06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (7 Viewers)

[hewitttech]

my advice... Stay after them for some kind of fix. I continually get 41, 42, and 45s and I have the gen 3.
While our installs and circumstance are completely different this shouldn't be a THING for either of us.
Yours should be even easier to pin down, and the money you spend should guarantee that.
Not a response like, we had a bad batch, or second batch is good when it isn't, wiring bad, etc.
I'll get some s*** for that I'm sure. But for the money, for 2006 and 7 LC or LX, the gen 3 does not work in multiple examples with components removed or not removed.
Stay with gen one, the 150 dollar version, and if it's like the 3 years ago version it should be good to go. Never mind that money might be needed for vacuum lines, valves, or sensors. All that stuff needs be functional.

safe mode on the freeway isn't a big deal. You do need to pull off and reset though. It's not like no brakes, no damage is occurring when it happens. Use a BT reader.

IF I lived in a cold climate I'd be calling Hewitt everyday. I don't care to waste a year looking for cold days here and there to recheck drivers or codes.
The LX and LC sai versions are different without a doubt compared to tundra etc.
I'm over it.

Please send me a PM or give us a call so I can get your information. Your case seems familiar and I want to make sure that we still have a trouble ticket open for you. At this time all of our Gen2-3V are on production hold until we can properly identify the issue and fix it. It is easy to say this is a trivial problem to figure out, it is not. The Gen2-3V units for the 4.7L vehicles are by far the most complex units that we make. Please be patient while we work on fixing the problem, I assure you we will get the problem taken care of for you one way or the other.

 

[gold99xx]

Unfortunately there is really no other options. You can try to completely replace the system with factory parts as the current service bulletin says but time and time again I have still seen the freezing temperature glitch persist so do not recommend wasting your money. There really just isn't another solution other than finding the old TIS limited service campaign information so you can update the ECM and this has been a dead end year after year. For several years we had hoped a solution like our Gen2 kits would be able to possibly get around the ECM glitch but even they cannot get around the problem. Currently the only way around it is the warmup above freezing and restart before hitting 50mph in that first run cycle.
You don't have to let it warm up for 10 min and then restart it before driving. You can start driving it cold and as long as you restart the engine before you hit the 50 mph mark and the engine is now above freezing the glitch won't happen. I know this is not exactly what you are looking for but it may make it a little easier to deal with. As soon as initial engine (cold soak starts only) temperatures are above freezing the problem goes away. Again this is only something you would need to do once it has positively been identified as the freezing temperature glitch and only for that first run cycle.

We do occasionally run across this where the problem is both the failing air system and it is also on a vehicle that has the freezing temperature glitch.
To clear up your confusion about how the code can come on at startup and while driving there are 3 ways the P2445 code can come on.
It is not normally possible to get the P2445 code on startup AND have the freezing temperature glitch as the case requirements are different.

1) The normal reason to get a P2445 code is a failing secondary air pump. The system will only normally be commanded to operate on a cold soak start when the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer and the initial engine temperature is above 40F. This is the normal version the bypass kit can prevent because it stops normal operation of the system. It sounds like you had this or valve stuck open codes before you installed the kit which is why you initially had the codes on startup.

2) A damaged pressure sensor. This is rare for a 4.7L three valve configured system but it does occasionally happen. Normally this would exhibit itself as a P2445 code that comes on at random and not tied to startup, freezing temperatures or speed. It is also the second cuase of a P2445 code that cannot be cleared at all with the first reason beign a blown air pump fuse. Likely not your problem but a possibility if your P2445 doesn't match reasons 1 or 3.

3) The freezing temperature glitch which was documented by Toyota well over a decade ago there was a limited service campaign at the time to fix it. This is an extremely specific case for the glitch and and there is currently no actual fix for. Because of the specific conditions required for the glitch to occur it should not be possible to get the freezing temperature glitch as well as a normal p2445 code (case 1).

