13BT into a FJ60

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worked on the electrical the other day and was able to get the batteries all installed. I had to fabricate a driver side battery box from scratch but it worked well. The indentations were in the L fender for the tray to sit flat and the holes were in the body for bolts already. I ended up adding a couple more brackets to the box for the coolant reservoir and the dc-dc converter to mount to. Made some battery cables up and ran the lead to the starter. Going with either blue loom or a blue elec tape wrap to denote anything 24v in the car. everything else will be black and signifying 12v.

here's a pic of the battery trays:
 
Here's what she looks like so far. was able to get the grill, bumper, rad support and a/c back on the other day.

started to mount the electrical components on the driver side fender today. Got most everything mounted but didn't have the camera with me.

I purchased a Racor 645R242 heated fuel filter the other day. It'll be here soon. It's a 24v model that'll flow 45gph at a 2 micron filtration rate. Since i'm planning on running 100% biodiesel in the 60 I thought the heated option would work well for keeping high concentrations of BD in the cold months. I ordered Gates 4912G hose as well since it's rated for biodiesel as well. I'm thinking i'll put a cheapo NAPA fuel filter before the Racor to catch dislodged crap from the tank since the BD will free past crap in the system. I think I'm leaning toward removing the existing fuel filter and building a bracket to mount the racor there. The biggest issue with that will be adapting the banjo fittings and the hard lines from the fuel pump to the Racor. We'll see how it looks when it gets here. Any ideas?
 
for real.

wow.


malphrus
 
What a night. 3 hrs in the shop and i undid what i did several times. anyway, i got a wide piece of sheet metal (5-3/4" x 19.5" diam.) for the radiator shroud. Welded it to the shroud from the 2f radiator and thought i'd put it in place. first i painted it. then realized that the battery tray i installed had to come out along with the fan/clutch. shroud went in nicely but reinstalling the fan was a PITA. luckily i have pretty small forearms and can fit them between the shroud and the fan.
Also was able to get some elec features installed, glow plug relay, starter relay, dc-dc converter, and coolant reservoir tank. Was able to get the wires ran for the converter.

the racor filter arrived today and i'm trying to figure out where to install it. I think i'm going to leave the stock filter in place have the racor feed the pump so I'll have the option of sucking heated fuel in winter and have the NAPA filters before the racor until the gunk is gone from my tank/lines.
 
Worked on her some more tonight. Went to Napa the other day and searched through the wall of radiator hoses looking for the right ones. I bent stiff wire in the shape of the hoses I needed and then began the trial and error process of finding the hoses with the right bends. $40 later I had the right hoses. Ended up not using one because in my haste I didn't realize the inlet on the engine isn't 1.5"ID like the others but closer to 1.75"ID. So I cut the old hose and fitted it with a new one with a 1.5" ID copper fitting connecting the two. Ended up working really well. Plenty of room to clear the tensioner pulley.

After that I mounted the Racor filter. I was going to go off the fender but since filters some times get torqued on removing them I thought I'd mount to something sturdier. The bracket the stock filter mounts to was really easy to fabricate a bracket to. 15 minutes later I had a bracket and away we went. Routed the hoses from the metal lines on the right side frame rail. I used an old emissions vacuum line for the fuel return since it passed from the right to left sides behind the motor. It exits right at the filter as well. Worked out pretty slick.

As for fuel hose, I'm using the Gates 4219G 5/16 ID hose which is a synthetic nitrile hose suitable for most fuels including biodiesel which has a high alcohol content that will cause rubber lines to weep over time. Had to order it from afar but at .56/ft it wasn't too bad.

Wayne is sending me the linkage for the throttle this week. So hopefully I'll be done with everything mechanical soon and finish up with the electrical, which I'm imagining is going to be a PITA.

-mike
 
any new stuff stickboy?

...must...feed...addiction....



malphrus
 
oh i know. he's absolutely truckin.

a boy can still dream can't he? :D


malphrus
 
Mike,
Hows the wiring coming along? Did you do it all in the truck or did you pull it and do it "on the bench"? I've pulled the wiring from the '55 to do the same thing as you. I'm curious on any problems you may have encountered.
 
So here's the latest. not much. 2 sick little boys at home. my work schedule on the rig is at 9 pm when the boys go to bed, i drink a beer and go to the shop until 1 am.

i did finally get all the filter numbers and went to napa and am planning on getting the rig all lubed up and ready to go. found a bunch of 12v relays on ebay in seattle to control most of the circuits.

Also talked to steve at backwoodsolar.com yesterday about a digital ammeter that'll measure both the current flow on the 12v side of the dc-dc converter as well as the direct 24v loads off the battery (a/c, glow screen, transfer). They have ammeter that'll do this with a 100a shunt and measure tenths of an amp and it has 2 separate voltage leads for 12 and 24 that if I SPDT switch them I can select between the two. all for $62. pretty slick deal.

I've stripped down most of the wiring after digging through the 3b online manual at birfield and the body/chassis manual. I'm down to about 8 significant wires and an unknown on one relay and plug I didn't label. PITA. Anyone have any idea of what the relay does that comes from the charge fuse and is actuated by a signal that ties to the 4wd indicator in the instrument cluster? Baffled. '

Cruiser_guy - i've done all the wiring so far on the bench (floor). it's been much easier to follow the wires this way and eliminate the unecessary ones. I tried in the truck at first but spent the 2 hrs or so and just ripped the harness out in one piece and layed it on the floor in the rough shape it was so my brain wasn't too confused.

