Ok, Thank you for all of your feedback. I will update what I end up doing. I understand this is a violation of the Clean Air Act so the bypass is illegal. However, I am curious if you would pass an inspection with a bypass installed?
06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass
- Thread starter TexasCrane
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I just registered mine here in Nevada and we just have to do SMOG and mine passed. I just got my tags yesterday for 2025. I guess it depends on the state/city if they will scrutinize your vehicle down to the components installed and identify if its legal/illegal.
Last edited:
"curious" What difference does it make. Either you do all you can to keep your combust engine as low a pollution emitter designed. Or you don't!
If one can break the law, without being cough or fear of penalty. Should they?
Installed the full playground and play Gen 2 kit and the corresponding codes went away, but it immediately threw a P0136 (o2 sensor) code. I replaced that sensor but the code is still showing… are there any overlapping issues that may cause a o2 sensor code?
Oops
hewitttech
SAIS Bypass Kit
The Gen2 kit should have nothing to do with an O2 Sensor code. If this was a Gen2-3V kit where you have to wire the 3 wire whip of the harness directly into the ECM, you may have damaged another wire or possible wired into the wrong wires. Please contact us directly with pictures of your installation. If this was a Gen2-3V installation we particularly want to see the bare wire connections at the ECM where we can very clearly see each wire, the factory wire and the terminal of the connector it goes to.
Hello, so I put the bypass in, and it worked for a bit, and then it seemed to crap out. I am meticulous in my care, with only 155K, but I live in a rust belt. So today my LX 470 was carted of to the mechanic with an AHC leak for either a repair or a Delete. I chose NOT to do the repair as the cost was expensive for the parts, and labor here is crazy... I think they quoted me $4K in 2024. I do do minor maintenance myself. To replace the parts you have to take off the manifold etc. What i now do is on days below 32 degrees in the morning i use my remote start or start the car with the key, let it run for 10 minutes and then shut off again and restart and drive. This fools the system, and I have NOT had the car go into limp mode since 2024. It's a workaround, but it's solid. Because it does nothing functionally for the vheicle the repair made no sense. Lemme know if you have any other questions and good luck.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
Yes, the Hewitt kit is what you want. Which kit you need depends on the code you’re getting. If you have any questions at all on which one will work best, don’t hesitate to email or give them a call. Their customer service is outstanding. I’ve been running the regular plug and play kit for mine and it works great.
Most of the plug-and-play kits involve splicing into the MAF wiring. Either it's done by cutting the MAF wiring directly or though a secondary pigtail that goes between the OEM MAF connector and the MAF. For awhile, I had a slyfox75 kit from eBay (manual splice), then a no-splice Hewitt kit. Both kits resulted in problems with my MAF acting strangely - usually by under-estimating flow, causing my fuel trims to run high and ultimately causing my engine to run lean in closed-loop mode. For the Hewitt kit in particular, I isolated the problem to their plug-and-play connectors (as it adds two new connectors into the MAF circuit, I think one of the connectors had a problem internally and added additional resistance to the MAF circuit). The Hewitt kit also has some un-covered, soldered connections inside their MAF pigtail.
The solution I came up with was to DIY my own bypass using this guide, but with some modifications. To have a better connections, I spliced a 8-pin Deutsch connector onto the OEM MAF wiring, then used a new MAF pigtail from Ballanger Motorsports, and a very robust Hella relay with a resistor soldered in to make it all work. This has fewer connections than the aftermarket kits and the connections it has are better connections (hard to beat a Deutsch connector). And if it has problems, it can easily be removed and replaced. I'm now not having MAF problems anymore and my rig runs awesome.
The solution I came up with was to DIY my own bypass using this guide, but with some modifications. To have a better connections, I spliced a 8-pin Deutsch connector onto the OEM MAF wiring, then used a new MAF pigtail from Ballanger Motorsports, and a very robust Hella relay with a resistor soldered in to make it all work. This has fewer connections than the aftermarket kits and the connections it has are better connections (hard to beat a Deutsch connector). And if it has problems, it can easily be removed and replaced. I'm now not having MAF problems anymore and my rig runs awesome.
Why not stay legal and reduce pollution during warm-up as designed. With a permanent fix, to the number one failure point, the filter!
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW!
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
IMO the filter is the way to go to preemptively address a functioning SAIS. Had I known about the filter I would have done that on my rig prior to removing most of the SAIS when I replaced the starter over 5 years ago.
Regarding the MAF, I can't speak for the 100 series VVTI, but over in the GX470 section, many of us have had MAF-related issues that are often intermittent and/or hard to diagnose. The MAF connector itself seems to be brittle and failure prone, which is not unexpected as the GX470 MAF connectors are between 17 and 21 years old. If the OEM MAF connector is already somewhat damaged, adding two additional connectors to the circuit can add in more resistance and throw off the MAF (although, for my rig it's only resulted in the worst at it being down on power - has certainly never caused stalls, damaged cylinder walls, etc). The simple act of unplugging the OEM MAF connector to plug in a SAIS bypass may in itself damage the OEM MAF connector. The apparent over-sensitivity to the MAF in the 2UZ-FE is why I do not recommend the plug-and-play SAIS bypasses. DIY'ing one like I did with a Deutsch connector into the OEM harness and a new MAF connector is a better solution to reliably bypass the SAIS.
Regarding the MAF, I can't speak for the 100 series VVTI, but over in the GX470 section, many of us have had MAF-related issues that are often intermittent and/or hard to diagnose. The MAF connector itself seems to be brittle and failure prone, which is not unexpected as the GX470 MAF connectors are between 17 and 21 years old. If the OEM MAF connector is already somewhat damaged, adding two additional connectors to the circuit can add in more resistance and throw off the MAF (although, for my rig it's only resulted in the worst at it being down on power - has certainly never caused stalls, damaged cylinder walls, etc). The simple act of unplugging the OEM MAF connector to plug in a SAIS bypass may in itself damage the OEM MAF connector. The apparent over-sensitivity to the MAF in the 2UZ-FE is why I do not recommend the plug-and-play SAIS bypasses. DIY'ing one like I did with a Deutsch connector into the OEM harness and a new MAF connector is a better solution to reliably bypass the SAIS.
Last edited: