they'd clear the exhaust plus extend them a little since the FJ60 lines in that area were hose. Ended up routing the return line in front of the motor instead of around the back. Ended up being a pretty clean run.
I also finished the routing of the coolant lines. Had to modify a few of the existing metal lines so they'd clear the exhaust plus extend them a little since the FJ60 lines in that area were hose. Ended up routing the return line in front of the motor instead of around the back. Ended up being a pretty clean run.
- Thread starter
- #48
Started working on the wiring harness since the rad just got back from the shop and haven't had time to fit it yet.
Took the approach of removing the dash completely (see pic) and then pulling one side of the harness through. I labeled everything and am now just following everything I don't need and removing it. Took some time to remove all the tape and loom from the harness. Seems like this will work ok. Already got rid of most of the wires that went through the R side firewall. All that's left are those essential for engine running.
sorry about the fuzzy pic, didn't realize the focus until i got up to the house.
Took the approach of removing the dash completely (see pic) and then pulling one side of the harness through. I labeled everything and am now just following everything I don't need and removing it. Took some time to remove all the tape and loom from the harness. Seems like this will work ok. Already got rid of most of the wires that went through the R side firewall. All that's left are those essential for engine running.
sorry about the fuzzy pic, didn't realize the focus until i got up to the house.
theferg
SILVER Star
Wow. You're movin' right along on that sucker. At the rate you're goin', I'll be expecting my drive-by down here in Utah around mid-June or so...
-Ferg-
-Ferg-
- Thread starter
- #50
Little more progress today. Went to House of Hose in Spokane the other day and had a high pressure power steering line and clutch line made up. Took a piece of heavy wire and formed it to the bends i needed to clear all the obstructions and brought that to them to match. worked really well. $35 a hose. Went with the stainless braid for the clutch. I think i'm going to see how she works without the vac assist and then decide from there.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Threads
- 559
- Messages
- 8,112
- Location
- Kamloops, BC Canada
- Website
- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
Looking real good...........
I personally would of run soft from the pump to the front of the frame and then bend hard line and run it around the frontof the frame then soft line to the pump (was that confusing enough?).
Just like the FJ60s did, we did this on a FJ45, makes for clean engine compartment and less to snag on when adjusting valves etc.
Rob
I personally would of run soft from the pump to the front of the frame and then bend hard line and run it around the frontof the frame then soft line to the pump (was that confusing enough?).
Just like the FJ60s did, we did this on a FJ45, makes for clean engine compartment and less to snag on when adjusting valves etc.
Rob
- Thread starter
- #54
done a little work since last post.
fit the air cleaner and ps pump in plus hooked the AC back up. Had to fab a bracket for the ps pump that mounts to the side of the air cleaner. worked pretty well. the air cleaner ended up mounting to the fender well at a slight angle but allowed for easy and stable attachment. just utilized a couple of existing holes in the fender and drilled the air box out. going to house of hose to get some duct for the air intake on Friday. I was able to place the air cleaner back far enough to allow for the battery tray plus about 4" of space for the air duct to travel into the body and utilize the port next to the right headlight.
fit the air cleaner and ps pump in plus hooked the AC back up. Had to fab a bracket for the ps pump that mounts to the side of the air cleaner. worked pretty well. the air cleaner ended up mounting to the fender well at a slight angle but allowed for easy and stable attachment. just utilized a couple of existing holes in the fender and drilled the air box out. going to house of hose to get some duct for the air intake on Friday. I was able to place the air cleaner back far enough to allow for the battery tray plus about 4" of space for the air duct to travel into the body and utilize the port next to the right headlight.
- Thread starter
- #55
stripped the 74 wiring harness down to next to nothing the other night. was able to get it out of the 74 and onto the shop floor. i'm sick of tracing wires without a good wiring diagram. all i have is an 85 70 series gas pot diagram. works ok, mostly chasing the wires from their origination and cutting them away. see the pic of all the leftovers. if anyone has a diagram for a 86 bj74 with 13bt that'd be really great. especially if it's electronic format and hi res. thanks,
here's a pic of all that's left of the harness, will try and fit it into the 60 here this week. plan on covering everything 24v with blue loom to distinguish from the 12v systems.
here's a pic of all that's left of the harness, will try and fit it into the 60 here this week. plan on covering everything 24v with blue loom to distinguish from the 12v systems.
- Thread starter
- #57
had a piece of 20g sheet metal bent into a circle to form a box for the rad. i'm not sure about it but wondering if you all could make a judgement for me as to whether it's boxed in enough based on the pic below. it seems that most fans have a box back covering the fan, it wouldn't be so easy to do that here since the rad sits higher than the bottom of the fan. i could do some special sheet metal work but i'd rather not. since the rad is significantly bigger than the original 74 rad do you all think the box is acceptable for that motor? i don't want to weld anything until i decide on this...
wow,
that's is awesome.
def some inspiration for me to get lookin at the diesel option.
nice work man, and keep it up.
malphrus
that's is awesome.
def some inspiration for me to get lookin at the diesel option.
nice work man, and keep it up.
malphrus
- Thread starter
- #60
So i went to the hose shop and found some really slick hose. 3" vacuum bendable ribbed hose as you can see in the pic. this stuff will bend a 10" radius and not collapse at all. The routing of the air intake worked out slick since a matching hole in the body is on the R side that I could just thread the hose into. Hose was a little spendy at $4.75/ft.