I have worked on this problem extensively with active and former Toyota Technicians and can confirm the service bulletin existed as I found it myself in TIS 8-9 years ago but did not know they expire and get deleted. Since then I have not been able to find a copy of the service bulletin. The techs I was working with remember performing the work but at the time TIS was done by CD media and even with help have been unable to track down a copy. The service bulletin is the only known possible way to actually fix the freezing temperature glitch. We try to make sure all of our customers are aware of it as there simply isn't' a permanent solution for it.
We have COMPLETELY removed every component of the system from the vehicle as well as replaced all components of the system with brand new factory Toyota parts and the cold weather glitch will still happen.

I question it year after year and exhaustively come to the same conclusion that confirms the original service bulletin that I saw that states it is in fact just a glitch in the ECM software. I make sure that if they have a customer on the phone with an early 4.7L that they are made aware of the possibility of the problem as well as mention it on all of our product listings. There is also a large write-up explanation here on our codes page under P2445: https://hewitt-tech.com/codes/ (the text markup isn't as good as it used to be on our new website as it was our old site yet) Please read this if you haven't already.

If you have any specific questions please PM me or call and ask to speak to me directly.
Paul Hewitt

THANK YOU !!! I have actually installed a remote starter so that I can get a jump on the warm-up, shut down, restart protocol. I did indeed have this happen under two different circumstances and I believe that I may have the glitch AND a pump that is going bad. Interesting to note that when I ran my scanner after having your system unplugged and the factory system plugged back in ( block off plates still installed ) I got a pending code P2445, and then the eventual code. ( after clearing them but before doing the Hewit unplug ) I have since plugged back in the Hewit Gen 1 and cleared the P2445 and now I don't see a pending code or the code in the history. Maybe it was a glitch that fixed itself.

On a separate note, as I was looking over my scan tool app( new to me ) I noticed that one of the two O2 sensors was not reading anything, could this be because of the block-off plates? or have anything to do with the P2445 issue?

Thanks again for your time and answers !

 

[hewitttech]

THANK YOU !!! I have actually installed a remote starter so that I can get a jump on the warm-up, shut down, restart protocol. I did indeed have this happen under two different circumstances and I believe that I may have the glitch AND a pump that is going bad. Interesting to note that when I ran my scanner after having your system unplugged and the factory system plugged back in ( block off plates still installed ) I got a pending code P2445, and then the eventual code. ( after clearing them but before doing the Hewit unplug ) I have since plugged back in the Hewit Gen 1 and cleared the P2445 and now I don't see a pending code or the code in the history. Maybe it was a glitch that fixed itself.

On a separate note, as I was looking over my scan tool app( new to me ) I noticed that one of the two O2 sensors was not reading anything, could this be because of the block-off plates? or have anything to do with the P2445 issue?

Thanks again for your time and answers !

It sounds like you have a failing air pump causing the P2445 on startup when you do not have the module installed. This is a normal failure of the air pump motor and the P2445 code the bypass kit will stop.

The block off plates and P2445 code have nothing to do with your 02 sensors.
It could just be the scan tool you are using not being able to read it.

 

[BCM]

I put the block off plates on my '06 LC. It was no problem. I spent a lot more time coming up with a strategy to get to them them than actually putting them in. It looks more challenging than it turned out to be.

• I used both a 1/4" 10mm deep socket and a 10mm combination wrench.
• I did not have to jack up the truck
• Took the skid plates off
• The passenger side nuts were accessible from the top and bottom.
• On the driver side I removed 5 tabs and one nut from the wheel well to fold the rubber fender apron back. The back of the 5 tabs are exposed from the engine bay so very easy to push the pin and pop out without a removal tool.
• Turned the wheel to the right and was able to get to the nuts from the wheel well and bottom.
• I have a Texas truck with zero rust so once I got to the nuts they came loose surprisingly easy. If that's not the case with yours you might want to hit them with a little PB.

The bypass kit is great. I love never again having to worry about the bypass system.

I found your instructions to be quite helpful. I was putting this off for a variety of reasons and found the chore to be less cumbersome than I imagined. I was able to access the passenger side solely from the top, which prevented pulling the Slee skids. Thanks!

