06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (2 Viewers)

[jerryb]

I went from the cheaper version to the 400$ one. It's working great no problems. Thousands of miles this month alone on it.

I added a 3 position connector, a cheapie delphi gt150 I believe, 3 position with seals as a go between at the ecu to the main 3 wire bundle that comes in from the engine bay going to the sai driver


I don't know why I would ever remove it or swap it except for the next owner and emissions something, but depinning and pulling that end though to the engine side is better than cutting a solder joint and redoing the ends left at the ecu.
IF I remember right, you wouldn't need a jumper to go back to stock as those three wires are inline. (at the ecu)

not having those air trains to the exhaust manifold or the valves in the way of the starter/bell housing bolts/wire harnesses is gold.

 

[jtb517]

@hewitttech

Are Gen II kits sold out for the LX?

 

[hewitttech]

@hewitttech

Are Gen II kits sold out for the LX?

@hewitttech

Are Gen II kits sold out for the LX?

Better late than never, sorry.. Everything is currently in stock. If you have a 470 you need to go to the G2-3V to find it. For a 570 it is just the G2.
We hope to have our new site up and running soon! Should make it a lot easier to find and figure out what you need.

 

[2001LCand200647]

FYI this system was added to ALL 2UZ's when vvt-i was. Most common cause for failure is water ingestion.

I had this happen on my 2006 LX470
About 126k in… kept resetting using my ODB reader - eventually couldn’t reset and dealer charged $2300 to “fix” the problem- wish I would have know about SAIS bypass be Hewitt for $190 …..

 

[2001LC]

I'm work on determining cause of A.I. (SAIS) CEL or failure, along with a modification to permanently correct. Meaning we can keep A.I. system intacted and working as designed, without need for block off. It would be for those wishing to keep street legal. Which block-off of A.I. is for off-road use only. As such, I nor any shop can install block-off for street vehicle use.

I do believe I've come up with solution. One that not only solves most A.I. issues, but most CAT failures associated with A.I. DTC in VVT 4.7L.

I'm looking for VVT 4.7L that have CAT failures and had at some point A.I. CEL (DTC). Anyone with these please DM (PM) me.

 

[golfer2000]

I'm work on determining cause of A.I. (SAIS) CEL or failure, along with a modification to permanently correct. Meaning we can keep A.I. system intacted and working as designed, without need for block off. It would be for those wishing to keep street legal. Which block-off of A.I. is for off-road use only. As such, I nor any shop can install block-off for street vehicle use.

I do believe I've come up with solution. One that not only solves most A.I. issues, but most CAT failures associated with A.I. DTC in VVT 4.7L.

I'm looking for VVT 4.7L that have CAT failures and had at some point A.I. CEL (DTC). Anyone with these please DM (PM) me.

That would be interesting to see your resolution. I'll be following closely.

 

[2001LC]

I'd disclose now, as I have done to one I own. But I do not want to muddy the waters, as to data or anecdotal evidence I'm looking for.

I will one devote a thread to this.

 

[hewitttech]

I went from the cheaper version to the 400$ one. It's working great no problems. Thousands of miles this month alone on it.

I added a 3 position connector, a cheapie delphi gt150 I believe, 3 position with seals as a go between at the ecu to the main 3 wire bundle that comes in from the engine bay going to the sai driver


I don't know why I would ever remove it or swap it except for the next owner and emissions something, but depinning and pulling that end though to the engine side is better than cutting a solder joint and redoing the ends left at the ecu.
IF I remember right, you wouldn't need a jumper to go back to stock as those three wires are inline. (at the ecu)

not having those air trains to the exhaust manifold or the valves in the way of the starter/bell housing bolts/wire harnesses is gold.

I somehow missed this post. The kit comes with Scotchlok connectors that do not cut the wires you are tapping into for a Gen2-3v installation that can easily be removed if needed.

It is recommended to solder them but you would still not cut the ECM wires. To remove you would just cut the Gen2-3V wires off the factory wires and reinstate. No reason to have to cut and solder back together.

 

[kwon-offroad]

I'm work on determining cause of A.I. (SAIS) CEL or failure, along with a modification to permanently correct. Meaning we can keep A.I. system intacted and working as designed, without need for block off. It would be for those wishing to keep street legal. Which block-off of A.I. is for off-road use only. As such, I nor any shop can install block-off for street vehicle use.