I figure i have about 20hrs left. At the rate I'm going lately that'll be 2 mos. Hopefully i can pick it up and have the rig running in the next 2 weeks. Exhaust is still left, struggling with whether to bring it to a shop and have it done or buy a kit of tubes/bends and weld it myself.
Probably bring it to a shop....

-mike
 
thanks for the update stickboy

get them kids well, aight



malphrus
 
[quote author=Stickboy

I figure i have about 20hrs left. At the rate I'm going lately that'll be 2 mos. Hopefully i can pick it up and have the rig running in the next 2 weeks. Exhaust is still left, struggling with whether to bring it to a shop and have it done or buy a kit of tubes/bends and weld it myself.
Probably bring it to a shop....

-mike

If you have the time I would buy the bends and do it right, you will be much more happy with the outcome unless you know of a shop with a proper bender that will not crush the corners.
 
Working on the electrical in the rig now. Laid the whittled down wiring harness and went to work installing. I'm going to run the harness inside the engine compartment and only take lines through the firewall that need to be inside. Most of the inside wiring is accessories anyway. I'm going to use the starter wiring from fj60 to activate a relay that will throw the BJ74 starter relay.

I was amazed to find out that the Glow Plug timer fits exactly where the Fj60 emission control sits. What a bonus. I thought i was going to have to screw it to something. very clean looking install now. I did a little carving to make the world largest switch fit in the dash. That's the 4wd transfer switch i'm talking about. It fits well and is all wired up now.

I'm still baffled by the relay that has it's activation circuit hooked to the 4wd indicator on the instrument console. It also ties in with the charge circuit fuse and the main engine plug. Any ideas of what it's purpose is? The relay is only 3A.

I went and bought all the NAPA filters for this thing the other day. Thanks to the folks on the birfield list for helping out with 13bt filter numbers. Will be filling with new synthetic fluids later this week and hopefully turning her over.

-mike
 
Made some big progression on the electrical.

I wired in my 12v relays, 2 of them. One controls the signals when the key is in the start position and the other when the key is in the on position. I tapped into the two lines near the old distributor going to the coil and starter and utilized their 12v to throw the relays and switch 24v. Tried it briefly and the starter kicked over. Pretty exciting to hear the motor again.

After that I pulled the instrument cluster down and put the charge light in the spot of the seat belt light and the preheat light in the place of the choke light. should work ok. I would have liked to put the charge light in the circuit of the charge lamp on the cluster but looking at the wiring diagram it's circuit ties to other items on the cluster and dealing with the 24v issue wouldn't be fun. So I settled for the seat belt light and I'll put a little sticker on it saying "charge".

I think I've figured the fuses out now after much headache. I'm going with all individual fuses under the hood in protective shields. A slick waterproof box would've been really slick but I only have 5 fuses on the 24 side anyway.

I wired in the ammeter last night on the 12v side just to see what sort of loads i can come up with. It was a little more work than i thought because I had to undue some other stuff around the neg terminal and make a bracket for the 100a shunt. Once that was done and the wires ran I turned on everything I could and the load max was 16.3a. Pretty exciting since the dc-dc converter will equalize at a 20a rate. Leaves a little room to fudge. I'm going to run any future accessories at 24v if possible. I did custom order a 24v heater for the Racor filter since it has a draw of 5A@24vdc, double that with 12v.

I swapped all the fluids in the cruiser - (tranny/t-case/engine oil/coolant/ps/clutch). That took some time but I'm ready to fire her up now. Does anyone see a problem with driving it a short distance to the exhaust shop without any exhaust. I plan on cutting something to put in temporarily to keep the exhaust from exiting right onto the brake/electrical and damaging it. Just a short chunk.

Drained the fuel tank as well. Will blow out any residual gas in the lines tomorrow and put some diesel in to prime the system.

A friend brought up the point that diesel filler nozzles won't fit into the gas nozzle. Any ideas without dismantling the filler pipe drastically?

-mike
 
I drove my BJ60 to the exhaust shop after my AXT turbo with only a tailpiece off the turbo down to about 1/2 way down the firewall.
Keep a light foot on the fuel (to keep temps down) and you should be OK.
Swap out your filler neck with a BJ/HJ60 neck. I'm sure Wayne can help out there. Filler necks are not exactly hot sellers at the wreckers!
Did you integrate the EDIC and all that stuff in your wiring as well? I'm curious as I'm integrating everything in the '55 wiring. I hope to fire it up in a week or so and see if I did it right!
 
[quote author=Stickboy link=board=21;threadid=13204;start=msg159751#msg159751 date=1084948326]

I swapped all the fluids in the cruiser - (tranny/t-case/engine oil/coolant/ps/clutch). That took some time but I'm ready to fire her up now. Does anyone see a problem with driving it a short distance to the exhaust shop without any exhaust. I plan on cutting something to put in temporarily to keep the exhaust from exiting right onto the brake/electrical and damaging it. Just a short chunk.

A friend brought up the point that diesel filler nozzles won't fit into the gas nozzle. Any ideas without dismantling the filler pipe drastically?

-mike
[/quote]

No problems driving it to the exhaust shop unless you run into a cop :)

There used to be adapters you can buy at JC Whitney to fit regular leaded gas nozzles into unleaded tanks but I haven't seen those for the past 10 years now. You either get a BJ60 filler neck or enlarge the opening. Yes, you will have to dismantle the filler neck, you dont want the metal pieces in your tank anyway.

Keep in mind the diesel nozzles at truck stops are much larger than the diesel nozzles in regular gas stations. Measure those and make sure the hole you make can accept them too, you never know when you need to fill up at truck stops.

Dave
 
There is no EDIC on the 13BT's. Vacumn shut-down (air starvation) and that's it! Tis a wonderful thing.

gb
 
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