 

[jerryb]

@hewitttech
Mr Paul. that's great info- post #320. We need info like that.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Does anyone know the part number of the studs these 10mm nuts screw onto? I installed my Hewitt kit last week and it was smooth sailing. I got the driver side blocking plate installed with hardly any effort. Then went onto the passenger side. Again, first nut spun pretty easily, then the very last 10mm nut on the outer side of the passenger side...no go. I've used everything I can think of to get that damn nut off. No luck. The nut is now rounded. As a last resort, I dremeled two of the sides of the nut down so I might be able to get a little leverage to get the nut off. Still, no luck. I already purchased new 10mm nuts, but have had zero luck finding a definitive part number for the stud these nuts screw onto. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated.

View attachment 2774918

did you try to wrench them out. I have unused new ones. they only come with new exhaust headers, pre installed.
You can find a bolt and nut store in most cities that will have a matching stud.
And of course, you could just buy a regular bolt and use that.
m6 x 1. 30-35mm long would be fine.
View attachment 2774965

View attachment 2774968

I've had my kit for a few months now and am just getting around to installing it. The control box went in well but needed extra washers in between it and the bracket to keep the pigtails off the bracket edge. I also put some plastic wire loom protector tube on the two plug pigtail to keep them from wearing through on the bracket too.

I had the same problem with the nut as @M3gilly did. The passenger side, outside nut rounded, an Irwin Ez Out nut extractor didn't work to remove the rounded nut. There is no room in there to work. I ended removing the firewall downpipe's heat shield for a little more room.

It looks like @jerryb posted up its an M6x1.0 stud. However, his pic looks like the two ends of the stud are of a different thread pitch. Maybe its the anti seize that makes it look that way.

Even if they are the same pitch though, it looks like that collar on the stud is going to make me have to remove the whole passenger side air pipe just to remove the stud in order to replace. I don't see how a bolt of the 30-35mm length will be able to feed in from the back.

What a stupid design. It should have been a through bolt from the front with a nut on the back. That way the hardware could just be cut off and replaced if it seized up.

Anyway,I looked up part numbers for the studs and nuts on Toyota Parts deal, they are show the stud as "Stud, Hex LOBULAR 90126-08002" and two separate nuts, not sure which is for the lower stud but they are; "Nut 90080-17242" & "Nut, Wire Adjusting 90178-A0023".

To any reading this, just go ahead and have these studs & nuts hardware on hand before you start to install the block-off plates, just in case.

 

[jerryb]

a bolt for sure threads through the back, or the front.

the bore on the 2 hole air pipe flange is greater than the width of an m6 stud or bolt with or without threads.
So if you do nothing but put the right socket on the same side that the nut spins on (facing the rear of the car) then it would just spin out all the way out if it was loose.
Likewise you could thread a bolt from the front as long as you also add a nut for a lock against the air pipe flange to drive the gap closed against the plate if you had too long of a stud and got two blocked.

you made me go outside and look. lol.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

a bolt for sure threads through the back, or the front.

the bore on the 2 hole air pipe flange is greater than the width of an m6 stud or bolt with or without threads.
So if you do nothing but put the right socket on the same side that the nut spins on (facing the rear of the car) then it would just spin out all the way out if it was loose.
Likewise you could thread a bolt from the front as long as you also add a nut for a lock against the air pipe flange to drive the gap closed against the plate if you had too long of a stud and got two blocked.

you made me go outside and look. lol.

Thanks @jerryb

I ended up getting the nut off using the 10mm bolt extractor from AutoZone along with a GearWrench 3/8" adapter and flexible, ratcheting wrench.
The stud stayed put and the threads are still good for reuse.

Conveniently the Autozone kit fills the empty spots in my Irwin Extractor Kit.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[2001LC]

Paul @hewitttech or anyone that has inspected the A.I. pump filter. Please report it's condition? Be it in good condition, missing or damaged in any way. I would really appreciate hearing about it.

Paul, if you've or anyone, insight as to why these filter go bad. Please share it with us all or in a PM to me.