I do believe I've come up with solution. One that not only solves most A.I. issues, but most CAT failures associated with A.I. DTC in VVT 4.7L.

I'm looking for VVT 4.7L that have CAT failures and had at some point A.I. CEL (DTC). Anyone with these please DM (PM) me.

Keep mud posted. I just ordered the plug kit proactively. But a perm solution peaks my interest more than this kit.

 

[jerryb]

I somehow missed this post. The kit comes with Scotchlok connectors that do not cut the wires you are tapping into for a Gen2-3v installation that can easily be removed if needed.

It is recommended to solder them but you would still not cut the ECM wires. To remove you would just cut the Gen2-3V wires off the factory wires and reinstate. No reason to have to cut and solder back together.

truth be told I copied the same way the URD 02 calibrator has to be wired at the ecu, for my own peace of mind and simplicity.
When this engine and harness come out again it's a plug like the other 7 or 8 and I don't have to think about line up or redoing it, or cutting more wire.
I know it's a personal preference and probably not the easiest.

 

[2001LC]

Keep mud posted. I just ordered the plug kit proactively. But a perm solution peaks my interest more than this kit.

I will! It's clean, simple and cheap. Just takes a little wrenching skills (2 banana) and a few off the shelf parts.

 

[nnnnnate]

I bought a commuter a few months ago to try and alleviate some wear and tear on the LX and it seems there is some enmity for this decision. I got the P0418 and P2445 Monday while driving the neighborhood making some quick deliveries with the associated limp mode. I cleared the codes and drove it to work today and see just the P0418 is back without limp. Super excited to have more issues on top of the vapor locking.

I'm supposed to be taking the LX camping first thing tomorrow morning and this new issue has me second guessing that decision which is unfortunate.

 

[jerryb]

it's not all bad. Audi and bmw carried on the tradition of putting fast spinning wheels in the V. Imagine if you needed a new turbo.
Anything other than a delete is going to fail again.

 

[hewitttech]

I bought a commuter a few months ago to try and alleviate some wear and tear on the LX and it seems there is some enmity for this decision. I got the P0418 and P2445 Monday while driving the neighborhood making some quick deliveries with the associated limp mode. I cleared the codes and drove it to work today and see just the P0418 is back without limp. Super excited to have more issues on top of the vapor locking.

I'm supposed to be taking the LX camping first thing tomorrow morning and this new issue has me second guessing that decision which is unfortunate.

For your particular vehicle configuration, as long as the P0418 code remains on, the system will not try to operate and you should stay out of limp mode for your trip. 99% of the time the P0418 code is the air pump motor that has open circuited itself. It is the normal progression for a three valve system, noise, codes and then pump motor failure. If you want to take care of it when you get back, the V36HPPP kit (2005-2007) or the Gen2-3V kit will get you fixed up. If you don't want to ever deal with it again the Gen2-3V kit would be the recommendation even though the installation is just a bit more involved than the V36H or the regular Gen2 kit for the other vehicles.

 

[zipdoa]

it's not all bad. Audi and bmw carried on the tradition of putting fast spinning wheels in the V. Imagine if you needed a new turbo.
Anything other than a delete is going to fail again.

Well, to be fair this 'turbo in the V' thing didn't happen till mid-late 2010's.

2.7T, despite its 'nuances', is probably the best VAG turbo motor, save for the 2.2L Inline-5 Turbos (AAN, ABY, etc). I've heard good things about the TT-RS I5 turbo as well.

 

[M3gilly]

Does anyone know the part number of the studs these 10mm nuts screw onto? I installed my Hewitt kit last week and it was smooth sailing. I got the driver side blocking plate installed with hardly any effort. Then went onto the passenger side. Again, first nut spun pretty easily, then the very last 10mm nut on the outer side of the passenger side...no go. I've used everything I can think of to get that damn nut off. No luck. The nut is now rounded. As a last resort, I dremeled two of the sides of the nut down so I might be able to get a little leverage to get the nut off. Still, no luck. I already purchased new 10mm nuts, but have had zero luck finding a definitive part number for the stud these nuts screw onto. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated.

