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13BT into a FJ60

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Stickboy, Mar 15, 2004.

  1. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    About 4 mos. ago now I started this project. The first hurdle was to figure out what motor would be best in my 60. The end cruiser is going to be a daily driver for my wife and I running 100% biodiesel. Economy is more of an issue for us than power, but we do need enough power to drive comfortably and safely. We currently have an 03 VW TDI Jetta and an 86 Turbo Diesel Jetta. Our plans are to ditch the 03 and swap for the Landcruiser. This is because we have 2 little boys (3 and 4 mos.) that don't fit in the 03 very well.

    So I struggled with 13BT/3B+T/1HZ/12HT for some time. 3B+T turns out to be closely priced to a 13BT if you buy the AXT kit. 1HZ looks good but sounds like it drinks a little too much diesel. 12HT sure drives nice (after driving Wayne's) but I think it would drink too much as well for my liking. 13BT seems to be the answer for acceptable power (many will contest this I'm sure) and best mileage possible of the choices.

    I also decided that the 4 speed had to go so an H55 was in the picture now.

    I looked around a fair bit for a 13BT/H55 and nothing was easily available at the time. So my decision was to buy a BJ74 and rip the guts out and transplant into the 60. I know it's controversial (see BJ74 Importing Adventure thread) but in the end this is definately the best way to go for me never having done this swap before.

    So the 74 is sitting next to the 60 now in the shop and I've begun the disassembly process. I'll chronicle my days in this post to let you all know the process and I'll detail all the problems/successes I run into in detail. I plan on making a pdf of the whole process once I'm done and making that available to anyone.

    Here are a couple starter pics:
    this is the 60 recipient of a new motor. It needs some body work but is virtually rust free after I fixed the inner rear wheel wells. The right rear quarter panel was crunched by a pole years ago so that is getting some attention (hopefully some day a new panel).
     
  2. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    So far I've taken the front off the 74 and drained fluids, and have started marking and disconnecting the wiring harness. I think I'm going to remove the harness and install it in the 60 as is. I'm also going to have a 12v system for all the lights/radio/dash/fan that'll tap off the 24v system using a Solarconverters 12/24-20 DC-DC converter. They work fantastic for this and can equalize batteries at a 20a rate. If you draw more than that it just takes a little time for it to catch up.

    here's a pic of the 74 as of today:
     
  3. HZJ60 Guy

    HZJ60 Guy Tank Buster

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    I believe that I am going to cry!


    Whimper, whimper.


    Sigh!



    TB :banana: :p :banana:
     
  4. wesintl

    wesintl

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    do you have a list of parts and prices from the doner 74?
     
  5. notagp_afj55

    notagp_afj55

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    Mike
    Just sent you a Email
    Looks like this is going to be a very cool transplant and is
    going to solve your need for a good eco-diesel...

    Is it hard to get or make biodiesel in moscow? I am from
    Yakima originally which is a good agricultural area also
    but dont know if the fuel is avail. there?
    JimK
     
  6. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    Hang on to the donor vehicle until you are 100% done. If there is a part left on the donor you really need you can always get it. Also you will need to see how or where some parts are attached, etc.

    Dave
     
  7. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    Out came the motor in a couple of hours. The biggest part was labeling the elec/vac/and coolant connections. No headaches what so ever so far...

    Here are a couple of pics of the removal:
     
  8. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    The motor pulled...
     
  9. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    74 without any motor...
     
  10. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    Today my plan was to hang the motor/tranny in the 60 and mount the tranny up and see where the motor sits. I will then make some motor mounts for the engine.

    Here's the engine compartment before motor and after....
     
  11. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    I dropped the motor/tranny in and went to line up the transmission with the crossmember. I had to use the crossmember from my H42 tranny to fit the frame mounts. The tranny was a little fussy going in since its a vacuum shift t-case. The vac diaphragm gets in the was easily of the crossmember mounts. After a little fussing and jacking/pushing it went in ok.

    Here she sits...
     
  12. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    I'm trying to figure out now how high to mount the motor. My dilemna is that it sits better in the compartment if it's lower but I don't want it too low so the oil pan can hit the front axle if it maxes out the stops.

    Any comments on this?

    -mike
     
  13. beanz2

    beanz2 Moderator

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    The easiest is to see where the stock 2F oil pan sits in an FJ60 and keep the 3B pan at the same level. Or, just keep the oil pan above an imaginary line between the bumpstops? Maybe add some margin for safety...

    Dave
     
  14. roscoFJ73

    roscoFJ73

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    Ive thought about this for my 1HZ swap.As far as I know the radiator is in the same position for all the engine variants of a 60.So if the correct shroud is fitted the fan should be central to the shroud.If you get a similar result from bean2 suggestion you will be close.
    Another way is to bolt the engine and engine mounts to the chassis brackets,and see where they sit in relation to the frame.
     
  15. Radd Cruisers

    Radd Cruisers

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    [quote author=roscoFJ73 link=board=21;threadid=13204;start=msg124653#msg124653 date=1079881104]
    Ive thought about this for my 1HZ swap.As far as I know the radiator is in the same position for all the engine variants of a 60.So if the correct shroud is fitted the fan should be central to the shroud.If you get a similar result from bean2 suggestion you will be close.
    Another way is to bolt the engine and engine mounts to the chassis brackets,and see where they sit in relation to the frame.
    [/quote]
     
  16. Radd Cruisers

    Radd Cruisers

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    [quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=21;threadid=13204;start=msg124699#msg124699 date=1079894005]

    [/quote]

    Whoooops......

    For the 1HZ we had to make up some engine mounts(by the way I had promised a set to someone and cannot find the templates), then a rad was purchased from Enz toyota for less than a recore.

    The rad is out of a 75 mining truck and the inlet and outlet are lined up. You will need to weld some tabs on the original rad mounts.

    Rob
     
  17. Radd Cruisers

    Radd Cruisers

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    Stickboy, that is one clean loooking rig.

    Good work

    Rob
     
  18. VTCruiser

    VTCruiser

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    That was me! :D sent ya a PM
     
  19. Stickboy

    Stickboy

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    Thanks for the input on the height everyone.

    Talking with guys today at work regarding moving the brake/clutch lines everything is backwards (I mean on the other side :)) I'm thinking of going the stainless braided route with Earl's products. They seem easy and clean looking. Anyone have any comments.

    One other question... I've got a good 2F rad and wondering if there are any issues with cooling the 13bt with a rad for a 2F instead of fabricating a mount for the 13bt rad. It'd be easier to just bolt the 2f rad back in and fab some heater hoses. I wasn't sure if there was an issue with the cooling capacity being higher with the 2f and the motor running cooler than normal making the efficiency drop a bit since diesel's like a window of operating temps. Ideas?

    Also, does anyone use electric fans? I know that they are common in most 4x4 circles but you don't see much mention of them by cruiserheads. To solve the boxing in of the rad since the motor sits back so far I thought a 24v fan would be the best solution; weld a fitting into the rad (any ideas of location since that seems to be a critical point) for a temp sensor for the fan and off I go.

    thanks a bunch everyone,
    -mike
     
  20. bad_religion_au

    bad_religion_au

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    i was told that diesels run inherantly cooler than petrols anyway, so if the rad cooled the 2f, it should cool a 13bt... but don't quote me on that if it melts :)
     
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