I've been working on solving the CAT failure issue of the 4.7L VVT. This (filter) information is key to my solution.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks guys!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I got mine all installed and took it for a spin. My ScanGauge II showed "READY" on start up but shortly after it went to "NOT READY". No faults are present and the check engine light is out. Cleared it before disconnecting the battery.

Do I need to go through the FSM readiness routine; i.e. drive at various speeds for certain lengths of time, to get it "READY" in order to do a Smog check?

 

[hewitttech]

I got mine all installed and took it for a spin. My ScanGauge II showed "READY" on start up but shortly after it went to "NOT READY". No faults are present and the check engine light is out. Cleared it before disconnecting the battery.

Do I need to go through the FSM readiness routine; i.e. drive at various speeds for certain lengths of time, to get it "READY" in order to do a Smog check?

If you installed a Gen1 bypass kit the system is prevented from running and will never show ready. If this is a Gen2 kit you will need to wait until the system tries to operate normally when the initial engine temp. is above 41F and the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

If you installed a Gen1 bypass kit the system is prevented from running and will never show ready. If this is a Gen2 kit you will need to wait until the system tries to operate normally when the initial engine temp. is above 41F and the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer.

@hewitttech
Thanks for your reply.

I turned it on several times and took it for a short drive over the past couple of days, then today after starting it up and letting it idle, I saw the check engine light on, I scanned the code with my ScanGauge II and it threw the P1442 code. I cleared it but curious as the why it tripped again.
I have your Gen 2 - 3 Valve unit in my '07 LX470. Each time I started the engine the temp has been above 41F. The time it threw the code it had not sat for over 7 hours.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@hewitttech
Thanks for your reply.

I turned it on several times and took it for a short drive over the past couple of days, then today after starting it up and letting it idle, I saw the check engine light on, I scanned the code with my ScanGauge II and it threw the P1442 code. I cleared it but curious as the why it tripped again.
I have your Gen 2 - 3 Valve unit in my '07 LX470. Each time I started the engine the temp has been above 41F. The time it threw the code it had not sat for over 7 hours.

@hewitttech
So I drove it several times after clearing the last P1442 code then I let it sit for greater than 7 hours and outside temp was 43F at startup and I have a pending P1442 code again.

What's up with your Gen 2-3 valve control box? It's supposed to inhibit these codes is it not?

Perhaps it's a faulty box?

I received this kit during the summer. So maybe it was from a bad batch?

Just curious as what is going on here. I'd like to get it ready for a smog check

 

[2001LC]

Paul @hewitttech or anyone that has inspected the A.I. pump filter. Please report it's condition? Be it in good condition, missing or damaged in any way. I would really appreciate hearing about it.

Paul, if you've or anyone, insight as to why these filter go bad. Please share it with us all or in a PM to me.

I've been working on solving the CAT failure issue of the 4.7L VVT. This (filter) information is key to my solution.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks guys!

Seems everyone (one in particular) is ignoring my question. Come on guys/gals, a little help here would be nice. It's for a good cause!

@hewitttech you're likely one of leading expert with S.A.I systems. You more than anyone, have likely seen many S.A.I. pumps (blower) and looked at filterer or lack of.
I once read a post from you. Which was; when we heard turbo or loud vacuum like sound on start up. it's a sign S.A.I. system ready to fail. Why the sound? Could it be this is when filter is gone. I sure found my pump to be loud, without filter.

So again. What condition are you finding these filter of S.A.I pump in?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Seems everyone (one in particular) is ignoring my question. Come on guys/gals, a little help here would be nice. It's for a good cause!

@hewitttech you're likely one of leading expert with S.A.I systems. You more than anyone, have likely seen many S.A.I. pumps (blower) and looked at filterer or lack of.
I once read a post from you. Which was; when we heard turbo or loud vacuum like sound on start up. it's a sign S.A.I. system ready to fail. Why the sound? Could it be this is when filter is gone. I sure found my pump to be loud, without filter.

So again. What condition are you finding these filter of S.A.I pump in?

My guess is most never bother to take the pump out so they aren't able to check the filter.

That's why most buy the @hewitttech kits, so they don't have to open up the intake.

 

[2001LC]

My guess is most never bother to take the pump out so they aren't able to check the filter.