 

[jerryb]

did you try to wrench them out. I have unused new ones. they only come with new exhaust headers, pre installed.
You can find a bolt and nut store in most cities that will have a matching stud.
And of course, you could just buy a regular bolt and use that.
m6 x 1. 30-35mm long would be fine.

 

[jtb517]

I'm work on determining cause of A.I. (SAIS) CEL or failure, along with a modification to permanently correct. Meaning we can keep A.I. system intacted and working as designed, without need for block off. It would be for those wishing to keep street legal. Which block-off of A.I. is for off-road use only. As such, I nor any shop can install block-off for street vehicle use.

I do believe I've come up with solution. One that not only solves most A.I. issues, but most CAT failures associated with A.I. DTC in VVT 4.7L.

I'm looking for VVT 4.7L that have CAT failures and had at some point A.I. CEL (DTC). Anyone with these please DM (PM) me.

Any updates on the AI mod?

 

[2001LC]

Yes and no.

I needed to find and did A.I. filter missing:

I've been hesitant to say much about this. As I needed to find other VVT with same symptoms (which I did), without influencing the reports of such. Key was to find no or little filter remaining and possible impeller damage with all codes.


The YES:

I did find another while doing a PPI on a local 07, for a buyer. It did have both A.I. and CAT codes/failure prior to my inspection. The owner reported codes, and that he pulled A.I. pump finding filter gone and impeller blade damaged. He had all codes A.I. & CATS I was looking for. He installed the A.I. block off and spark plug extenders on O2's.

I would like to hear of more of these missing filters and w/codes (DTC) Which would further corroborate my theory of why the failure of both CAT and AI system.

So A.I. pump filter failure, is what I've believed cause issue. Which takes out $7K in parts. i.e A.I system and both CATs:

This non replaceable filter in A.I. pump fails, sending foam rubber into system and through to CATS. Then, unfilter air is also sent through system on each cold start-up. Rigs run on dirt roads or dust condition get damage/codes soonest, after filter failure. Why some filter fail sooner than others, likely has to do with engine temp and more so climate in area of use.

The no:
On my test rig, I do still get P1442 and P1445 and sometimes a P0430 (Bk 2 CAT). P1442 and P1445 switches from one to the other side randomly. These codes are for stuck closed BK 1 and BK 2 A.I switches. Which don't hurt anything, just need clearing codes. Both switches test good (by the book) and work fine. Bk 2 SW, which came up first report, had been changed to non OEM by another shop before I got the rig. I replaced with known good OEM BK 2 A.I SW, but still comes back. TSB states we must replace all A.I components. I'm working on narrowing down cause of BK 1 & 2 SW stuck codes, rather than full replacement of A.I system. I feel either pressure sw on main switch, has some dust blocking it and/or I've issue with exhaust back pressure pulse signal it reads.

CAT codes is likely due to other shop messing up BK 2 O2 and aftermarket CAT, during their install of them ( Worst job I've ever seen, I mean bad). It only comes up once in awhile, after long idling (which OM recommends against). I'll be switching out (one at a time) BK 2 O2, MAF and then CAT if needed. I've been logging fuel trims and temps, and will see if any one part I switching out, makes any difference in fuel trims and CAT BK 2. It a slow processes, that I've not had time for this summer.

What I did to modify:

I installed an easily replaceable A.I. pump filter.

This has been done on other Toyota's engines, just not on the 4.7L VVT that I know of.
The 4.7L VVT is only one in which A.I. pump is under intake manifold. So it's the most difficult modify.

Once manifold off, trick is routing to an easily replaceable filter. With almost no room to do this. I came up with sweet inexpensive rout & filter. My filter is replaceable in 5 seconds now, no tools required.

Only tiny bit of filter remained in A.I Pump of 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT.

Filter that comes with factory A.I. Pump (OEM filter, should look like this one)

Just a bit remaining in my test rig, when first inspected after codes and CAT went bad.

Impeller blade also damaged.

I suspect 8 of of 10, in which both A.I. codes and both CATs bad, will find damaged or missing filter. Early stage (just A.I codes) CAT may be okay.

 

[jerryb]

i measure the valve lift at 3.1mm
discuss