That's why most buy the @hewitttech kits, so they don't have to open up the intake.

That's likely the case for most in this thread.

Although one local guy, that asked I install ( I declined) a block off kit. Said he did have to remove intake manifold for his kit install. Said that one of the kits do require it be removed. Perhaps it wasn't a Hewitt kit, IDK!

But in his case, he did report to me filter was gone. So that's two confirmed cases I know of, filter was gone. In both these cases, CAT also failed.

 

[hewitttech]

@hewitttech
So I drove it several times after clearing the last P1442 code then I let it sit for greater than 7 hours and outside temp was 43F at startup and I have a pending P1442 code again.

What's up with your Gen 2-3 valve control box? It's supposed to inhibit these codes is it not?

Perhaps it's a faulty box?

I received this kit during the summer. So maybe it was from a bad batch?

Just curious as what is going on here. I'd like to get it ready for a smog check

With a Gen2-3V unit there should be no trouble codes being thrown. If there are troubles like this after installation the first thing we look at are the connections to the wiring at the ECM. If the scotchlok connectors were used during the installation we recommend going back and soldering those connections properly. Any extra resistance in those connections and the units will not operate correctly. If you still have problems after doing that please give us a call and shoot us an email. We like to take a look at the physical connections that you have if you can take pictures of them so we can see the bare solder connections and identify the wire colors and pins of the ECM connector.

 

[hewitttech]

Seems everyone (one in particular) is ignoring my question. Come on guys/gals, a little help here would be nice. It's for a good cause!

@hewitttech you're likely one of leading expert with S.A.I systems. You more than anyone, have likely seen many S.A.I. pumps (blower) and looked at filterer or lack of.
I once read a post from you. Which was; when we heard turbo or loud vacuum like sound on start up. it's a sign S.A.I. system ready to fail. Why the sound? Could it be this is when filter is gone. I sure found my pump to be loud, without filter.

So again. What condition are you finding these filter of S.A.I pump in?

From what I have seen the noise is the plastic air pump vanes grinding against the pump body. Once you hear the noise the problem usually gets worse pretty quickly with either total pump vane failure or the pump motor itself draws more and more current as it is harder to spin and the pumps usually end up burning themselves open circuit.
It is entirely possible the start of this could be the filter getting ingested. I may be one of the leading experts but I have not pulled enough of them apart to make any sort of definitive claim of why they fail and just stick with the time and temperature reasoning on the plastic.
As someone else mentioned the whole point of the bypass kit is so you don't have to mess with any of that. There are enough posts around the web from others pulling them apart that there could be some merit to the filter as a start but just not something definitive.

 

[hewitttech]

That's likely the case for most in this thread.

Although one local guy, that asked I install ( I declined) a block off kit. Said he did have to remove intake manifold for his kit install. Said that one of the kits do require it be removed. Perhaps it wasn't a Hewitt kit, IDK!

But in his case, he did report to me filter was gone. So that's two confirmed cases I know of, filter was gone. In both these cases, CAT also failed.

None of our kits require intake manifold removal for any part of the installation. For a short time there we did offer a fully plug and play Gen2-3V that required removal of the intake manifold but no longer offer that version. Too many people were ordering them and were suprised that the intake manifold had to be removed when they got them. They were seeing the "fully plug and play" part of the product description but were ignoring the giant red "requires intake removal for installation" portion so we stopped offering it that way.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

With a Gen2-3V unit there should be no trouble codes being thrown. If there are troubles like this after installation the first thing we look at are the connections to the wiring at the ECM. If the scotchlok connectors were used during the installation we recommend going back and soldering those connections properly. Any extra resistance in those connections and the units will not operate correctly. If you still have problems after doing that please give us a call and shoot us an email. We like to take a look at the physical connections that you have if you can take pictures of them so we can see the bare solder connections and identify the wire colors and pins of the ECM connector.

Thanks for your reply. I did use the crimp connectors to expedite the install as I had a big delay with the block off plate nut rounding .

I will check the connections and solder them in place this time.

The pending P1442 did go away after a few drives today.